CUMMINSDIESELPWR

when i start up i can hear it but then it fades down as it isnt needed i think through centrfugal forces plus temp demand. i know it does its job as in the summer the temp is stable

my EB makes no abnormal sounds and is a awesome tool to safely slow you down in snow whilat in 4wd! stops faster with more control than regular brakes!

which end of the truck is the noise coming from? exhaust hangers still good?

i experience the pressure drops every time i go to the mountains. summer winter doesnt matter. it always comes back when i return to denver.It also could be a factor that the pressure change is exponential the higher up you go so from sea level to 5000ft in denver will have lets say 2% change but if you were to go from denver to 13,000ft the change will be %10...just a thought. but i will attest that it does happen to me.

swaybar bushings going out? trackbar balljoint worn to the point that it knocking? also could be the axle side on the trackbar, i know my bolt is a bit worn and it causes a knock, both ends are worn...

there is a coolant temp sensor, it shows on your dash :P but as far as it running a parameter to the ecm i am unsure.what does the operating temp get to right now?

possible bad rectifier/regulator on the alternator causing bad power feed? just a thought, also check all grounds for corrosionecm problems?

is your engine getting to proper temp? not sure if i read that in this thread. my neighbor gained 2 mpg when we changed out his 120deg thermostat for a 180 deg thermostat. he went from 13-14 to 16-18 immediately.a cold running diesel wont combust fully and you will have poor mpg. just a thought.

ramhunter9, I had a similar issue with fuel draining on a uphill parking at my house. I tightened everything and still would do it after sitting about 4 days. Well after a while i started noticing a fuel leak. Finally got to it, replaced the injector tube orings, replaced the banjo washers on the back of the head. Fuel leak fixed and no leakdowns anymore. I found the washer for the banjobolt on the back of the head had turned to rock hard plastic instead of rubber, tightening it still didnt fix the leak. I would double check if the washers on the banjo bolt back of the head are good and not petrified (literally) if not already done or replaced. the t-connector for the VP and head return line can be cracked as well or the rubber lines connecting all that stuff in the back could be letting air in. It is a low pressure portion so it might not be spraying fuel to find. If im not mistaken there is a check valve on the return system as well?

I was out wheeling in my rig in the mountains and was on a downhill slope id say about 35deg down or so (standing on floorboards) and my oil pressure dropped fast, luckily my gauges warned me and i shutdown in time to avert engine destruction. Well when i finally leveled out i checked oil level and restarted. I lost a gallon of oil on the downhill slope from the damn vent. (cleaned up what i could find)So later that week i read up on the problem and found that anything over 22deg down slope and oil will run out of the engine. I found Moparmans writeup on it and i performed the mod.$10 later and the 1/2" pvc pipe run over the engine to the backside and i have never lost a drop since. I may get a drop once a week out of it just from condensing vapors but i plan to attach a 1 liter bottle with thread adapter to it for a catch.I have tried the mod out on steep declines since and no issues.

if you accepted the settlement, or signed stuff you may have ruined your chance of further assistance on the issue. It has been mentioned before,if you are not physically made as whole as possible (hand fixed) then an attourney needs to be sought in order to fight to get fixed.its just like someone rear ending you, your neck is messed up and then their insurance sends you a big fat check and something to sign. Well if you accept it and sign you waive your rights to pursue further litigation to get fixed and you are screwed.hope it all works out, workers comp may be different, ive never used it before.

never seen one for colorado

just fyi i dont have the severe symptoms you are talking about

jack one tire up at a time see how freely they spin by hand

full tank, half tank, temps remain good i run a raptor 150 gearotor pump.

install a grid heater bypass switch so you dont end up blowing things up...

its the hydro assist, i know what your talking about, mine feedsback like that if i hit the pedal hard like someone instantly pushes the pedal back at me but it only does it once per hard fast press. possibly the antilock system faulty?

ahh didnt catch that part. , when did you change up fuel additive?

adding a double disk clutch would put extra mass for the engine to spool up, letting it breath better means more fuel will be used as well. my $.02

vacuum pump failing? they both are connected steer pump behind vacuum pump.

its normal, i notice a significant drop in psi when i go from denver to ~10,000 ft or higher, i have heard the physics behind this before but id have to research again one thought it when you set the pressure to "x" at a certain sea level that air pressure is balanced with the pressure setting at that elevation. when you climb altitude the external air pressure drops and the pump now has to pull fuel from the tank harder which takes away energy used to pressurize at the same setting. i tested this and run 19 at idle in denver, got to a high elevation and the fuel psi dropped to like 15 IIRC so i readjusted to 19. when i got back to denver it was around 25 so i had to adjust it back down. think of it like this, our fuel system is a sealed one way flow, put a vacuum on the gas tank (basically what higher elevation is doing) and the lift pump has to work harder i had no leaks when i noticed this and it happens every single time i hit the mountains. when i went to arkansas my psi jumped higher so i left it knowing that it was normal. i think it affects exponentially the higher up you get pump design could be a attributing factor in this as well clear as mud?

i do know there are i think 3 different flavors of vp44 go to bluechip diesel they explain it there, could be possibl you got a vp44x which is an economy vp just a thought.

i had fuel pressure start dropping on my 01'. turns out the injector tube fuel leak and the return banjo bolt on the back of the head needed orings and banjo washers to fix my pressure problem. no fuel leaks and pressure is back where it should be. hopefully you dont have an injector oring bad dumping fuel into your oil. if you are quickly making oil i would look there if you dont have signs of leaks when you parknot sure this is relevant to your issue

thats mostly wheeler lake in the rockies here, i have taken brutus in so many places people didnt think a fullsize truck could go or do. i even impressed myself! thanks all for the welcomes and compliments!

here ya go in the member rides section http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4831-Brutus?p=43224#post43224 --- Update to the previous post... i will be replacing the stock injectors with 85hp industrial injectors, southbend clutch 1947 OFEK so i can handle the power. the stock original clutch is on its last leg and i am forced to drive around on stock setting most of the time. ples the original injectors seem a bit worn and are noisy. although i may go with the 120hp sticks from industrial injection.