Doubletrouble

@dave110 We have several old tractors. Our newest farm tractor is a '73 Ford 5000. Actually, the MH in the back ground is a 1938 101, it was one of the first few hundred built. Originally bought by my great grandfather, still has the original Dodge flat head 6 in it. That one is on the list for some attention here soon. We haven't used buzz saws in quite a while so I don't know if they will even be practical with chainsaws now days but I like to play with the old stuff sometimes just to keep it alive. Nostalgic I guess.

Kind of a rainy lazy day today so I thought I would tinker around with one of our old tractors. Today it was the 1945 Farmall H. She had a loader on the front yesterday, I remover that since the hydraulic cylinders began leaking so badly it wouldn't stay up making the tractor basically useless until it was removed. It had a hard time starting to yesterday after sitting almost a year and a half so I removed the carb and cleaned it out good and blew compressed air through it all. After that she was still running rough so off came the loader and to the barn she went. Today, pulled the hood off and began checking the ignition system, cleaned and gapped the plugs, cleaned the points and checked the gap there then set the timing (by ear of course, no timing marks on these old girls). After that she ran much better, I tweaked the carb settings a bit and drove down the road in high gear to try to put a bit of a load on her to test her out. Ground is to wet to do much else right now. She ran good so far and fires right up with no choke. I'm happy with it at this point. I think I'm going to install the belt pulley and hook her to one of our belt driven buzz saws just to use some of this old equipment we have around her. I hate to see things sit unused. I'll load some pics below for you all to check out. Enjoy!

@Mopar1973Man what sealer did you use. I have used alumi-seal I'm the past with decent results. Mainly for vehicles I was selling so I didn't see the long term effects if any. It's mainly an aluminum powder of sorts that plugs the leaks I guess. Just curious of what sticky gunk you refer to.

Will you do mine next? Mine has the clear coat issues, I don't know what to do with it. Lol

I won't put any sealer in and just keep an eye on it for now.

I agree, I try to either have a full water tank or empty it before I leave the campsite to head home. We haven't traveled with it very far yet due to not trusting a half ton truck with such a heavy trailer. They are not suited for that kind of weight. Now with the 3500 we can venture to where ever we like.

I have what may be a dumb question but I'll ask anyway. I have the '01 3500 dually quad cab long bed 4x4 and a 1989 29' jayco weighing roughly 7000-7500lbs in rolling order. Will I still require the weight distributing hitch that I used when towing with a half ton truck? Obviously I would have to reconfigure it for the heavier truck though.

That's pretty good for towing. What is the weight of the jayco fully loaded?

That will be the plan, like I stated, I would like to do the a/c coil and dash all at once so it'll be a bit before I can get it done. In the mean time what is the thoughts on a sealer until I get all parts I need? Also, once I do the heater core, a/c and dash I will then flush the cooling system and remove the radiator for cleaning. (Covered in the oily mess of the breather)

Humidity has been up a bit with rain here lately but the temps have been below normal. The trucks a/c needs charged at the moment to, so defrost mode doesn't pull the moisture from the cab as it should.

Forgot to mention that also, not loosing any coolant and the heater does blow hot air.

I've had a heater core leak before (different vehicle) so I'm familiar with the signs. The heater core in my '01 3500 has me questioning it. When I turn on the heater I will slowly get a fog on the inside of the windshield, then eventually on the door glass but I do not smell coolant. If I crack the windows and turn off the heater the fog will go away after a few minutes and leave no slimy film like coolant would. I don't have any leaks on the floor either. I don't want to do a heater core right now. I would rather accumulate what I need to do the heater core, a/c coil and replace dash board top all at once. Probably about a $500 ordeal. I also don't like to use alumiseal or other cooling system sealers unless absolutely nessesary. I should also mention that the heater does blow hot air. Any advise here? Is it for sure my core? Should I try a sealant for a temporary fix for now?

I've done something similar. I've made a list of things I need from a store and forgot to take the list with me

I couldn't find that grommet from inside. Is that the one that the main harness runs through? I believe I found it from under the hood but could seem to get to it under the dash.

Just think of all the cardio you get that way. Lol

My buddy has a gas mig I can borrow if needed. Maybe try to borrow his experience to and have him weld it in. Lol

I'm hoping it takes down the wife's pants but I think I'll have to change the switch labels to whatever I wire the switches to. Lmao

The hi/low boot? I assume you mean the transfer case shift boot? I looked at that from under the truck, it's metal with a small rubber boot under the truck. Did you just drill through that metal piece and grommet it through that?

Since this will be my first floor patch I think. Going to just get the actual replacement panel and start there. May have to get a new welder also, I have a small 90amp flux core I use for little stuff. From what I hear not the best for body work but we'll see. I'll test it somewhere with sheet metal first.

It's looking real good. I have some rust to address myself. I took care of some on the bottom of the passenger door but bought the wrong color touch up paint. I need to replace the driver's side floor from the seat mount forward. Not looking forward to that.

Apparently he got it figured out. Hasn't responded in 16 hours. Lol

Reviving this thread, got the switch box mounted today. Have the power wire for it pulled through the firewall up to the PDC (it's not hooked up yet). Now I'm in need of yet more advise. I need to know if there is an easy way to run the wires from the box to under the cab without chopping/drilling a bunch of metal. I just don't like drilling holes if I can avoid it since it will probably lead to rust at some point. Also, the switch box is illuminated, where would be the best place to splice into the lights so it comes on with the parking lights? It's only 3 LED's so it won't draw much. Thanks Forgot to add a pic

You could just zip tie the DA to a broom handle. Lol

Probably going to need more info on this. What have you tested so far? Truck is a '99, so far that's all we know. Auto, manual, milage, mods or all stock and so on. There are so many different combos both stock and aftermarket. The guys here will help you though the best they can but they also need all the information you can give them to help make an online diagnosis.

And the stench of your buddy's feet.