guesswho512

how much boost can those twins make?

do u ever pump bio blends? i have seen a lot of photos where the all kinds of stuff was gummed and corroded because of bio. i have been running 5% bio and get a nice bump up in MPG. when using bio, i never add 2 stroke. i also go a little less than 1oz per gallon when pumping straight #2

they work. and work well...i believe the iat is a little off.:banghead:

most of okc did the trick-or-treating last night(except norman, they did the night b4 cause of a football game:lol:). my kids got enough to rot all their teeth.

I repeat: HARBOR FREIGHT a/c manifold gauges ARE NOT a good buy. the gauges and block themselves look ok, but i purchased these, and the crimp on the high side hose broke loose at 275psi. it sprayed my freon and oil all over me and the front/side of my truck. the hoses said they were rated to 500psi. this was only the 2nd use. they refused to replace my freon

i do a lot of start/stop operations. mine wore out at around 170k-180k. mopar1973man....when you fixed the weeping line...did it make a difference on your miss at idle?

i got cold just looking at those pics. last night was 38*f and i was freezing. funny that my grids didn't kick on...

nice!

programers/chip/comp boxes will not help a p-pumped truck that explains it. your trans is the weak link. defiantly start with gauges and valve body for the automatic. then take a pick at the power adders . i would stay away from hotrod pumps. you can get what you are looking for without them

yea! no more *click*click* for you!just FYI for anyone who gets stranded/no money/got to drive until package arrives... you can take a drill and make the hole on the contact that is wore out longer. allowing you to move the contact up and actually make contact.don't forget to recycle.

like to siblings. always got to show the other who is best :lmao:i guess i live by the "grasshopper" motto: put it off until i get a pay check(gotta happen someday, right?)....or was that steal an ants food and home(turning it into a slum)?

are you saying that autos idle at 750 and sticks at 850? mine seems to like 808rpm with the grids off. funny. the anti-stall on the sticks doesn't let the rpms get lower than 600-700. it fuels enough to get ~800. i accidentally took off in 3rd once. didn't stall it and i don't give it throttle when i think its in 1st . just accelerated quickly to 800 and coasted. i didn't have my data tool hooked up, but i'm sure that would have been ~40% LOD. is it possible you have air getting in to the lines. a slight leak left me with funny idling for a while.

happy birthday mopar1973man. thanks for all your hard work."your halfway to death"

the key trick doesn't work on 99s

i agree with you about the torque converter creating more of a load than my stick. when i first started playing obd2 everyone told me "that diesels don't report load% correctly". i don't know how true that is, but their arguments were about air/fuel ratios and how long the injector stays open(duty cycle). also on my cars(manual trans) at idle, load % sits at 20-30%. the same with my wifes auto. i my ram, i can actually get 0%(you and i know those injectors are opening) and even numbers like 3.13%. live data here at idle on my cars, not moving just giving gas, i can get load in to the high 90%, but with the ram i might get 5%(and thats a BIG might)

i pulled the battery tray in looked at that ground yesterday. i thought to myself, that is the worst ground. has anyone ever moved or reworked that sob?

100% load would be as much fuel as the injector can spray. you have to remember that load % is a obd2 pid designed for gassers. even at idle gassers will report 20-30% load because they have to match air to fuel ratios. diesel are not as strict and can run really lean. hence the really low %s. i typically only see 1%-2% load at idle unless the grid heaters are kicking on

i believe load % is usually determined by injector duty.

i can't wait to see what the head that is still driving looks like.

took a couple of weeks, but i finally finished that read...wow it came a long way.mopar1973man, what kind of batteries do you use in your system. the cable company i work for uses both battery backup and natural gas generators in OKC, and battery backup only in Tulsa. we only use AGM batteries(in both markets). i don't think i ever remember seeing batteries that were over 10yrs in any "cabinets" that i have worked in. when you do replace your batteries, call around to scrap yards and find out who will give you the most for them. most people pay someone for disposal, but we always get paid. often its only 2-3 bucks a battery(i have seen as high as $6), but when you have pallet loads of em. it can be worth your time.

i can imagine you swerving to HIT the potholes! hahaha

the phillips came out with a screw driver for me. the nuts(on the outside) that hold the stud(and contact) to the housing are what i had to use the 17mm impact on.

why would you/someone only change 1 contact? at least on my 99s, both contacts were the little square ones on the right side. my replacements were the bigger ones on the left. my write up(http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1911-Starter-contact-write-up) shows what i am talking about. my brushes look okay, so i got away with contacts and plunger only. an impact wrench made short work of the contact nuts. i could NOT break them with hand tools.

you have to clean your inbox/sent items. it won't let me send a PM to you

that looks awesome! my wife and i think that is trick. did you find a "bolt on" for the LED lights or did you solder it? have you ever had any programmers besides your quadzilla ADR? i am saving for a ADR(assuming my VP44 doesn't dive before its ordered) but am anxious to hear b4 and after involving ADR.