CUMMINSDIESELPWR

yeah we dont want our kids eating the vp's computer.... that would be bad...

Welcome to the forum, i dont think there is a person here that isnt great. this place rocks and you will enjoy your stay!

extremely severe injector clatter perhaps?

what rpm does it do this noise at? something is loose somewhere?

ahh ok

Actually, check the center carrier bearing also, i had mine fail and it did the same things you described. I even did a write up on how to replace it. Still good to check out the rear diff as well. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/244-driveshaft-center-carrier-bearing

could there be an injector or two that are sticking until they get hot causing the smoke till warm?

is there fluid in the diff and is it filled to service level? Could be bad pinion bearing or bad ujoint on the pinion yoke.

i was going to remedy this by placing the cruise cable higher up the throttle linkage so its movement will be proportionate to the cruising demand

someone would have to crack the firmware on the computer on top of the vp44 and figure it out.

seems he figured out the hard way that gun powder in a cannon will be lethal. still sad though seemed a bright kid.

puke bottle might be full. I found mopar mans mod long ago and did the $10 mod nuff said!

if it has the limited slip yes, mine doesnt but that is fine, im dropping a detroit locker in it!

if you can adjust the valves, changing the injectors i think would be easier.just got to folow the steps, mainly when putting it all back together, drop in the injectors but dont lock em down then insert injector tubes then install injector lines and get them sorta fully tight then lock down the injectors, then tighten the injector lines down. You will get leaks any other way. While you have the injector tubes out replace the orings (dont lube them), clean the mating surfaces with green scotchbrite pads and replace the banjo bolt sealing washer on the back of the head (sooner or later it will dry up rock hard and leak)when you are done you will need to reprime. crack injector lines 1,3,4 on the head and start turning it over it will hit and miss or just start right up and run rough till you lock down those lines. takes about 5 minutes. then clean up the bit of fuel that spit out. wear glasses or goggles if you have someone turn the key while you are over the engine.

check all grounds also, many forget this part. not jufr from negative terminal but engine to chassis grounding etc etc...

i can hear a couple of my injectors hitting a little harder than the rest due to wear. especially when cold (stock original injectors 169,000 miles)

Our seats never wear out, what are you thinking? :lol::lol: im gonig to a junkyard to get stuff replaced on mine, hope there are some nice seats there...

have you checked the flow valve on the vp return line? if the ball isnt seating it will let the system drain. (not sure if this has been done)

good to hear that they are workin with ya

Direct from blue chip diesel... http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html [h=2]HARD START HOT, LONG CRANK TIMES, and then instantly runs smoothly[/h]Hard start hot is ALWAYS an electrical issue due to heat soak, where the computer gets hot from the latent heat from the engine after the engine is shut off. Cooling the computer by either time or an outside source restores the crystallized and therefore intermittent lead free solder connection(s) on the computer circuit board, and it takes off and starts. To test for this or convince yourself that I am right, try this trick. Run cold water over the computer on the top of the injection pump for a few minutes the next time you know it will be hard to start, and if it starts right up you know you need a new pump.

reman are all that is offered these days. I highly recommend getting one with all the upgrades and a NEW computer. many remans do not come with a new computer and you will end up with a dead pump much sooner than one with a new computer.

my truck starts fine with 20psi prestart lift pimp run hot cold whatever. your vp is toast and it should be warrantied.

good advice dripley, i got lucky that i didnt have to return anything for the right part.

its mostly the trackbar that gets worn, in 3 years im on my 4th. Since i replaced the inverted y to the inverted t one ton steering in feb last year ive had Zero issues to date with the steering linkage. Now that all of that is nice and tight i have to get the steering gear that was worn before i replaced the linkage and do the 3rd gen trakbar upgrade.

ill have to search around on a pc at home to find the link i bought my stuff from and all the part numbers. The new parts dont have provisions for the stabilizer though and ive been running without one for over a year. I do plan on mounting one though as they do help. --- Update to the previous post... ok found the thread and info plus the site i bought from. seems one part is on special order now. http://www.pavementsucks.com/board/thread-new-hub-1-ton-steering-shocks?page=3 MOOG Part #ES2012S (sleeve on the draglink that connects the tie rod end to pitman arm) MOOG Part #DS1456 (Long end of Tie Rod, attaches to Pass knuckle, has hole for Drag Link) MOOG Part #DS1459 (Long end of Drag Link, attaches to Tie Rod) MOOG Part #ES3496 (Short end of Tie Rod, attaches to Driver's knuckle) MOOG Part #ES3527 (Short end of the Drag Link, attaches to Pitman) MOOG Part #ES3498S (Tie Rod End Sleeve near driver knuckle) site i bought it from http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/default.asp i corrected the number for the tie rod end that attaches to the pitman arm. hope thie helps! i would get it all locally frome like advance or something so if something doesnt fit you can readily get the right part. Basically the only thing that is tricky is getting the correct end for the pitman arm. You should be able to use the original if it isnt trashed.