JAG1

Dieselfuture is the one who first brought it to my attention of greasing the front hub bearings thru the ABS sensor hole. Now on my third front hub replacement yesterday in a couple years to both my 2nd gens you tend to get tired of the expense and time. I was only in there to replace the brake pads and discovered a rough spot in the wheel hub bearing. The only way to tell was to turn by hand with the wheel, the caliper and rotor off because just a few weeks earlier I had checked for looseness in the wheels, so on I went with a new Timken hub. This time they got me for over 300 bucks because I needed one right away to be up and running by Monday. Now before removing the old hub with the rough spot, I removed the ABS sensor and pumped a bit of grease down the hole while turning. Wow that really did improve how smoothly it turned. Thanks Diesel future . I went on to replace it anyhow and found leaking caliper pistons.... on an on! Oh yeah, no I didn't use chicken grease Dripley, I know how you are about animal rights, but I am greasing all four hubs on my trucks from now on.

What a great thread to help us understand how uttery diligent and knowledgeable these great transmission guys are. Just watching the video above is more than amazing and teaches us how important finding the right person is. No I don't think Cluck Transmission will be doing mine in the future.

wil440, need to ship your RV to the states and go camping with us . We got big fish, big mountains, big meals and a pile of BS around the fire. It's great. Unbelievable places to see too

Remember after a few years you will learn to go camping where the cell phone don't work. I have to put it down once in awhile with all the things folks want me for, I get pressured over the responsibilities involved with weather and circumstances. Oregon rains a bit much and sometimes takes away the feeling being your own boss. You will be very busy in not too distant future.

I get some pics up this weekend as I have a lot involved with other people and things happening now. I think the alternator shorted because there may be something wrong with the trucks wiring. That last alternator was almost new, an original Bosch with only 40,000 miles on it. Should have gone 240,000. The batteries are new last April. I will also do the voltage drop test. That B+ cable was newly made only a couple years ago during W-T's educating all of us on reducing the amount of AC ripple throughout the system. Thank you all for the great input....... is good reading. That was the first time I shorted the Alternator,(last April) this time, 5 months later it shorted after using starter, gid heaters, and the seat heaters on high. I wait a few minutes to not use them all at once, giving the batteries a chance to regain some charge. That's when this second Alternator went.

Yep, mine shorted but the fuse is still intact I don't know what to think.

I know about the why of having a fuse or breaker, but why didn't the fuse blow instead of glowing the stud bright white. Something wrong there with a stud an inch from the fuse and the shrink tube is melting and stud lights up like a light bulb yet the fuse did not melt. Can someone explain that for me.?

My second Original alternator just shorted out again. First one was the original ND, original to the truck at 222,000 roughly. Six months later an original Bosch from the other truck with about 30,000 shorted out when I used the grids and then the seat heaters about 7 minutes apart. I saw the 150 amp fuse stud holding the cable, on the battery side of the fuse, glowing bright white the next day and never melted the fuse. Weird. I took the fuse out and don't need one IMHO. Now I'm having rebuilds bench tested for AC ripple and get the Lifetime replacement.... I will become the fastest alternator slinger in the west....

Really cool to see a guy go to town on it like that. You can tell he's done a lot of them.

I will John as I need to give that truck a full warm up again soon. My total weight last time I did it was 10,200. never did the axles seperate though. I used to have Rancho shocks years ago and found the adjustment had corroded and froze up. I have the U bolts on order that Nisaacs said to get and going to make my own one inch spacer block also. It looks like with the added spacer the overloads will be just starting to contact the bump stops. That and letting out 20 lbs of air from the air bags will help. I will let everyone know how it worked out. BTW, I will have to go Tukey huntin' instead so dripley doesn't get winged and missed 50 times before I hit 'em. What great target practice that was last year.

I understand. One thing about this site it will let me know when you post up some further developments or questions. There is one tough spot with the torklifts...... I believe the fuel tank is in the way of getting a nut in there and getting it on the bolt. I think I got it by using a piece of wire on the tip of the bolt and sliding the nut on there. With the tip of my finger I was able to thread it on and wrench it from there.

Nice work Nisaacs. I'm like you I like to do good work. Thank you again so much John, yes the camper is almost always on with that truck and the camper has a winter package with a heated basement and tanks so it is higher up. The truck came with a camper package with front and rear sway bars and two springs on each side for overloads. The shocks are the KYB MonoMax and are still acting like Katooms nightmare being so stiff like riding in a lumber truck when empty. When truck shopping the dealer let me take home a dually, but I just couldn't get used to the extra wheel projecting out in the mirrors. They would do better to build the bed wider, would be handy for hauling and you could get used to driving a larger vehicle instead of a standard size when you might forget about those fenders sticking out.

