CUMMINSDIESELPWR

man! this guy doesnt seem to understand the needs of a vehicle period! id still push to get a new vp as your current one may be damaged even after showing no codes.i had a recent friend who isnt anymore wanting to sue me cause he said i caused is garage door to fail further. long story short he bought a house with an existing damaged garage door and continued to use it. i just was at the wrong place at the wrong time when i "looked" at it and touched it with my hands (not attempting to fix it) and he blames it on me... so one less friend on my list.

since i do a lot of offeoading my trackbar bolt wallered out the hole on te axle side and it had play in it. so i took a chunk of 5/8" steel, stuck it in the box where the trackbar sits in and no more movement on that side. some weld a heavy duty thick washer to the hole to do the same. im still going to do the 3rd gen trackbar upgrade next year. plus new steering box and pump. the steering brace took a lot of slack out of the worn sector shaft movement and im very pleased with it!

well ive replaced everything with 1 ton components, new trackbar, steering box brace. it was after i hit a pile of what i thought was snow was actually ice and it tweeked the balljoints plus took the alignment off a bit. i may have bent the hub itself so i got some work to do... my fault lol

balljoints are my suspicion as i have a vibe on left tire and the balljoints are going on that side.

i got same fluid to do my tranny this weekend, enough to overfill above 6th gear

Quite interesting! Maybe someone can be a guinea pig when they get this?

AHHHHHH...... So now i have a brand new clutch!!! i spent a few hours friday after work taking everything off the rig so all we needed to remove was the crossmember and tranny. Saturday my friend came over and he commanded the jack and i did the work, we got the tranny moved back and i commenced removal of flywheel to get machined. as i inspected the flywheel i noticed a couple high hotspots but zero cracks!!! So we got it machined for $25 and had lunch. Then back to the grind. I was able to replace the rear main with a bit of fuss taking the old one out (was in there nice and good) then placed the new one in dry and surfaces cleaned on the crank flange and housing surface. then put the flywheel back on, torqued the bolts to 50ft-lb then to 100ft-lb then inserted the pilot bearing (was in the freezer a bit to make it easy). I cleaned up all the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate then installed the clutch and plate, torqued evenly in star fashion to 22ft-lb. i got the clutch nicely aligned and started to put the tranny back and after attempting to get it mated it had shifted on the tranny jack and almost was about to fall off... but we rescued it and i changed tactics. I stuck it in gear, put it in 4wd, and manipulated the front shaft flange to line the splines up and it popped in quick, then getting it aligned to the pilot bearing was a pain but without forcing it we got it in and the guide pins lined right up and i was able to bolt it together. i got finished at 9 pm buttoning it all up. No leaks, drives real damn nice and shifts like a dream! The old throw out bearing had the grease all dried up from clutch dust and made it hard to move on the shaft but i properly regreased the blood groove on the new bearing and the shaft as well. So all in all i have a new... clutch throw out bearing pilot bearing throw out arm and pivot ball flywheel machined nicely and in excellent condition its much easier to get into gear now that the clutch doesnt drag from the throwout bearing sticking and it you are precise you can get moving without the grabbiness most complain about. clutch purchased from Diesel Auto Power http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/valair%20kev-fslash-kev%20nmu70279-05.htm here are the specs.. 13.00" x 1.375" Performance Replacement Kevlar/ Kevlar Buttons HD Spring Hub Rated @ 450HP / 950 ft lbs Torque 3400# Pressure Plate Kit includes: Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, Pilot Bearing and Alignment Tool. Valair rated them to @ 500HP / 1000 ft lbs Torque

lmao! naw its the idiots that do 35 in a 65 in the left lane and hover next to the other idiot doing the same speed. or people doing way below the limit in left lane and nobody is in right lane... but yes a race it will be in idaho...

once i get my clutch replaced ill be doing a smoke switch, i cant smoke right now as the power that pours out slips the clutch...but i smoke out anyone draggin anchor when there is no need... especially in the left lane.

i just ordered 2 energizer solar lanterns. this will go with my 4 energizer dynamo/solar led flashlights

i have a bunch of the energizer solar/dynamo led flashlights, they are nice!!!

i did a test on this, at a certain distance the rf DB level is only so much and it will only trigger the dome light so you can see your vehicle from a distance but keep it locked. it will only unlock at a certain proximity so only you can get into the vehicle. Safety i guess. i could be wrong...

