Doubletrouble

My buddy has a gas mig I can borrow if needed. Maybe try to borrow his experience to and have him weld it in. Lol

I'm hoping it takes down the wife's pants but I think I'll have to change the switch labels to whatever I wire the switches to. Lmao

The hi/low boot? I assume you mean the transfer case shift boot? I looked at that from under the truck, it's metal with a small rubber boot under the truck. Did you just drill through that metal piece and grommet it through that?

Since this will be my first floor patch I think. Going to just get the actual replacement panel and start there. May have to get a new welder also, I have a small 90amp flux core I use for little stuff. From what I hear not the best for body work but we'll see. I'll test it somewhere with sheet metal first.

It's looking real good. I have some rust to address myself. I took care of some on the bottom of the passenger door but bought the wrong color touch up paint. I need to replace the driver's side floor from the seat mount forward. Not looking forward to that.

Apparently he got it figured out. Hasn't responded in 16 hours. Lol

Reviving this thread, got the switch box mounted today. Have the power wire for it pulled through the firewall up to the PDC (it's not hooked up yet). Now I'm in need of yet more advise. I need to know if there is an easy way to run the wires from the box to under the cab without chopping/drilling a bunch of metal. I just don't like drilling holes if I can avoid it since it will probably lead to rust at some point. Also, the switch box is illuminated, where would be the best place to splice into the lights so it comes on with the parking lights? It's only 3 LED's so it won't draw much. Thanks Forgot to add a pic

You could just zip tie the DA to a broom handle. Lol

Probably going to need more info on this. What have you tested so far? Truck is a '99, so far that's all we know. Auto, manual, milage, mods or all stock and so on. There are so many different combos both stock and aftermarket. The guys here will help you though the best they can but they also need all the information you can give them to help make an online diagnosis.

And the stench of your buddy's feet.

I'll leave them unhooked for now, I will get them replaced before long but leave them.unhooked until the weather requires them again. No sense in straining the batteries if not needed.

Since unhooked this morning no issues, no warning lights either.

Unhooked the power cable going to the grid heaters this morning and no problem. Breaker did not pop. Would it be a good idea to clean the terminals on the relays or should I just replace them? Also, it should be fine to leave them unhooked for now since the temps are up?

Thanks. I'll take a look in the morning.

@Mopar1973Man Is there a way I can test this? Where is it located? I don't want the breaker tripping Everytime I cold start the truck. The weather isn't real cold here lately but I guess it's cool enough for it to call for the grid heaters to come on.

I'm going to try to figure out why the break popped in the morning. Maybe the grids are pulling to much? Not sure if they were cycling when it tripped but I don't know what else could do it.

Got back to the house, shut it down and reset the breaker. Restarted, breaker popped again after a few minutes of idling. Reset while running and was fine for a 15 minute trip. Don't understand it.

I finished the ground mod. Not as bad as I thought it would be other than having big hands in small places. Ran the B+ alt through a 150amp breaker to the pass side battery. Separated all the ground splices in the front of the engine just like in the thread. I checked my AC noise before I began (engine still cold, grids not cycling) and had .038-.040. when finished well......see the pic below. Went for a short drive and the 150amp breaker popped. Not sure why

I am going to at least begin this mod today. I just received my 150amp breaker yesterday from Amazon, I'll still need to pick up an online fuse holder for the pcm as well. I do have a couple of quick questions. 1. What size fuse for the PCM? I read both 7.5amp and 5amp. 2. I read that the ac noise would affect cruise control somehow on a manual truck. I haven't used my cruise much, just wondering how it affects this? Any other things it could mess with? I will take ac noise readings before and after to see how this works out and report back when finished.

@Dieselfuture PB blaster is the stuff! We have plenty of rusty farm equipment sitting around. Some thing only get used once a year but ya have to have it so the PB comes in handy often. I didn't know that seafoam would stabilize gasoline for storage. If so I'll have to put some in my generator. I'm out of stabil anyway, was planning on buying some but I have seafoam on hand.

Don't want to hi-jack this thread but for those of us with no quad, is there a way to get high idle from the cruise control like in a semi truck or would we have to go with the high idle switch set up in the forum store?

I was curious on the opinions here on the use of seafoam to flush the oil system before an oil change. I have used the product before on gas engines with decent results. With a diesel engine being a more "dirty" engine and reading about possible valve and lifter bores becoming varnished with burnt oil on top of not knowing the exact history of my engine I was considering dumping a can in the motor oil and letting it do its thing to clean the oil system. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Been reading this thread, just curious for those of you that have done this, how much time are we looking at to pull the dash, replace/clean the heater core and the evap? Looks like a big job to me but I suppose once your into it may not be as bad as it looks? This is something I've planned in in the future to keep HVAC system working properly and to replace the dash. My hope is that the refrigerant leak I have is external so I can hold off on this for another year. Then dive in.

I tried fabreeze directly into the blower. I don't have any disinfectant on hand and can't seem to find any at the stores for some reason I hoping it will eventually dissapate on its own. Once I can get some disinfectant I will try that as well.

Lol, right!