flagmanruss

OK, with magnification I can see the zip tie... still not sure how you threaded it. I'm even more fuzzy about where you ran the wires. Sure looks clean. How about a close up pict? (Sorry about being a PITA)I could see several of those up there rather than a pillar or something.

That is one slick guage install... makes me envious. A few questions, please...What did you attach with? Double sticky?Did you use a mounting box or just mount the unit itself? (Why not? cheaper & less bulk)

My personal choice would be to look for a Good Grade of SS hex bolts. I have a rust problem on my truck & when hardware comes off (expecting it will cost extra to remove/drill it out/etc) I plane to get the mechanic to use SS on reassembly, in case it ever needs to be removed in the future. Exhaust manifilds (water jacketed maraine wet exhausts) used to have SS studs & brass nuts... back before the universal negation of quality.

They sure make simple things sound important!

It's hard for me to hear the difference but them the sideline is not the same as the cab... which is where it counts. I see you have the 17" unit. Thank you. I'm liking this unit. Can anyone break down what was included in the packages.AHC Trailer Tow GroupAHD Heavy Duty Snow Plow Prep GroupAHJ Camper Special Group Thanks,Russell

Thanks Guys.Truck is 01.5Silverram, Have you seen these "resonators" in use, yourself?

I really like the sound of my exhaust (4" turbo back, full length, straight through "muffler") running light... However, the new-to-us 30' camper has all the aerodynamics of a brick. Under load, the noise in the cab makes conversation impossible except by shouting. Shouting did no good because wifee was wearing ear plugs on the return trip. I'm going to have to quiet it some.

Stepson had little interest in tools... I wonder what tools he has in the E.R. Step-Daughter liked doing with her hands... went off to college with her own tool box. When things needed fixing, she was the go to girl. Not much automotive, but she knows the basics.

I just wanted to share: I found NAPA Online... 04 Subaru Headlight replacement: BP1255/H1 (6.99) Warentee 60 days manu defectsBP 1255H1LL (12.99) Warentee 60 days manu defectsATM 64150 (4.59) ALTROM make 12 month/12,000 miles guarentee12258CVS2 (twin pack) (34.99) Warentee 60 days manu defectsGuess I'll be ordering 2 ATM bulbs... online...

Stock OEM headlights... standard 55w H1 bulbs. One thing I've just remembered... apparently the bulbs can be reversed. Flat can physically mount up or down... fine print says to put it up. I can not remember which way I had the flat so I'll be opening it up in the morning to see. Russ --- Update to the previous post... OK, I opened it back up. The flat on the bulb was down. I tried it with the flat up but it would not go. There IS an index in the Subaru light fixture that FORCES the down orientation. So the way I had it is how it must be. I used an alcohol wipe on the glass to be sure & closed it up. I'm planning to track the bulb life & keep a fresh pair in the drawer at home. Russ

Here's a shop built bumper on my previous 79 Chevy C30. Channel iron with a rounded section welded in the corners. The lightest piece on it was the License Plate inset in 1/4" plate. Cheap Lic Plate lights quickly failed to be replaced by SignalStat Truck lights. Lights & Lic Plate were through bolted with stainless & lock nuts. Finish is rustolium... touch up spray every couple of years. Bumper was totally solid when I sold the truck in 2006. 4 BIG bolts each side & a stop welded to the bumper so it could not be pushed forward but could be unbolted to remove. It caught 3 cars over the years, no scratches in the tailgate. I felt very sorry for the cute co-ed who slid into me in the slush at a stop light... likely totalled her BF's car. It crumpled the hood & etc pretty good & the green flood was gushing everywhere. Lessons: The shop built reciever was very solid but the cross pin hole was a tad off square which was a PITA. Mounting the trailer wire socket in the bumper cost me replacements when hit & when a garage pushed the truck... It would have been better mounted underneath.

Pretty much says it. It seems to be getting worse. I know the wifee is on the road all the time... car has DRL (Daytime Running Lights). I think the last pair (NAPA) lasted 6 months. No, no one touched the glass. Last night she came home with NO low beams. Installed another pair of NAPAs today. NAPA BP1255/H1 package marked "AUXILIARY OFF ROAD" made for NAPA by FEDERAL MOGUL "Made in Hungary" The lights are "bright enough" but I'm thinking of trying another brand. At this rate, I should keep them on the shelf! --- Update to the previous post... I've spent a lot of time Googling & reading... found the following interesting link: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-light-bulb-life-explained/ The article deals with 05 & up... ours is an 04. Looks like the same issue. Where do i find a Long Life bulb?

