CUMMINSDIESELPWR

Omg the starter is super easy to remove rebuild and install!!! i removed the filter assembly for easy access to the top bolt but after i loosened it from underneath.as typical the battery side was burnt away and replacement of them was simple. i took the end off the motor to inspect the brushes and commutator and the look new but used, plenty of life on them!!

funny thing about this post, mine is on its last few starts. the solenoid is now worn out so much that it is sticking "on"... lol and its not wanting to make contact and i am forced to rebuild the solenoid this weekend. hope i can get home tonight lol

ill be playing. its worth a $20 if i win even half of that...

whatever side the crack is on, remove the box, clean the frame up, weld the crack then grind flat and weld a 1/8 plate shaped to the frame and redrill the holes from the other side. it will give you extra strength seeing that the frame was bending enough to crack. put the brace on too and yer good to go.

whenever im out in bad winter weather and i want to get a feel for how much traction is available on the road, i hammer the gass and determine how much slip it causes and how easily. Sometimes its hard to slip, other times it very easy and i reduce speed dictated by the road.Having the exhaust brake plus deflating the tires to about 20psi and being in 4wd equates to AWESOME stopping potential! (proven it many times)I have yet to have an issue utilizing these fundamentals of deflated tires and exhaust brake. Plus having the manyy trans does make a world of difference.I too go out and play sometimes to get a good feel of how my truck reacts to situations. Most of the time i find just letting off the skinny pedal corrects most of the issues found while driving on crappy roads.

so with all this wood you all play with, what do you use the chips and dust for? put it to good use at all?

Welcome Moby! you will be treated well here so there are no dumb questions. Education will save you time and money and thats what we are all here for!Im not a 3rd gen man, so i am limited on your rig. I do have a question though, was this issue abrupt or gradual?

welcome tony!

one thing to note, overpressuring will cause leaks and i proved it by accident with my neigbors rig. I installed a raptor150 on his and initially set it at 20 psi mechanical gauge and it ran perfect. I did tell him we need to readjust once the unit breaks in but he told me he was leaking fuel 3 weeks after the install. I tested the pressure and the startup pressure was 35psi!!! idled at 28ish.this was causing fuel to push past the orings/seals on the fuel in water relief drain lever and drip on his axle.i adjusted it back down to 20 psi idle and no more leaking. Plus the small bolts holding that lever to the filter can were a bit loose so i tightened them as well.no more leaks!

ill end up p-pumping

win!

good point mike, didnt know if he drove it or not yet.

you shouldnt have any stumble all the way to redline. mine doesnt.

man i bet that thing is noisy!

what is high rpm? i can rev mine to the red portion and have no stumble.

i didnt catch the driveline part of his post. What bjytech stated is true, another thing to to consider is the wear on the yoke shaft. The original seal will wear a groove in the yoke shaft where this seal sits and when you replace it, if the new seal sits in the same spot it will leak if the groove is severe. I had mine done a few months ago and the new seal sat ahead of the old wear groove and no leaks.if the breather hose isnt the issue, you will probably need to have the yoke pulled off and inspected. if bad enough it will need replaced with another seal. Before all this too you can check for pinion housing cracks that could be causing the leak. hopeully this isnt the case.good luck and post if ya need anything!

which seal. there are 3 plus diff cover.

welcome from colorado!

oh man this is good stuff! cant say she is "high" anymore being 6' under...

i take it you removed the head and found it? hows the piston crown look?

i got walmart batteries, havent had any issues for a year and half now!

like dripley said, small flathead and gently pop it out. it doesnt take much to pop em out. While you have it out and replace the oring, might as well scotchbright both ends of the tube and the line end feeding the tube. This will ensure you dont have to take it back apart to clean them after you see them weeping still...BEFORE YOU TAKE THEM APART, clean the head with a high pressure wand or blow all the crap off the head (dust dirt etc etc) dont let anything fall into the tube hole.

man you guys sure do like wood....remind me to keep my lumber away from y'all...