Is it possible to subtract the weight of the axle/ differentials, wheels and tires because they actually rest on the ground? Not on the suspension? Most likely a moot question. Makes me wonder what type filter is used on this forum to get all the best people around here Thank you all John sometimes I hate running with that camper, but at times when up in remote places I'm so glad I got it. 17 years of white knuckles and learned to take it easy on uncrowded highways and byways is better. Nisaacs, is that spacer a piece of UHMW plastic, as it looks white? Also do you remember where you got the U bolts and how much you torque them down? Thank you so much.

Okay you guys, as usual, got me goin straight....... Yes that is the weight of the camper I gave you and should have said something about how I never weighed the rear and maybe could guesstimate for me. All in all It would have been better if I left the front alone, never putting on a 2 in. level kit and even finally going to a one inch level kit. I do like the ride with the air bags, is better, but sometimes feels like a balloon with side to side motion that likes to take its time going away. That spacer block Nisaacs is fantastic idea and I like the heavier looking 'U bolts' too. I thank you for that bud.

Yeah I have a good source, I find who's got what I want and when I get there I don't look at how much I'm handing over. Works a little bit. I go to Six Robblees in Milwaukie, Oregon. They know how to talk Turkey on price somewhat and stocks Donaldson for oil, air and stock fuel filter. Also stocks Racor. Oil Filter Service in Portland not so much. For my second truck I got lucky because the owners son bought it new and then sold the truck before putting it on his Ford. Even the lowered priced surprised me how much, but I got it anyhow. Racor says their filters are designed different ways, either for the suction side and others for the pressure side.. Years ago I bought the filter mount that you could re prime the truck with that really great hand pump on it. It was wonderful for getting up and running again. I let that one get away on my old 92 truck

It is approx. at 3400 lbs

Yeah you guys they are plumbed separately. Got a one inch lever kit in the front. I been inflating the bags to about 45-55 lbs. Side to side movement is only occasional like hitting a speed bump on a diagonal. That really gets the boat rockin. Also sometimes running down those back roads that aren't graded the best. Just would like it a bit firmer by putting the springs back to work.

Hello everyone, want to wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving especially to MoparMan, IBMobile and W-T for adding so much education to this site. Special mention to Dripley who always provides Chicken. Sorry , I know the rules...... couldn't help it. Anyhow about the overloads, what is the best way to get the overloads back inaction as I have Air Bags on the truck that does not let the overloads help and the air bags sometimes bounce the truck side to side like crazy. I'm thinking bump stop extensions , but don't see how they would last holding on for dear life with just one bolt holding each one. Thanks for any thoughts

I found the screens at the bottom of the fuel module were half clogged too. You know..... after putting on the big pre filter with a clear bowl it only took a short while to see a lot of junk floating around inside my filter. I would drain it off and in a week it would show more contamination. It took about 3 weeks of draining the filter to finally see very little in the bottom and I changed filters at that point. Anyhow screens inside the tank are not the right way to set up a fuel system for a diesel.

I have the Torklift Tie Downs, but my fuel system is inside the frame giving the engine greater chance of getting some warmth to the filter and lift pump. I believe the torklifts are outside the frame. Most of us have our fuel system between or inside the frame for protection from cold and accidents. On the rears I simply hammered in some square tubing either side/ end of the receiver hitch cut it off the right length and drilled a hole for the pin to go thru when I want the TorkLift to slide in. I'm happy to hear you are getting a slide in camper. I have had mine 17 years now.

Nice pics Tractorman. Absolutely beautiful. That is a good place to be considering what's going on in more crowded areas these days.

While talking about the need for a pre filter....I forgot to mention when I purchased my second truck (I have two), it had a 190,000 on it without having a pre filter all those miles. When I removed the factory filter it was like they never cleaned the bowl and never drained it. I had to get the shop vac with a reduced smaller hose taped to the end so it would fit down there as the sediment was stuck to the bottom of the filter bowl. Had to sort of scrape the stuff off the bottom. Now I know all that ran thru the lift pump without a pre filter.

No way to know for sure, but for a way to avoid having to pay for the mechanic they sent it back after having fixed a minor problem and said it works flawlessly. Who knows.... it's just part of the price to keeping these things going. It's good to know you got it right now.

When they have to keep a heading into the waves otherwise they run the possibility of capsizing. On my first get Dodge and both my second gens now, I have a clear bowl on the bottom of the pre filters to be able see water or dirty fuel . They also have a drain for when you drain them off . I have had to drain them several times in the past depending on where I bought fuel. You can see the grim and even sediment building up on the bottom at times, but not very often. Seems like it was worse twenty years ago when I bought my first gen in 1996

Wow cool! Thanks Mike. It's warmed up a bit here as well. Supposed to get hit with another good one tomorrow.