Subaru is a decent car... wife drives an 04. I really can't complain about anything except it likes to eat headlight bulbs. (About to post on this.) I don't recommend letting your truck sit. I couldn't drive mine for medical reasons & had the brakes rust up. I DON'T like WD40 as a preservative. Great as a penitrant but it evaporates. Wheels... wax 'em! Leave unbuffed if you want. In the Spring clean 'em & rewax. During periods when I don't use the truck regularly, I still exercise her once a week. I drag the brakes lightly on the 1/2 mile hill leaving our house each week. This has worked for the last year. Russ

Love my hidden hitch. With my 4X4 (no lift) I had plenty of room to install. I assembled the whole hitch under the bed. I bushed the square center hole & ran a long drill up through the bed & OEM bed liner. I used a holecutter to cut the liner & bed. It exactly centers over the rear axle... my old Chevy was shop built (permanet ball in the bed) & had the ball 2" ahead of the axle center line. My trailer has the axles very far back so I have a LOT of tongue weight... no problems. The Hidden Hitch release is hidden in the wheel well... I cut an access in the inner fender liner & installed a flap of inner tube rubber to keep the crud in the wheel well.

If you need to replace the resistor block again, drop the blower & check/clean out the duct work for critter debris. The air comes in through the cowel. The cowel drains are located behind the hood hinges... when I first bought my truck, mice got in immediately & I stuffed behind the hinges with stainless pot scrubbers (SS steel wool). Water will drain, perhaps a bit slower... but no critter access since 2001.To screen the intake on my Cirus, I need to pull the cowel & I haven't been able to... so I have had mouse problems repeatedly.

I've been running 2 stroke for a while. I premeasure the TCW3 into a quart container for a half tank + fill up. I carry them in the door pockets so have enough for a decent road trip without needing to measure again.

Wish I could figure out to get the cowel up & screen it... much better than cleaning up after. Wife's been cleaning out storaged stuff in the barn... very many ruined my mice. Just uncovered some spare tractor lights... rubber housings... mouse nest in them & rubber chewed up. Saved the sealed beams & trashed the rest.

I happened by a garage when a tech from Audi place worked on some dents from hail... an assortment of suction cup devises from the outside & shaped bars to get inside the hood & trunk frames. Oh, yes, and the touch of an artist... Russ

I drowned a car (long story, got stopped in an underpass when it flooded) many years ago. They did not change my title but paid me for the damages & let me keep it. I think I'd try to negociate with them to avoid the title change.

While I was cleaning the mouse poo out of the blower cage & heater core... I found the resistor block for the blower speed control. I'd had it replaced by the garage because I could not find the cussed thing. Well, it mounts into the bottom of the air duct between the blower & the heater core, with the contact block sticking down... & one wire to the blower. (The instructions that came with the unit from NAPA said "under the hood".) Really these are in the passenger's foot well behind the glove box (in the Cirus, necessary to remove a plastic duct/panel under the dash). This explains why I got the smell as the old resistor failed... air flow was supposed to cool it. Mouse fluff obstructed the air, caused it to overheat. Hope this will help someone else.Russ

The mechanic in me says parts should fit! If the holes in the bracket are worn / sloppy, my suggestion would be to built it up & redrill or weld a patch with a properly sized hole on the bracket. If the bushing fits & there is still space, I'd suggest a "shim"... like a flat washer... INSIDE the bracket to reduce the required deformation. A few extra seconds could make a world of difference.

Confirming the thread sizes are standard pipe. At my marina, I used to buy antifreeze in 55 gal drums for winterizing. I'd install spicots in the small & a bush the big hole to a small valve to control the flow by vacume. Use the forklift to set the barrels in cradles so I could get containers underneath. We recycled gallon jugs just as a convenient way of tracking materials used. Oh, yes, bought cases of MMO gallons. I split MMO into pint cans (tell you how long ago that was). Fast idle & a pint right down the carb throats would fog an engine nicely. I never lost an engine.

The 3 in 1 I was looking at was a Glow Shift... 399... not sure what was included...

When I first looked at this digital combo guage... at least I thought it was... it seemed like it displayed 3 functions. I'm not seeing that now. Was I confused?I saw a 3 in 1 combo guage yesterday... drat! The bookmark dign't take! Maybe DiPricol. A single adjustable torpedo mount. I'd like to do a single combo guage on the column... I'd give up the whole top surface if I could just get what I needed... even if it hung over. I was even thinking about reworking a 03-- over the mirror mount... flipping it onto the column. The only thing on the column is my remote radar detector... can go anywhere.

I have not installed guages yet... my eyes could not focus on the focal length of a pillar mount. I don't like the dash mount... I just don't want anything blocking my windshield... I hate the blind spots created when I have the towing mirrors flipped up & out! This little combo guage might be installed in that little utility hole in the dash! Or maybe a clever install on the column... Please let me know about your experiences if you go ahead.Russ