Doubletrouble

Thanks, I was just curious. I haven't ruled out a tuner forever. It's just not in the budget anytime soon for sure. I'd like to get gauges, new injectors, big line kit ( tank to VP) just not sure where to start to be honest. It's a good chunk of change just for those mods.

@Mopar1973Man, would those tunes yield the same results on my truck? I don't have a tuner but am asking out of curiosity. Being I have a dually I don't think I will ever get the high mpg's that some do anyway. Also, we've established that my injectors are original with over 140k on them. I've been noticing a slight "hickup" while idling, would this be due to the injectors as well?

Smoke is just a waste if fuel and energy. Inefficient burn and loss of potential.

I agree!

What he said

The stick for the manual trans makes things a little tricky because t I wouldn't trade it for an auto. Been a while since I had a manual pick up. Really like it. Seem to be less trouble than the auto as well. Still have their faults though. I like the back up cam mount, that's cool. My switch box has 6 switches, just need to figure out what all I would like on the truck.

I was curious, once I do the W-T ground mod the charge line won't be there anymore correct? Also, I think I may mount the switch box across the ash tray. I won't be able to open it anymore but I use one that sits in the cup holder anyway.

Whoa, I guess so. Lol Now to figure out where I can mount the switch box in the cab. With a manual trans I don't want the box in the way of the shifter.

Ok, thanks @Mopar1973Man.

I have a switch box from a police car that I want to install for various things in the future. I'm not sure where the best place to pull power from would be. I have it down to either the positive side of the battery (driver's side) or the power lead that feeds the fuse box under the hood. Which would be better? I know either one of those places would not be keyed power so I would have to be sure all accessories are off when I shut her down. The switch box I have is rated for quite a bit. Switch 1 is routed through a 40a automotive breaker, switches 2-6 are protected by 20a blade type fuses in the rear of the box. Any help or ideas are appreciated. Thanks.

They consistently trade safety and/or reliability to save a few dollars in production. It's sad but they all do it to some degree. In our trucks we have (in my opinion from driving large semi trucks) the best diesel engine out there. I favor the 5.9 because I have one and I believe they are based off of the N14 Cummins used in highway trucks. (Again, my opinion) which are well known for reliability and longevity. Then Dodge kind of drops the ball with their part in the engineering with stupid things like this ground issue. The transmissions could have been beefed up more as well. I'm sure there may be more issues to, I am some what new to the Dodge Cummins platform so the only experience I have is with my own, talking with my buddy that has one and what I read on here. I aim to correct what I can to have a reliable, long lasting truck.

It wouldn't surprise me much. I used to work for a supplier for a company that rhymes with heep. Some of the stuff I saw them do I really don't know how they sell, especially for the prices they get. It all about saving a dime where ever they can. I may stop and get the bolt and terminal ends I need tomorrow to get this done.

I didn't realize this could cause so much havoc. I need to do this ground mod soon!

Not to hi-jack this thread but I have a couple of small spots that the headliner is sagging, is there a way to fix it without removing the entire headliner?

With the fuel pressure dropping fast as you said I would think it could be a fueling problem there. The turbo timer problem could be an unrelated issue. I would address the fuel pressure problem first since that will quickly kill a VP44. Just my $.02 since I myself am new to these trucks but I have read ALOT trying to gain knowledge. Let us know what you find and what's done to correct it.

That's my plan as well. I want to slowly convert to all led I think. Less electrical draw and much brighter. With the smoke rear tail lights I think it'll be better to have brighter bulbs for safety. Still have to look into my reverse light issue, they work intermittently.

Who were you referring to @Mopar1970man ? I meant @Mopar1973Man.

That'd be awesome. My headache rack is round tubing so recessed lights won't work but I'd like to see it.

I'd like to see that setup @01cummins4ever

So far here in Ohio we don't have inspections. I think I'll be ok with the switchback bulbs. I'll get those when I swap out my headlight housings and switch to led headlights. Looking at the smoke tail light a little more I think I'll be "ok" if I leave it with std bulbs but I would rather begin switching over everything to led anyway.

I though most vehicle a/c cycled intermittently while in defrost mode to help remove moisture from inside the vehicle? Helps to keep the inside of the glass fog free on wet days.

That would not go over well here either. Like the song says "Better bring yours if you come to take mine"

You could be right @Dieselfuture, I to am a little concerned about how quickly they are changing some laws and making new ones in other cases. Some are for the better. Ohio for instance has no laws against price gouging but they are working on one as we speak. That one could be a good thing. I'm sure there are others that aren't.

Right, need to get one made for LED's or I'll have the hyperflash. Here's a short video with the parking lights on and the 4 ways. If this works ...... VID_20200410_170547547.mp4

I know it's bad stuff. I admit I did not take it very seriously at first but it didn't take long to wise up some. Now I try to keep my distance from everyone and stay away from more populated places all together