bh115577

Ok. You have power coming into the switch. Next check to see if you have 12 volts leaving the switch when you move it to the up and down position.

Do you have 12 volts going into the switch and coming out of the switch when moved to the up or down position?

Thanks. You just answered a question I was about to ask. I need to do injectors and money is a bit tight right now.

A pic I took a few years ago by Whiteface Mountain here in NY.

Might look a little funny hanging under the hood but mice hate these. http://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Products-Non-Parazyme-Deodorant-Fragrance/dp/B005DG18RK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1337701073&sr=8-2 I've put them in problem areas before and, no more problem. The only other thing I have seen work as well is a product you put on trees to keep deer from eating them. It is made from everything that they wash out of the big cat cages at the zoo. Smells too bad for me to put on a truck though.

I guess it is kind of a secret. He uses a website, something like parts deopt.com, and they only sell to dealers. He did say that anyone can look up parts to see what is available but only a dealer can buy. If I can get the link, I'll post it. The site works because he found a good many parts for my 1972 JD 110 garden tractor and old attachments. Most of those parts were supposed to be gone 15 years ago.

Rick, Go to this link: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/floor-jacks/15-ton-lightweight-aluminum-racing-jack-with-rapid-pump-68054.html and download the product manual. There should be instructions in it that will tell you how to bleed it out. Different jack but steps should be similar.

My JD parts budget is around $50k/year and the parts guys go the extra mile to take care of me. They told me there are 17 sitting on a shelf somewhere. Call 315-687-3309, press 1 for parts and ask for Rob. He has forgotten more about JD parts than I'll ever know. http://www.cazenoviaequipment.com/chittenango.htm He has a contact somewhere, in Conn. I think, that has warehouses full of new old stock. When dealers go out of business, or decide to sell parts that haven't sold, this company buys up everything they can get a hold of and put it on a shelf.

Not sure if this will help or not but I just got some info if you want to keep your power steering. The not available part, the last item on the parts breakdown page with no key #, which is AM101647 (sub for AR92472) was a complete power steering assy. to install on a tractor that came with manual steering. If all you need is the steering valve, key # 20, the part # should be AM35449 and is available for $736.70. [ATTACH]4000[/ATTACH]

Brian,What is the part # for the steer valve you need? I might be able to help.

No doubt. The samples are the only way to prove it. I did sampling for years and after a while I got comfortable enough with the results to stop. I'm starting another sample program here at work now but it is mostly for the Audubon. They love stuff like this.

No argument here. If you can get that many miles out of cheaper oil and have the sample reports to prove the quality of it, I say that's great.

The service manual is in downloads but I don't know if the breakdown you're looking for will be in it.

Thanks for the explanation. I have done many u joints over the years and naver had any problems but this was the first double cardan for me. It was a bit of a PITA but there isn't any vibration when in 4x4 so hopefully it will be good to go.

This is good to hear. I need to do the exhaust again and wasn't sure which one to go with.

What kind of troubles have you seen when rebuilding the front shaft? Is it something that showed up later? I did mine last fall and haven't had trouble yet but would like to be ready just in case.

I bought this: http://www.ross-tech.com/***-com/index.html a few years ago for our Passat. Cost about $120 after an upgrade and it is amazing how much info it will give you. I think I paid around $50 for the basic software and the interface on ebay and another $70 from ross-tech for the upgrade. I scan it sometimes just to see what is going on and there is usually a soft code for some kind of heat/ac issue. Blend door fault if I remember right.

This is the welder that replaced the 135. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200306073_200306073 It might not be the best choice for a full time fabrication shop but it has a 20% duty cycle and mine has never let me down. I have Lincoln power mig 215's in 2 of my shops at work and both have needed a decent amount of repairs. Other than that, the Lincolns are good.

I've got a Hobart 135 that is about as big as you can get and still run on 110 volts. It is awesome. Cost about $500 10 years ago and it will do most of what you are looking to do.

Welcome aboard.

I get a chirp out of mine when I shut the truck down sometimes. Is this what you guys are talking about or is it making the sound all the time?

Very sorry for your loss.

Saving time is a big benefit for me as well. The fleet I'm responsible for is just shy of 750 pieces of equipment and if I wasn't able to extend the drain intervals, I'd be in trouble. With 6 full time Techs, it's all we can do to keep up as it is.

Glad it worked out. I think I have a service manual for that tractor if you need it.

You get to fly Apache's???? That must be awesome!