CUMMINSDIESELPWR

once i replace the worn steering box that was worn from 170,000 miles of wear (slop when i got it) and a ton of hard offroading, and put the brace on it it will have zero problems driving straight. the steering box was not worn due to the leveling kit or one ton steering. In fact replacing the stock worn steering linkage and replacing the trakbar has moved all the slop to the steering box.

you can manually adjust them but they have auto adjusters (sprung mechanism) as well to compensate for wear through the life of the brake shoe.

i had a reply but internet died and it didnt post.to answer your question, no the offset didnt have any effect on the alignment when i went in last.

take the tires off then drums, loosen the adjuster wheel on both wheels. then put the drums and tires back on, drive around normally and see if they adjust properly. you can inspect stuff too while you are in there.

possibly the proportioning valve is failing or somehow the adjusting wheels are messing up. Try loosening the adjusting wheels inside the brakedrum and let them reset. if it still does it then i would look at the proportioning valve. It is above the axle driver side linked with a rod. when the rear squats down it will turn the valve arm up giving more braking force to the rear wheels. when empty it is the opposite.

i notice lockup after driving in rain to work. when i leave i barely touch them and they GRAB!!! but after a few lights they clear up.

I have not noticed any issues with this, i will eventually get a adjustable trackbar. ive been running with my level kit on for 2 years now no issues. and yes 12.5 size wide tires are the max you want to go. I have 1/4" spacers all around and i still barely rub at full lock. anything more than 1/4" and you will wear your hubs out faster. this is why im going with 36x10.5. i should only rub the same amount with the spacers in.

nice!

here is mine with 2" level kit 34x12.5 super swampers. they barely rub lock to lock on the lower control arms. I am going to go with 36x10.5 this year and they will clear with a bit of inner fender trimming. 35's will fit though

for me, ive had mine plugged in overnight during winter and ranges from 45f to 5f i still have heat around 5 minutes after starting the beast. it gets to full temp in 10 minutes or around there. so yeah its got to be round 100 or so. I do suggest plugging it in after you park and the engine is still hot, easier to keep it warm then try to warm up the block and water dead cold.

its a thermally reactive viscous fluid couplercolder-thinnerhotter-thicker

ahh yeah the sway bars too, forgot them as i just took mine off front and rear, dont miss em at all.

when i did my spacers, i jacked the truck up and set stands under the frame letting the axle droop then i unhooked the shock tower and removed the shock. i think i unhooked the brake line holders (not sure) basically you removed spring, keeping the driver side on the driver side (dont swap springs) bolt the spacer in, then insert spring and have someone bounce on the axle end to get that little space needed to insert the spring. once in bolt the shock back up and the tower. takes about an hour each side or less. got to remove the tires of course.hope this helps

i should have put that in there, the shaft did slide right in to a point, i then put the nuts on the vp to hold the vp to where i could get the nut on the gear and get it tighted down a bit. i too was sweating my bawlz off not wanting to skip a tooth or drop the key... bad day if that happens.

http://www.lukeslink.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=58&Itemid=56 at the bottom. When i get the 3rd gen trackbar mod i will do this when the stocker bushings wear. Thanks for the write up too!

edit (try to get the gear running the vp to have the keyway in the up position this will make life easier before taking out the vp you can turn the engine over by hand with it out you must hold the gear to the ajoining gear to keep timing)when i replaced my vp i had a friend hold the flashlight to the mirror and direct me to go up down, passenger side or driver side, also where the key on the vp sat in relation to the gear. I would first look myself and try to orientate the vp housing as it would sit on the engine, then orientate the shaft of the vp to where the keyway was. when installing i used both hands and my friend guided me where to move it so it would slip right into the gear and not move the gear. once i got the shaft into the gear slightly i grabbed the gear and held it to the ajoining gear so it wouldnt move as i pushed the shaft into the gear (i know sounds like a ____ novel...)basically once the vp was sitting on the studs i too the nuts and loosly tightened them first. Then i took the shaft nut and put a little torque on the gear to the vp to keep it from moving. then i torqued the nuts on the vp and then torqued the gear nut on the front. then hook up the fuel lines and plug in.If this is what you were looking for i hope it helps, if not need more specific as to what you are asking

hell setting 5 on worn stockers is amazing! i can only imagine what a little bump in hp from the 275's will feel like when i get em and change the clutch!:hyper:

thats gonna be one big damn filter and intercooler!

you should really go to a hardware store, buy a stick of half inch PVC, 4 90deg elbows and some glue, get your vent mod done. ill bet all your problems will be solved. this mod takes literally about 30 minutes to do and is so worth the time and $10...

reading your first post, im inclined to think this is only recreated under power. Also with a pop out of the exhaust could be to one injector being cracked and dumping excessive fuel? Almost might need a audio file so we can hear it. I know on mine, i hear the injector rattle when cruising, when i get on it it goes away and when i coast its gone. but nothing like you are saying with the jackhammer and popping...

could check the injector line isolator hold downs. if they are loose they might rattle. can you recreate this by holding the throttle with your hand in the engine bay? take the cover off and hold it with your finger, listen around for the source.

it will go bang when under a bit of power and taking it out of 4wd. ive done it on accident once, just a loud pop but i knew what it was and i hate doing it. I basically drop it in neutral or let of the gas when putting it in or out of 4wd.

while he has the diff apart he can inspect the ring and pinion to ensure its not damaged. good luck!

almost sounds like you are either overfilled or making oil. what does the dipstick say?

foot switch sounds like a Torque Converter lockup switch. with the results of what happens parked and what it does this sounds like the case. check for aftermarket lift pump, if it doesnt have one get one! get gauges! fuel pressure, pyro, oil, etc etc (life savers!) welcome to the forum! search around and you will find a ton of info, but we are more than happy to answer direct! (wont get flamed like pirate)