Ilikeoldfords

Thanks for the tips. The most I ever off road are just the forest service roads and such. With the 35" tires I am not to worried about clearance. I will check and see about the area laws and see what they say.

I never thought about doing that before. Looks simple enough to do in the parking lot . Thanks for the tip!! I guess I never knew what went into the install.

Well when I purchased the truck it has a FASS 95 on it. It had been relocated to the frame rail already so I have no clue as to what this truck had for a stock set up. The FASS died on me early this last spring and that's why I put the Raptor in. Just dropped the FASS out and put the Raptor in it's place. I change the fuel filter with every oil change so about every 5000 miles. Never had a change in pressure and I have gone through 3-4 fuel filters since I put the raptor in. I have tried WIX, Fleetgaurd, and Baldwin fuel filters and no change. I would like to do a draw straw but again I just don't have the means of doing the work where I live.

Well here she is.... Not much but I am very proud to own it. OE Specs -2001 Ram 2500 4X4-24v H.O. -HX 35 Turbo-NV5600-Camper Package -3.55 Gearing -Quad Cab / Long Bed -Originally Dark Maroon in color.. Now white -SLT Model, Cloth interior, Power Windows, Door locks, Premium Sound -Tow Mirrors -Tow Package Aftermarket: -DAP VP 44 Injection Pump -Oregon Injection 40hp Injectors -BHAF -Edge Comp with Hot Unlock -BD Stealth Plate for Wire Tap -Boost Elbow -Isspro Mechanical Gauges: Oil Pressure, Boost, EGT, Fuel Pressure -Raptor 100 Lift Pump -3/8's Big Lines from tank to VP 44 -4in Turbo-back pipe ending with a 6in chrome tip -Valair HD Clutch Hydraulic Assembly (DAP) -Valair Single Disc Clutch -2.5in Leveling Kit in Front -Atwood Flip-ball Goose Neck Hitch in Bed -Custom Fog Lights and Reverse Lights -Bed-Lined Rockers all the way around -Aftermarket Black Headlight Housings -Cobra CB Radio with Dual Wilson Antenna's -High Idle Mod-Cubby Mount -230,000 miles and counting!!!

How would I be able to tell if my sending module is the one with a pump on it, or the early verison without the pump? Will it be pretty obvious with a plug or wire coming out of it for the pump? I just kind of want to know what to look for before I go digging into the problem. I am thinking I might have the later style with the OE lift pump in it. Trying to pull fuel through it and making my pressure drop maybe?

Just a side question here. Is it possible to pull the pump module from the tank without dropping the tank or pulling the bed? My wife is going to college and we live on campus, no room to do major repair work. I just want to pull out the module and see whats going on in there. My raptor 100 is still kicking, but ever since new I have had about a 6psi drop from idle to WOT. I replaced all the lines and fittings from the top of the tank to the VP with 3/8's stuff, no change.

^^^^ That's what I did and I love it. I haven't done it yet, but I am going to incorporate a diode so they turn on with my switch and the stock lights when I put her in reverse.

I am also running a set of those landing lights. The way to do it cheap is just get some of those glass beam tractor lights that have the rubber housing. Then you get a spot beam bulb to replace the flood bulb. I don't remember what those part numbers are off hand.. Don't take them to California though, they cut the wires at the state border because they don't want you to run them!! - - - Updated - - - Crap... You beat me..

Depends on where you mount it. On the pillar, might get a little close. I used a 10ft lead with my gauge and im glad I did. Mine gauges are pillar mounted as well. Just a thought, you get what you pay for with gauges. I would be questioning the reliability with that set that you have there.

Because of my 3.55 gearing and the 35" tires I always start out in first. I tried second a few times and I feel like it lugs way to much. And second is pretty grabby. Truck shutters like previously mentioned.

I'll get a better pic so everyone can see. Out of all the mods I have I easily get the most compliments on those stupid lights lol!!

I had some holes cut in my bumper and installed some standard grommet mount lights. This way they fit flush but are as far back as they can be so I get the most light output. It's kinda hard to see them in the pic but here ya go.

Back when I lived in Washington I loved my EB. If you are towing heavy and have lots of grades to go up it down it really saves the brakes and I would never go without one. I also think some people use them to help warm the truck up with the high idle mod?? This is just my opinion but I wouldn't ever tow without one anymore.

I would have to say trailer. Less to maintain to use it and you can always find the parts to complete your toy project later. And you won't have to worry about doing the part out on the truck later either. Trailer all the way.I would vote but I can't figure out if you can do it on tapatalk.

That's good to know. Thanks for the tip. I also have my old worn out fass 95 with me at all times. It holds a steady 13-15 so I would at least be able to limp it home that way if I had to. All these issues coming up really make me question the reliability of my truck. That's no good because it's our only vehicle until further notice...

Just to add my input here. I purchased my rapter 100 early this last spring. I have it relocated on to the frame rail and have always ran 3/8's line from tank to VP. I also installed a BF1212 fuel filter before it when I put the pump in. So far I haven't had any issues with it. Maybe being away from the engine and having a good filter before it has saved it so far?? Sounds like I should have had problems with it by now according to all the issues others have had.

Geez. Wish I had a shrader valve on my pump. Makes everything so much more simple! This is the first time I've seen one with a valve on the side like that.

I have a rapter 100 and I like it. If I had the money or could do it over, I would have went with some kind of a mechanical pump. That way you aren't at the mercy of the electrical system for runability and performance.

The heating system will override the a/c, so to speak. I believe the a/c system is used in all the selections to help remove moisture from the air. That is what a/c truly does.

Very good to know. I have to ask, what is HOAT? Is it a brand or type of coolant? I am right at about 35000 since the last time it was flushed so that's why I'm doing it now.

Hey everybody. I am getting ready to do a radiator flush. Are there any particular brands or types of antifreeze to put back in? I was thinking about using rotella ELC because its specially formulated for diesel engines. Any thoughts? Oh ya, and does anyone know what the full system capacity is? Thanks tons!!

I got a Valair set up from DAP. I think its a good quality kit and it came prebled. Here is the part number NMU70HYD-02. The only thing is I had to reuse my old clutch safety switch and I think the South bend one comes with a new switch. My kit was about $280.

What he said^^^. When I replaced my hydros I asked the guys down at DAP and they said to just make sure the clutch starts to engage when the pedal is about 1 or 2 inches off the floor. It does not really matter where the clutch pedal ends up once the clutch is fully engaged.

I also am running 35's with 3.55's. With the 6 speed I do ok. I also like running over 70 and still be around 1700-1800 rpm's. I just have a 2.5in level kit up front and stock in back. Looks almost exactly level when unloaded.

I agree with the trailer going to be your biggest issue. As long as you keep up on your maintenance the truck should be fine. I usually always re pack my trailer bearings once a year just to be safe but most people don't. I just have a basic set of hand tools with me too. I also carry a spare lift pump. It was the old one that I took off so I just had it laying around. At least I wouldn't be stranded and I could get home or to a shop on the old pump.