guesswho512

i got yelled at by a cop for doing that.....u must immediately pull over....he ever used it to leverage a voluntary search of my vehicle. if they want you to pull forward, they say it over the loud speaker.

the 4 cylinder turbo? i thought all those were good for was swapping INTO a Ranger.

i used the gray on my rangers trans. the tube said HIGH TEMP/HIGH TORQUE(whereas the red is just high temp). if memory serves the gray was rated to 600F and the red was 650. when i changed the fluid in my Dana 80, it didn't have a gasket. just red rtv. you have to let it set or "skin" before you put the cover on

like what? i have been planning on getting a set of gauges. GLOW SHIFT is the most reasonable priced, but sometimes you get what u paid for...but i would like to find a sweet deal

i would disagree. per bosch, 70% of the fuel the VP receives is SUPPOSE to return to the tank. i don't believe that the VP44 needs a particular fuel pressure, but a sufficient volume. but since the stock lines are so small, the only way to have high volume is with high pressure. my truck is nearly stock(a fuel pump and steering box stabilizer) and i gained 2-3 MPG the next tank after i installed my AIRDOG150. i picked up 1-2 MPG from removing the resonator/muffler. also, most of the low pressure lights i have seen don't light until 5psi or lower. that is 1/2 of the minimum fuel pressure for stock fuel lines. most of the time, if the lights on, you are WAY to low. glad to hear your truck is running. i hope you have many trouble-free years ahead of you

do you mean the brass 90* for the waste gate?

did that while i was at the camp site(b4 i got home and posted this thread) there were no codes when i checked after i got home... don't you put that curse on me, Ricky Bobby

if it lasted a week i would already have narrowed it down and fixed it.... i cannot reproduce it, and i'm hesitate to throw parts at it.

this "bucking" or "missing" happens to me once a month. happens at highway speed and at idle, with the cruise on or off. i fells like for a split second the injectors don't pop, and then it picks up like nothing happened. it leaves no codes. lately it has not been soo harsh, it feels like i let off the pedal(but i don't). i have check battery terminals and engine grounds and all seem ok. i was starting to think its my VP44 cause power is low, i have no codes, and the "bucking" happens once a month

sorry DAVE3500 i missed your post. to answer your question, i read that info on http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_isb.htm i just ordered the big line kit from vulcan(over trying to drill them out). it came with a tapped 90*, which is handy since the 99 does not have a schrader valve on the VP44(not that i have an in cab gauge, yet)

on my ranger, when the input shaft decided to lose teeth, there were no weird sounds prior. i literally was driving on the interstate, pulled off for fuel, and before i could get back on i was hearing a STRANGE noise. because you say you can't get any gear(forward or reverse) i'm inclined to think it has to do with how the stick moves the forks. the forks move the collar over the syncro and onto the gear. if your stick does not move the fork, the collar doesn't engage. and i would imagine that would be an "all or nothing" problem. the input shaft has enough teeth that you should shear everyone --- Update to the previous post... never mind...thats all manual stuff...triple disc torque converter means AUTOMATIC :banghead::banghead::banghead:

ISX made a chart for torque values based on size and grade here's a link https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AhHyLR2_DBOgdEN5TXExcGczWENKeTRIQlQ5bW9zR2c&hl=en&authkey=CMjhhewG

young and naive...they push a lot of people around. maybe the mechanic would get a title for my vehicle way before i had my day in court? i know there are good shops/mechanics out there. my grandfather was an awesome mechanic(finding and fix problems even dealers could not) until he retired. i have also learned that you get what you pay for some times...

it comes with 12mm adapters. all you need is some thread sealer and 2 wrenches.

been out hunting this week. i noticed at least twice, when the air temp was in the mid 50s and my truck had been sitting for at least 10hrs(and unplugged), my grid heaters didn't kick on(wait to start, idle, or, low speed driving). someone suggested that there might be a fuse link in the wire from the battery to the relays, but both had voltage thru the wire when i checked it with a DVOM. what should i check next? or am i jumping the gun, and its not cold enough for the ecm to start the grids? ISX does the 12v PCM run the grids? didn't you wire a switch for those?

thats awful. they must have designed it for a small truck/suv(ranger,s-10,tacoma,dakota)? are they going to give u a refund?

i was under the impression that only automatic transmissions have/had torque management. am i wrong?

ditto....i didn't own i vehicle until i was 20. i had found a local shop that did my maintenance at a reasonable price(since i didn't know $*%! about cars). the drivers side rear drum went out and i took it to them. new drum and a rebuild later the charge me ~$850(FOR 1 DRUM,not even both sides!) i had to miss work because they took 4 days to complete(they had ordered the wrong drum size) convinced the robbed me without a gun, i swore that shop off. the next time i had work done i took it to a different shop with reasonable rates, and told them if it costs more than $100 call me prior to starting the job. they never called...after 3 days i went to see what was up, and they slapped my with a ~$500 dollar bill. i nearly lost the truck over it, as i didn't have the money. from that day on...i fix my own stuff....i'm not a mechanic, i just play one on TV glad to have you here kerley. i bet your 98.5 is VERY similar to my 99 i'm on this site a lot(until i leave to hunt) so if you have any questions, fell free to drop me a line

i offered to be a beta tester, but i haven't heard yes or no....yet. i signed up before i watched mopar1973man's video.....kinda leaves me doubting, but if i get a call i will still say yes and maybe get to see it up close

those are the tires i have. got them in july. just got back from the hunting lease and it is rare that a 2wd doesn't get stuck. i didn't this time, but admittedly didn't take them for a "full" test, yet they seem like good tires so far

you got that right...75mph down the free way with a full ladder rack makes the bed move around a lot! i never notice until a couple months ago, when i rode in the back seat. i was worried so i check at the next rest stop and all the bolts were present and tight.

i thought 5%(officially approved by cummins) was the limit...at least for my truck......hmm let me research and see who or where i picked up that info....

do you carry a spare MAP? that one looks awfully new

yes...my mostly stock 99 has a boost elbow and i get P0234 ALL THE TIME. no Check Engine Light, but the code is there. it has no pep, or uhhff while the code is present. i can clear it with my scanner, and it drives like a top until i give it to much throttle and trip the code(it doesn't even take 3/4 pedal). since my scanner requires a laptop. i didn't even realize how fast the thing comes back! how much $ is the MAP sensor?

i bought said gauges....the hose's crimp blew on the second use(my dodge ram) it was the high side and it blew at ~275PSI. i wasn't even charging....just wanna make sure everything was in spec. it was until i lost freon and oil :banghead: . and it leaves a stick residue on you and your truck. i took the gauges back. the gauges and block seemed like they were decent compared to some i looked at. but i have had a lot of stuff from HARBOR FREIGHT that brakes on the second use(i wonder why i shop there, but some times it is cheaper to replace 3 times than to buy premium)