Ilikeoldfords

Being as I have had a beard since the 7th grade, yes. Thanks for asking though

If it were mine, I would take those spliced spots and either solder them, or use a butt conector. Just something other than tape to reattach them to make sure the connection is good and clean. Are the spliced wires spliced together correctly? I mean, are the right wires spliced to the right wires?

Have you seen this?? It would probably help/solve your problem smell wise. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/42-crankcase-vent-mod

Haha Thanks guys!! I am finally growing up!! I can legally drink now at least

The fuel itself doesnt really effect the sending units for the electrical gauges. It is mainly the water hammer effect that the VP puts on the fuel line that literally beats the sender to death over time. You can and should use a snubber on electric or mechanical to protect the gauge/sender. I would have to say that the VP is probably dead but I would get a hold of Mike maybe. He is really good and the final diagnosis of a dead VP. His decision, or anyone thats really experienced with them would just be reassuring before shelling out that kind of money. Another thing to keep in mind, most all rebuilt VP's need at least 10 psi at all times otherwise the warranty will be voided. DAP has really good pricing on VP/Lift pump combos. I wouldnt put a new VP in without ditching the stock lift pump and putting something else in there that will keep at least 14 psi at all times.

Same thing happened to me but Ed is right. Just shut her down and let the 'puter reset basically. Next time your start it up, go to the 6 cyl position and it will just do the 6 cyl fast idle. I called Ed about it and he was great to talk to. Very out going guy.

Stay away from glowshift. Some people have good luck with them but most have not. With gauges, some people like electric but I think most people prefer mechanical. Just make sure you run a snubber or needle valve on the line to protect the gauge and you will be just fine. Check out DAP. They usually have some great deals on gauge combos or they also sell individual gauges. Go for Isspro gauges. Good quality product and I have heard the least amount of problems with them. Using stock lift pumps it is kind of a hit or miss. Even though they pass the flow test, 10 psi is the BARE minimum pressure to keep a VP 44 happy. If you only have 10 psi at idle, you can bet the pressure will probably drop to about 0 under WOT. No good there. If you do get a new VP, I would strongly suggest getting an aftermarket lift pump system, go with Fass if you want to stay electric.

You can even just rent one from DAP. Rent it, put it on half power mode, do the smog test, return to stock and send it back. Works real slick. On another thought, I dont know if I have ever seen a 2nd gen with a CAT on it. Did they ever come with one?

Just a thought, if you do go with the 100hp sticks, you might want to go with a bigger turbo or twins even. I had 100hp sticks are they were completely impossible to tow with still using the hx35.

My truck had Delo 15w-40 run its entire life of 215,000 miles. Switched to 5w-40 full synthetic about a month ago and have driven over 4,000 miles since then. No leaks to speak of here.

He's got a cracked block. Dont know if you saw it but I think he was talking about it in a different thread.

I sold this baby a couple months ago but it was a beast!! Not to many like it around anymore. Empty it weighed in about 3200 lbs. Full for camping, about 4000 lbs Full 2x4 wood frame, Actual hardwood interior, Bathroom/shower (not just a portapotty), 3 burner stove, Oven that doubled as the interior heating furnace, Queen sized bunk and single sized bed when table folded down, Fridge/Icebox, Two 5 lb propane tanks No batteries!!!! Power inverter 30 Gal fresh water, 20 gal black tank, NO grey tank!! 3 Gal hot water tank All original except for the back driver's side corner. I reframed it because of water damage.

Happy birthday!! Hope you did something nice for the day!

Are you losing a ton of coolant all the time? Like having to top it off a bunch? I would hose down the block and start looking around the freeze plugs like Diesel4life said. Maybe one is rusted through. Had that happen on my old ford 390 one time.

I had the same thing as Dripley happen on mine. That mount at the tranny pulled loose from the pipe and ripped a hole. I just have a 4in straight pipe all the way back from the turbo. It does drone a bit when towing heavy and I am around 2k rpms, but otherwise the turbo is MUCH louder in the cab than the exhaust it. As for it being louder when cold, I would also check clamps and what not. Seems like something is seperating while its cold but closing up whenever it warms up a bit. Hope its not a cracked manifold or something. I think you would really know it if it was though.

Maybe since you replaced the pads and rotors, the calipers are hung up from the pistons being so far spread with the new parts. I think these calipers are common to fail or hang up. Rebuild kits are really cheap. It is curious that both of them hang up at the same time though...

That would explain it! hmmm makes you wonder..

I wonder if it was just a lack of technology that caused us to just start realizing this. I also dont really know why its so hard for people to accept that the facts/theories are changing. Why try to fight it? The scientific facts are right there. We were wrong this whole time about the dinosaurs.... oh well. I think it is kind of cool to think that humans and dinosaurs may have lived together for a period of time. That also makes me wonder what actually caused them to go extinct and why humans are still around. Adaptivity?

Ya I didnt have to bleed my gauges either. Dont really know how it works but it does. Just hooked them up and bam, pressure and fluid filled line.

Amsoil makes a good full synthetic power steering fluid. As for the brake issue, I would be checking your pads/shoes. Usually if they are getting thin, it will cause them to be kind of grabby until they warm up. Had it happen lots of times to different vehicles.

I think the fuel cap should do some of the venting. There is also supposed to be a vent on the top of the tank somewhere. They are common to plug up with dirt and what not. I think a lot of people actually make their own vents because of the plugging up issues with the stock one. I am not sure about that stuff though as I have not yet had a vent issue with my tank.

I did get the cubby mount. Its not a big deal. I have all of that stuff at my store. Thanks anyway though!

Yep. Something funky with the injectors letting compression back to the tank via the return line. I have also heard that a cracked head could do the same thing. Worst case scenario though and unlikely.

Quick question Ed, what size of plastic tubing do you usually use to cut for the spacers? It appears I am missing it in my kit. No big deal at all, I sell lots of it at the store, just wondering what size would normally come with it. Thanks.

Come to think of it WF, I dont think I have seen but a small handful of ND flags since I moved here last summer. I know in WA, there is at least one state flag for every American flag flying.