Ilikeoldfords

This is with it plugged in all day/night. I am running a mechanical isspro oil pressure gauge. It is running off the port right above the oil filter. That is why I am wondering if I should do something about it. I never thought about that little plastic line making it hard to build oil pressure to the gauge though.

This will be pretty cool. Now we all can know exactly whats in there and what goes wrong!!

I will be using this write up in the spring time Nice job Yabba!!

I was just wondering about motor oil. I am getting ready to change mine before a big trip and was thinking about switching to synthetic. The ONLY reason I would do the switch at the moment is for cold flow properties. At the moment, I am running Delo 400 and when it is -20 to -30 in the mornings before work, it takes a good 5 minutes or more of idling to get up to 40 psi. That cant be good!! What does everyone think? Will the synthetic really flow that much better at those temps? I have never run synthetic before.

Ya we got up to about 2-3 above and gained another inch or two of snow since I got to work this morning.. Last night we were down to about -20. Ready for spring time now.

It is kind of strange that some parts of the country are like that but others are worse than normal. This is the 4th coldest winter in Grand Forks history and we have gotten about 25% more snow this year than what is "normal" for this area. My buddy in Anchorage, AK on the other hand has only gotten about 8 inches of snow so far this whole winter!! Not good.

I dont think anything apart from keeping it out of the sun and heat is really the only way to keep anything plastic from cracking. I know some places make little spacers that fit into the dash parts and distribute the force around the fasteners. I have heard they work pretty good but never tried them myself.

You can get a FASS DDRP with a frame mount I believe. The other option is an Airdog raptor 100. Thats what I run and its mounted on the frame. It is about the same exact size as the stock pump but you get more flow with it. Yes, they were having problems with them but I hear they have since cleared it it. I have been running mine for about a year with no issues yet. The biggest thing is you need that pressure between 14 PSI and 20 PSI. Anything less and the VP44 will overheat and anything more and you run the chance of blowing the seals out in the VP44. It should stay between 14-20 AT ALL TIMES.

I have come to the conclusion that this is the problem I have been experiencing with my NV5600. As soon as I get some money I am planning on replacing the clutch and all the goodies that go with that. I already did the hydro's and they helped a little bit but the problem still is there. Most days I cant shift without double clutching or waiting at least 2-3 seconds in between pulling out of a gear and going into the next gear. I also have the same problem at a stop. Just doesnt want to go in most of the time.

Should just be able to measure from the middle of the front hub to the middle of the rear hub. That will be your wheel base measurement.

The only things that I could tell ya for sales are these: -Do your homework and know what you are selling -Dont get your feelings hurt when customers are upset, sometimes there is no help for them -Have fun with it!!! I know parts sales might be different than RV sales but the sales part is the same. Just use common sense and you will be good. Good luck and I hope this works out better for ya!!

I wouldnt bash on ford to hard either. They brought us the world of the automobile that we know today. As a personal preference, I havent seen another car mfg produce a vehicle that could last nearly as long as a ford does, apart from toyota maybe. Heck, I had a bone stock 1986 Ford ranger with the 2.6 V6 and 5 speed and apart from regular maintenance that thing went forever!!! i finally lost a head gasket at 365,XXX. Picked up a free motor out of a wrecked bronco II and now my brother has put another 65,XXX on it!!!! All of the work trucks at my old store were ford gassers and all had well over 300,XXX on them with nothing more than regular maintenance into them. All still drove nice and made decent mileage too!! Ok im off my now. Let the beatings begin!!!

Also a thing to keep in mind, double check the max load that the axles themselves are rated for. The bearings and spindles are only rated for a certain weight. Heavier tires wont do much if you overload the axles. Surprisingly the axles are the common fail point rather than the tires. I had hundreds of people come in with broken axles or spindles that split and the tires were still ok after overload problems. Its amazing how many people dont take the axles into consideration. I am sure you have though.

Look at FASS if you want to stay with an electric pump. You can get full fuel systems for pretty reasonable on websites like Vulcan or Diesel Auto Power. You can try Airdog too but their quality has fallen off the last couple years. If you have the coin the way to go now is mechanical pump. Glacier Diesel or DTT Assasin are good mechanical lift pumps.

Yes. That would be kinda cool. Could you imagine trying to create a turbo that small?? I just thought it was kind of a neat little thing to show off here.

So any advice on using a smarty? I havent ever gotten my hands on one but I am sure it is pretty straight forward. Anything to watch out for loading it on top of the Comp? I want to have a little fun with it while I have it

Definitely triple check the batteries. Clean terminals and grounds and load test those batteries for sure. You should be fine then. Might run the grid heaters a couple times before trying to start it but you should be just fine.

Well I had another bad experience with the dealership. Went down to get the fast idle software flashed and they couldnt do it. I even printed out the tsb paperwork that is in the articles section for them!!! Their excuse was manual transmission trucks can not be flashed with this software because their tool wont do it. I am just going to rent the smarty and do it myself :banghead: Last time I will ever be going to the dealer!!!! This was a different dealership than the last one by the way...

Just out of curiosity what were the egts at with it disconnected?

Ya I would look at doing a Fass instead of the airdog. Fass is a very good brand and hasnt had any of the mfg issues like airdog has had the last couple years. If your pockets are deep enough I would also check out some of the mechanical lift pumps that are offered. Whatever you decide to do make sure you do a full 1/2" big line kit with the pump. That way your entire fuel system will be able to keep up with the increased flow and volume of the new pump.

If you are talking about me, no I dont. Or are you talking about the Eagle Eye guys? I wish we did. I could get you some pricing if you wanted though. We are close enough that shipping wouldnt be a big deal.

If I am not mistaken, the wastegate is there to prevent over boosting. It only lets the turbo build a certain amount of boost before it starts bleeding some pressure off. I am not sure though as to weather it will do any harm disconnecting it or not. Gotta ask bigger brains than me.

I wonder what it would take to make a mini diesel like that..

Our big sign out by the road for my store was ripped apart yesterday in our wind blasts. We also had some hard snow yesterday to go right along with it. They actually closed Hwy 2 and I-29 and that is pretty crazy considering they are flat and straight highways for the most part. I dont know what our recorded wind gusts were but it was not fun being outside. There were times I couldnt see the buildings right across the street!!!

Do you have a heat shield for the filter? I havent made one yet. Thats also why I havent made an outwear for mine because its pretty close to that turbo. Wouldnt want to catch anything on fire..