different solder composition?

i sit stand on my front bumper and basically bend over to work on the engine. no hurt tummy for me!

one problem i find is inflation keeps going up but the raises are meager. last year i got a 3% raise which equates to .85 cents. how is that able to keep up with increase of taxes, cost of living etc etc...the system needs an overhaul with all these companies skimping on everything just to make a measly few BILLION dollars in profits while the working man in the company is scraping by...

you do have a valid point but the heat in summer would change the solders composition to a crystalline structure more prone to breaking during the temp swings. solder becomes "brittle"

you are correct and it can be done but the key is getting the heat pulled directly off the board on the pump, and to do this most effectively you must fill the space with something thermally conductive/non electrically conductive otherwise you are only going to cool off the cover and nothing more.

Here is my proposal on how to mitigate thermal soak on the vp after shutdown. As Dripley and Katoom have stated the issue is heat soak after the engine is shut down. I have much experience in passive, active CPU cooling from building computers in the range of $3000 or more just for the case and guts, so cooling is vital. My idea is to get a high thermal conductive/non electrically conductive resin or paste and directly inject it into the housing under ther cover where the FPCM is. this will ensure a direct thermal link from the hot board to the cover directly to the heat sink. This heat sink can be a machined piece of copper (best) with high surface area to radiate heat, and a flat surface covering the entire FPCM cover. Doing just like a cpu, put thermal compund between the heatsink and the cover, secure it, toss a fan on it being ran off the batteries and either a timer or thermal switch to kill the power when it has cooled sufficiently. Taking the cover off and drilling a small hole on one top corner, and one on the opposite bottom corner then replace the cover, using a syringe or other method inject the thermal compund into the cavity where the board resides. this will ensure no bubbles are there and full contact is made to the cover. assemble and you are good to go. I will in time try this and see how it goes. It can be on when the truck is running, and with a solar charger to the batteries run after shutdown. here is a prime example of resin that can be used. however it may become permanent and may void warranty but if the vp lives for a loooong time, you can save up for a new one... http://www.epoxies.com/therm.htm http://www.epoxies.com/tech/50-3150RFR.pdf thoughts?

are you sure its not fuel from rear banjo bolt pulling caked on oil/grease down with it? just a thought

lol its mine u cant have it!!

this one would fit then, just would need to take the flywheel in to be resurfaced and hope its still good... http://www.dieselautopower.com/category_s/460.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=460&show=100&page=1

So gents, i am in need of figuring out which clutch to purchase, mainly power wise. My dilemma is i only have a ballpark of the max my truck puts out but i dont want to be way over or way under and end up purchasing a clutch that is insufficient.I want to get a complete kit, clutch and flywheel as i think the original flywheel is garbage.All i have done is rv275's, bhaf, edge juice w/attitude. everything else stock and will stay that way. (truck has plenty of power.I rarely tow, rarely "get on it", dont pull nor race.I cant get an estimate on power as the current clutch slips with ease in setting 1 now, so im stuck.on the power rating they put on clutches, is that off the engine or to the ground?I figure off the engine im doing ~395hp ~800 torque. would this be a correct guesstimate? to the tires... i dunno...with this i should go with a clutch capable of handling 400hp 800 tqe. I am going with either Valair or South bend.thoughts?also are any of the vendors able to supply a member or veteran discount?

i had an idea of doing something like this and have a separate battery hooked to a dashboard solar charger constantly hooked up. they dont draw much power and i think would work.but then you need to ensure there is some kind of medium making contact from the board to the heatsink face

i think mike nailed it for me, outside of the worn turbo i have been driving on the bottom of the engine trying to be easy on it with worn injectors. now if i drive it over 1500 rpm above 1st gear it doesnt smoke as much and i drive it further into the gear and that keeps the next gear in optimal range and minimal/normal smoke.now to get that damn clutch so i can use all that power under the hood... anyone got money i can have? lol

well look also with the nozzle, you have a mated surface hammering on another mated surface with a specific spring pressure millions of time through its life, it will wear and crack or break.my engine would have good days and bad days concerning noise from the injectors, when you got on the gas it was noisy but when you let off and coasted still in gear the noise all went away and valve train was quiet. this pointed directly at injector noise to me.