JAG1

Can you tell me why that might be true? Interesting, maybe we are only able buy synthetic stuff, thinking its real. Not to worry.... they'll be coming back, some of them broken.

Yes, it's always best to have options when traveling away from home. Both my trucks got the replaceable fuses because some of the reviews about the breakers said that they were tripping at 75 amps not at the rated 150. I got Blue Sea Systems brand on both my rigs because they are very reliable quality. There are ways to make your own crimper using a bench vise, but I always fill mine with good quality solder and only squeeze them in the bench vise just a little prior to solder. A lot of good guys around here are attending a different school saying not to solder, but always crimp your electrical for a vehicle or boat. Without solder I would get or make a good crimping tool to use in the bench vise.

I wouldn't use a fusible link. What if it blows a million miles from anywhere and there's no breaker to switch back on or a 150 amp fuse to change? To match the lugs to wire look at the package to tell me what size goes with what gauge wire. Often having a striped piece of the cable helps to bring along and test for the right size that way. I'm glad to hear you are getting around to doing this important change on your truck. Looks to me like you got a nice one for sure

I don't see Panda Black Licorice !

Just like a Tank full of beer

them back seats are good for all 5 of us to help you to go get more beer. We can advise you along the way so you don't hit somethin' and help you put on that dumb mask. No it's not a jock strap.

I saw you needed those and thank you for changing out my VP44 I was so afraid or so 'chicken' to do.

They're nice on rain days too when you need air. Just roll windows down a couple inches, no problem.

Yes those are the ones. You will like them.

My 01 does not have the tow mirrors, but the 02 truck does and there is no interferance. Never was a concern when I bought them.

Both my trucks and Moparmans has the in channel Weathertechs. They are expensive but are the best and do not bind up the window operation. Try removing a broken one installed above the window, you know adhesive sticky stuck tape...... it's a bear to remove and does some damage to the paint over time.

Everyone is busy today I guess. I will look at my 02 and have to see what was done. I did this mod to both mine a couple years ago. Give me about 5 mins. Okay, mine has a factory lead coming from the Drivers battery to the PDC. It should be a red cable about 4 gauge cable bolted to the PDC. This is original and so you don't need to add a cable to the PDC If the drivers battery is already hooked up

It's difficult to sell a truck with confusing things like its hashed or left with loose ends. If everything is 'tight and right' you get a better buyer with the better amount of money.

Everyone explains it very well and has their LP wired like it's supposed to be for safety and easy fast starts. Only thing I can add is that the relay is controlled by the ECM, but the power comes directly from the Batteries. If you let the ECM (power) the LP, like the factory harness, you risk frying the ECM when you get a LP failure due to possible electrical overload. Relay allows power from the batteries, but the ECM can still control how much power, for lower starting pressure and when to give full connection for full fuel pressure or shut down when in an accident.

That is something.......I would have had to have at least ten guys look at it to be sure, Good one Mike. He's got a new 1983 Backhoe.

picture of your truck ?

I hope you catch what's doing it. This site has helped a great many of us

I happen to buy a case of 1 qt. bottles of oil that had wide mouth tops. Very handy so I keep reusing them. If under the weather though, I still need a funnel. especially if I cannot stop laughing at chicken jokes.

I have a bleeder hose with a one way check ball that you place into a bottle. Check ball makes it so your not having to open/ close the valve depending on pedal direction. I think in order to properly bleed the system though, it needs pressure to flush out impurities I could be wrong on that. A pressure bleeder is a good idea, much simpler and may go to one since I have two trucks that I take care of and my age makes it a little tougher these days.

I use Dot 4 because it has a higher temperature rating. Man I like the idea of the passive bleed where you just remove the valves and keep the Master cylinder full while it runs out. I wonder though if any water gets settled into the caliper does it need the pump/ pressure to flush it out. Also any air would be in this same question too

I have a reversable oil fluid pump with several size hoses and adapters or tubing for extracting fluids. Does anyone know if I could use suction on each brake bleed valve as an easy peasy way ? The calipers are very prone to sticking and I hate the way the heat will cook the bearing's grease away. It can get expensive in a hurry if you neglect the brake fluid changes on a regular basis.

Any pics of what your garage floor looks like after pouring 2 stroke in bottles all these years?

Any of the two stroke is good as it is usually always the 'low ash'. You should see a slight mileage improvement.

Diesel Kleen is bad news. You essentially reduce the lubricity and increase the score value outside Bosch specs. More slow death to the injection pump. If you got that in there you need double dose of two stroke oil to make up for it. We got guys running only 2 stroke for half million miles and their injectors are always in better shape with less carbon build up than most all other additives. You need 2 stroke because the injection pump was designed for the higher lubricity (more like oil) fuel we used to get.

I was thinking the possibility of a couple old batteries in the fifth wheel. If one has an internal short would cause the alternator to be working hard, at possible full tilt, thereby raising the A/C ripple to run up an elevated amount. When it's hooked up, are there any 12 volt loads going on inside the RV?. The single biggest offender to the electrical system is the B+ charge wire bundled up along side those grounds because AC voltages like to jump around outside the insulation. Then the 4 sensor grounds bundled together in not solder mind you, but some sort of melted plastic coating . Then you have the budget minded way the PCM grounding is done around and to the passenger battery. W-T explains it well why that is wrong. I'm also wondering about the transmission TV cable adjustment. Just mentioning as a possibility even though the W-T rewire work will be a great benefit. I would replace the truck batteries before you get a shorted cell and your poor alternator gets worked to death trying to keep up. Mine got so hot I couldn't go near it, it was smokin'. I had to replace it. New batteries solved my problem