CUMMINSDIESELPWR

thanks mike, ill take it to a place and flush it and properly service it

So ive noticed the past 2 summers this occuring.i start the truck and its hot outside, i turn the ac on max setting and when it kicks in it sounds like the compressor clutch explodes and the engine surges badly. after that its fine until the truck sits for a while and it all cools down.in the winter it doesnt do this.when i have the ac on before i turn the engine over it doesnt do this as its already engaged...ill check the pressure the pressures this weekend to ensure its not overfilled, not sure if the clutch pack is worn out causing the extreme engagement after engine is running.all the while the ac is nice and cold, its just the clutch on the compressor hammers into action and i dont want to destroy something...thoughts?

Rogan,I recently had the same findings as you with my rig. It was upwards of 175,XXX miles and the stock original injectors were noisy as hell, i could hear a couple hitting a bit harder then the rest (injector knock) and i started seeing black smoke here and there when i shouldnt see any (leaking injector) My economy went down, efficiency went down, response went down, just basically heading south overall.i wasnt able to hit over say 24 psi on the turbo with the worn injectors either, with the new ones i can hit 29 easily on setting 5 if the clutch will hold... but the turbo is very worn and a rebuild is in order.When i replaced them it all went away. and the truck drives so much quieter and more responsive, in fact i have to relearn how to drive it as i was taking it easy with worn injectors and i need to drive it like its fine and no issues. I do however need to rebuild the worn turbo and replace the stock clutch, as anything over stock setting spins the clutch....

i need to check and ensure the waste gate isnt stuck open slightly

So i recently installed some new rv275's and love them. However i need to rebuild or replace the turbo as i have high temps most of the time cruising at 65 no load or towing. I do need to test for air leaks but i am pretty sure i dont have any. At stock setting it will run 700-800 any setting above stock and im easily hitting 900+ when i step into the skinny pedal. on setting 5 it will make the turbo sing and barely the 30 psi i have it set for defuel but i can easily get it over 1200F if i want but dont like it. I do get a lot of smoke on the bottom end of each gear but once the turbo is spooled its not bad if any at all. the lag on the stocker is long though... It is stock turbo, BHAF, it does have a bit of radial play, no front to back shaft play and has never been off the truck in 175,000 original miles. Does anyone have a stock HX35 they want to sell of give away? Would it be better to upgrade to a garrett turbo http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/garrett/759361-0002.htm i have an exhaust brake that fits to the stock downpipe, not sure if it will work with a different turbo. i dont want to lose it. what say ye oh wise men of the cummins world? Rebuild stock turbo? $80 replace with garrett? $2000 upgrade impeller or compressor wheel? $ ??

$3.56 over at my place

took me 5 hours of hammering, cussing, beating on it, pb blaster, propane torch and it finally came out, ruined though but it came out. it was my 4th one and damn that thing didnt want to come out.

i had the injector tubes out about 4 months ago to replace the orings so mine were already good to go. i did pull the lines totally off as i dont like to "bend them out of the way". i still inspected the injector tubes for any defects. If you are getting orings with the injectors you are best to change them out as if they are stock and you disturb them they will start to pee on ya. Clean the injector tubes and put the orings on DRY ( i did them dry and still have no leaks) I have recently found a leak on the backside of the block, i will have to crawl under to find where its coming from, might be the banjo on the back of the head came loose. its a small weep but it has a drip to it and will clean it up. the lines to the injector tubes are clean and dry so its not there.

exactly

ill do hand calculated when i fill up.

after consideration and limited funds i did go with DAP NEW genuine bosch RV275's they had 5 sets and when i emailed them they had 3 claimed so after me there might not be any left and they dont get them in frequently. im gonna sendthe cores in today to get my core refund which will set me at $269~ on the set.

mine i built by hand with 1/4" 2x4 boxed and welded to the frame with 5/8" plate as the winch mount and .180 2" tube for the bumper. it houses a warn 16.5TI (16,500lb single line pull) total cost for material $75

you can peel the plastidip off that car, linex is permanant and more durable but adds weight.

you will need a inch lb torque wrench. http://www.sears.com/mountain-tools-3-8inch-drive-20-200-in-lbs-torque/p-SP101A12213S3876739001P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 take intake horn/grid heater off take injector lines off pop the injector tubes out leave them hanging bout an inch outside the head take valve cover off, contrary to popular belief you can remove the valve cover without having to scoot it over the heater hoses by popping the cover bolts off and out of the cover, all 5. lift it right off over the rockers. (done this many times no issues plenty of room above the cover) one at a time, take the hold down bolt out and plate off the injector thread a valve cover bolt into the injector leverage it out with a big screwdriver (not much force really) ensure copper washer comes out with it put new injector in the same way, thread valve cover bolt and push it in (takes some force with hand) align it properly put hold down plate on and bolt in finger tight, pop injector tube back into its slot repeat x5 put injector lines back on and torque them down torque the injector hold down plate bolts to 89inch lb use inch lb torque wrench replace valve cover button everything back together crack injector line 1,3,4 cycle fuel pump twice with engine bump then crank 10 seconds look for fuel out of the lines tighten the ones down that have fuel coming out then crank again, should start and you are done. took me about 1.5 hours taking my time. Priming and getting the engine running again literally took about 5 minutes or less from initial crank for prime. small flathead screwdriver to pop out injector tubes sockets and ratchet metric big screwdriver to pry out injectors in/lb torque wrench 19mm combo wrench or 19mm crows foot for injector lines here is the mopar man link for vids, i watched them and i had no questions. You should watch as well so you know what to expect. changing out the vp is harder in my book. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/255-24v-injector-install-video

Well, i finally got around to installing the new RV275's. I will say i had many things that were going downhill with the original stockers as so many things changed after the replacement.Things i noticed after install.Engine is MUCH quieter!No more injector knock on a few cylindersEGT's are better (when foot isnt pushing a hole in the floor)A bit more power (nice to have)Turbo can now reach the defuel setting i have #29psistartup is same no issues thereshutdown is smoother!MPG (that i have calculated to be precise) 20-23mpg @ 65mph!!! (real time lie meter reading)Fuel pressure not jumping around from 14-19 cruising with old injectors, now is stable @17 when cruising with new injectors.so far no leaks!!These are genuine bosch NEW RV275's. I am very pleased with them. :thumbup2::thumbup2:

i have the same tuner, but it is the older model. i dont have this problem. try turning the turbo timer off in the settings.

many offroaders line-x the rocker panels, keeps gouges from happening and scrapes... I am going to do this to my rig someday, just need to find the time. i do want to line-x the bed as im getting surface rust from the damn liner that was installed...

start pulling them one by one and see which does the job of killing the engine

whats the max psi you are hitting?

im not kidding, this sh!t needs to be changed along with our government. its all about greed and its bringing the house of cards down.

i did my driveshaft on my own. remove the rear portion first, then the forward portion that has the carrier bearing. the rear portion slips off the front half just past the carrier bearing. look at the pics, basically in that order of the write up i did.

you could have a relay sticking.

was that a GTO i saw at 46 seconds?I see you have 30 psi, i cant reach any more than 25 maxed out, but then again this is on stock injectors with 179,000 miles. Good thing i got RV725's im gonna install this week!

jyatesmpyou are correct, th 3rd gen you need to reem the knuckles out. I went witht he 98-99 HD option and ive had zero issues with it. it bolted right up and it is much stronger.

gettin a chub just lookin at them turbos! nice job!