CUMMINSDIESELPWR

partial melt down is my thought as well, one injector crapped out, dumped fuel, got a piston crown hot and goobered it up. now that piston is unhappy

I did the center carrier bearing replacement on my rig, you will need to take it somewhere to have the new one pressed on and the old one pressed off. you cant do this at home, took a 12T press and almost stalled it. replacing ujoints is easy, just take your time and do it right. but you could take it all to a shop and they can knock it out for ya. either way it has to go to a shop as the carrier bearing needs to be pressed off. write up below http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/244-driveshaft-center-carrier-bearing

wonder if his oil vent mod kept the oil from draining...?

more info on this. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2002/09-002-02.htm

ive been watching DAP site for their rv275's and still waiting for them to get them in stock. I called and asked how they can sell them so cheap, after they get the cores they refund $100 back to you and they take the cores, rebuild them and make the money off of them. These were for brand new genuine bosch rv275's and that was enough for me to wait. $500+ for a set when i can get them for half that... no brainer.

Gotta laugh at it, $30 of fuel and a new sensor is better than a new engine!Good ya got it figured out!

its an easy repair, the top nut break loose from the bottom then go in from the top of the engine compartment, take the 2 bolts off the filter housing and push it out the way, full access to the top bolt with a ratchet!!!when installing, put the 2 bottom bolts in first to hold the starter then put the top bolt in, get it just finger tight to seat the starter, then tighten the bottom bolts then the top and put the filter housing back on. DONE! took me about an hour taking my time.

this is very interesting. Almost sounds like an electronic governor kicking in... just a thought in the dark.

read more on this, sounds either cracked injector nozzles or they are sticking. either way not cheap. but the common rail injectors are known for problems.

i would suggest before replacing the vp44, do all the fuel mods needed to upgrade, then try reset the APPS. (accelerator pedal position sensor) When my vp went out the door i could still rev to the limiter (for testing) so if he has no codes could possibly be the APPS or its blocked to where the pedal isnt going all the way down.Would hate to see someone replace a VP when it could have been something else. VP should be last IMO on this situation.Thoughts anyone?

wtf?!?!?!?! Hahahahah

oohhh got some young blood up in here! Welcome!!! and remember there are no stupid questions here, so ask away!

oh since its the front seal, should be easy. take the damper off and gear cover off, replace it and slap it all back together (if im thinking correctly)

I joined in the ARMY as an MSE operator (mobile subscriber equipment, front line communications) I have pretty much been doing mobile communications since. I currently work for the #2 carrier in the country. But they way they are running the business into the ground with micromanaging metrics, i have a 5 year plan to retire. Im done working for idiots.I build powerful gaming rigs (computers) for fun, i can fix most anything electrical or electronic, electromechanical, to component levels. Mechanic by hobby since 5 years old, bikes, trucks, cars, engines..i invent stuff as well and currently working on a few things for cruisers.

22 degrees is the fluid level to the vent. anything past that and it will puke. I went down a 55-50 deg slope and i lost almost a gallon of oil before the mod. luckily i had my edge monitor scream at me and shutdown at 10psi oil. the amount i lost cause the engine to lose prime for a second and lost pressure but thankfully not under load. the next day i did the mod and never had a problem since.

hex0rz, you are still better off going into a service as you will get the training and experience you need without paying for it financially. in the civilian world you will payy out the arse with no gurantee of having a chance of getting a job. I went in with a GED and now have over 18 years mobile communications experience with many businesses. I make good money and without the army i wouldnt be here.If you can tough it out and deal with it, go for it! You cant go wrong.

My brother medically retired from the AF after 5 tours of duty, 3 in iraq 2 in afghanistan, has injuries from them. I will put it to you this way, with his proof of medical problems they still tried to give him the boot because he couldnt pass a pt test with KNOWN lung injuries. They also tried many things to get him in trouble so that he would be ineligable for benefits. The AF is run like a poorly run company, Physical Training seems to be priority over the actual job you do and they micromanage it very bad.You are better off going to the navy. I could go on and on how long it took him to get medically retired (over 2 years) and how much stuff they drug him through to make it hard, cause they knew he was going to get paid when he got out.Todays military is just like any other business, they are running it into the ground.-me Army vet.

from what i have read on replacing the seal on the rear of the engine, after removing everything to get to the seal, many have used a small drill bit to put a small hole at 9 and 3 o'clock and put small metal screws in these holes to remove old seal as it is a b!tch to remove and you DONT want to damage the surfaces. once it is removed clean everything up nicely inspect for surface defects and if none you put the "install collar and seal" on the crank itself then using the supplied tool drive it in to the proper depth. then you remove the install collar (prevents damage to seal face) and you are good to go. As far as a speedy sleeve i have no info on it but if the crank surface isnt grooved you shouldnt need one as the new seal may sit in a different spot and provide a good seal. hope this helps! http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=202854

making that list would be the only alternative if you are in bad reception area or no ability to see the interwebz with a phone.Im for a list private to registered users. i was on a forum before and that is what we did, just made a list and people printed it out. worked great!

i bought the full kit, solenoid rebuild and brush rebuild. would rather have done it all at one time if needed but looks like i will have a brush set for when its needed now!

ive had this installed for 2 years now and have gone down some EXTREME downslopes with ZERO oil leakage. I have had no issues to think of, no problems, no smells, nothing. I do plan to integrate a 1 liter bottle onto the end of the down tube with holes in it (to vent pressure) so i can catch any vapor drips (very far and few between) but dont want to dirty up a driveway. DO IT it will save your engine on downslopes greater than 22deg angle and keep your radiator clean.

i came home from work one winter, had shorts and tshirt on and just pulled to park on the street. I noticed a cop up the road and thought nothing of it. Well i get out, he pulls up to me and tells me to put hands on head and get on the ground. (remember its like 30 out..) He cuffs me, leans me on the car and starts asking me questions...Where you coming from?workWhen?Just now, go feel the truck its still hot!what were you doing at this time and that time...?WORK....!long story short they were looking for a guy who fit my description down to the color of shirt that was exposing himself to people on the first floor windows...by this time im shaking cold and he asks me why im shaking.... i said its FREAKING COLD OUT...i wasnt to happy but they have a job to do here and there...

the brush rebuild kit i will hang onto for when it needs a total overhaul. but it is in great shape! I wouldnt have known about the larry b kit or be prepped for the work without this site! Thanks Mike!

props to larry b's rebuild kit i will use the brush rebuild later when it needs it!