Ilikeoldfords

Well the EGT's can go up to 1400* potentially. I dont know of any type of paint that would work that hot. I know even engine block paint is usually only good up to about 550*. Plastikote does make a "HI-TEMP" paint that is supposed to be good for headers and stuff. They say it is good for up to 1300* intermittently. Not sure if that would hold up for long either. Couldnt hurt to try I suppose.

I was thinking about that too but I dont think this little trailer that Russ has brakes on it. You can buy new hub assemblies for real cheap anymore though.

Wow. Kind of hard to believe that just by changing motor oil weights it would make that much of a difference. I went from a 15w40 Dino to a 5w40 full synthetic and did not notice any difference.

You have seen those mpg's with a cummins?? If so, that is pretty much record breaking. How did you go about figuring the mileage? GPS?

Wonder if you didnt have a plugged exhaust on that old ford. I had a 1976 F250 with a bone stock 390. I averaged about 12-14 all that time in that truck. Still had good power too. Man I miss that old thing sometimes though.

Well the shocks that are supposed to be the OE shock from monroe shows up as a 34778. I found another part number of 34782 that will mount the exact same, has the same compressed length, but has 2 more full inches of extended travel. That would probably be enough to compensate for the leveling kit.

That is the nice thing about monroe. I can look up by application and even dimension. Let me see if I can find one that would be a little longer than what the stock shock is.... I will get the part number to you in a bit.

Just take it a little easy when towing and you will be fine. Even if you just back down 5-10 mph once in a while I am sure it wont run to hot. The big thing will be trying to find the new balance between boost and EGT's, where the truck will like to run.

I would be more worried about debris getting to the injectors. The pump may be able to pass it just fine but can the injectors? And as you know, water doesnt make a very good lubricant. If the VP relies on good clean fuel to stay cooled and lubricated, I would want the cleanest fuel possible.

I have always liked the Monroe gas magnums personally. Thats what my dad always ran on his big rigs and got good life out of them.

Well as far as I can tell, that is still working. I will see what rpm it drops down to when I go to work in the morning. Were you pulling the trailer when it stopped working? Or was it bad even with the truck being empty?

Welcome Nuke! Lots of good info and more importantly, great people here. Hope to see ya around!

Instead of starting a new thread, I think I will just add to this one. Hope no one minds. I have been tracking down a fuel leak for a few months now. Its not very big, but just big enough to cause hard starts ONCE in a while if I park nose up hill. Coming up to a stop light you can smell fuel sometimes. After checking all the common places (back of the head, return tee, etc) I finally found that the bottom of the stock filter housing was pretty wet. Up until now I though it was the big line fitting going into the bottom of the canister. I tried tightening it up a few times but it was still getting wet. I realized that the hose that comes off the drain valve was wet too. As far as I can see, I think the drain valve is not sealing anymore. I cant tell if it is the valve itself that actually wont stay fully closed anymore or if it leaking where the valve mounts to the canister. I question for you good folk is this. Would it be better to get a replacement valve and just go that route? Or should I remove the stock canister and go with a spin on filter set up there and just eliminate the stock canister? Is that drain valve a common issue? Thanks for any input!!!

I did not realize there was even such a feature in these trucks. Does that just keep the rpm constant while you are first taking off? My truck will drop in rpms a little on launch but I think it has always done that...

If you are using plastic nylon tubing for the fuel pressure gauge, double check your compression fittings. Sometimes the ferrals can get crooked when you go to tighten the nut down. That would act like a kink but you would never find it unless you back the nut off again.

Happy birthday!! I still have a ways to go to catch up to ya but congrats on the big 5 0 !

I was actually just checking around for this same exact situation. We took a trip to Missoula, MT and back this weekend (yes, almost 2000 miles in 2 days) and I noticed about halfway there the cruise started to buck slightly. Not to much on flat ground but anytime we started up a hill or anything it seemed to put to much power on then back way off then come back on strong, etc. Its like it couldnt figure out how fast it was going or something. I had cleaned all the cables and the two block grounds right before winter but maybe I need to check out some of the body grounds? Not sure where else I can check. I very much hope that the VP is ok. It should be though, only about 20k miles on a fresh VP and never had below 14 psi getting to it. Guess I will start cleaning any and every ground I can find and see where that goes. We have another trip to Missoula coming up in a couple weeks.

Wow. Did not know it was that simple. I will get them things going asap. Thanks for the tips Tom and Mike!

Maybe if the funds work out I might pick on up later this summer. Have you gotten the truck out on the highway yet? Any noticeable pressure drops?

That sounds right. Should be 1/8in pipe threads to 1/8in tubing. Works great. Been using one for over a year with no issues and they are fairly cheap too.

Doesnt Cummins not want anything lighter than 30 weight oil used in these engines? If I was planning on living here in ND forever I might think about trying the lighter weight stuff for the winter time. What would the effect be of using the lighter weight oils? Would it cause any difference in pressures? I only ask because I have never run anything but a 40 weight.

I did a stealth plate on my DAP VP. The way I see it, as long as you arent doing a scotch lock on the wire or something that will cause it to fail like that, you will be fine. The stealth plate does tap the pump wire, but it is still a sealed system and there isnt any way it can cause serious damage. Like said before, just make sure you have good pressure and I would alway make sure you are filtering the fuel real good. I say tap it!!

For what you are doing, you would probably be better to stick with the stock exhaust. Unless you do injectors at some point, you probably wouldnt even notice any difference in EGT's. With the 4 in you also have the possibility of a drone while towing and that is not comfortable for anyone. I am no tranny guy but it sounds like everyone else has got you covered there. Definitely get some gauges and you will be good to go.

I only use firefox. Always seems to work better than any other browser. What ad blockers do you have? Do they come with firefox or did you get them elsewhere?

Do you remember what the part number for this filter is? It fits the stock canister too? I am still running just the stock 10 mic. Didnt think there was anything better for the stock housing.