guesswho512

thats where mine was leaking from(only drops when you turn the steering wheel). replace it. a rebuild is tough and a seal kit only works if the internals are still good. the new one i got from local autoparts place(oreillys) has a lifetime warranty. $169.99 + $200core

similar thing happened to me. i change the fuel system relay in the PDC(under the hood) by the time i got to autozone the only code i had was P1689. the light went out 2 starts later.

they usually frequent the drilling rigs. stick in the tank is their preferred method, tho i have heard stories of checking the fuel filters. i bought my truck from a farmer. it had a 100gal transfer tank in the bed. even after running that think full to empty 5 times, the red was still in there. to find it in the exhaust gasses means they must be dieing heavyohh and LOTS of stories(from ford and chevy guys) about red dye messing those "electronic diesels" up. red dyed fuel has been ran through my truck and has not been a problem

based of that pdf. i would NOT trust that pump for more than a stock replacement. pressure is a measure of restriction of flow. since the fuel lines etc. are not being changed the resistance should not change. therefor the amount of fuel flowing(or lack of) must be what lowered the PSI. the only good thing is the checkball bypass. but that only helps if the pump goes out, and still might/may damage your VP44

thats what happens when you outsource labor(and why we have an immigration problem). for so long americans want everything at the bottom dollar. the only way left to lower the price is to have it made cheaper(ie having it made where minimum wage laws don't exist). during this last hail storm, i talked to a lot of roofers. several of them told me how insurance companies pay so low, that they have little/no choice but to "contract" illegals. why? they work for less than you or i do.

thanks to the players in charge, there will NEVER be a extreme surplus of fuel. they'll just pump it slower that puts the lube jockeys outta work. but i agree that is how our nation should be. exporting large amounts of wealth is not sustainable or sane too true

seen my mud flaps, huh. that wasn't yosamite. it was tazmanian devil

thats amazing! talk about modern machining.

something about pups. their always fun to watch, but not as fun to take care of. oh well, they'll be house trained in no time, i hope.

isn't that what is a vp44 is? when i bought my truck the lift pump was on its way out. when i changed the fuel filter, i would bump start the truck to fill the canister...5 bumps later and the can was only half full. i got the truck at 128k and it was ~162k before i got the airdog, plus the previous owners miles before mine. these pumps will draw some fuel, just not good on them

thats what she said congrats on the new record. no pics of the pup? won a ar15 in a raffle! thats awesome

some more part #s

some more part #s

the different spray from the 24v injectors may change the power/torque thru the range with the same amount of fuel

does the vp44 have an internal pressure regulator? i thought i read that it does(17psi internal), so i theory the overflow *should* always be open? unless you are emptying the rotor each injection event a fass or airdog system removes all those air bubbles:broke:

my 99's cruise light is green and i cant check any codes:cry: i know, you were asking for 01s, but i couldn't hold back any longer

yes it is for a vehicle with R134a. this chart came out of 1994 honda accord FSM(the first one i had handy). i noticed the 2001 dodge ram FSM didn't list #'s based on humidity, but has a range of acceptable psi/temps.

well, if you are looking at this thread, than your probably don't know about A/C systems, or trying to fix yours. humidity plays a large part in output. THIS CHART IS NOT FOR DODGE RAMs you can see here how humidity can change expected pressures and output of the vent. the percentages on the right is outdoor humidity. i don't want someone to think there A/C is jacked up when its working properly

sticky anyone...i'll add a tidbit. that chart is missing a little info, you should have ambient temp/ humidity and temp out of the vent. high humidity will have warmer air out the vent because some of the "cool" is absorbed as water vapor condenses.

just remember that the folk on the forums are there because they have trouble...you don't typically go to forums on truck repair/maintenance unless you've had a problem or 2. the people that have never had a problem are usually not around or posting.

wow! the wife and i are happy you got it figured out be for it became a target! is there a way to tell the difference on the ecm(ie part #, serial #, opening the case and looking)?

but no one knows if the baldwin is a better filter for my 99.

looking good...so when are we putting that kit together?

that is (nearly) correct. rudolf diesel wasn't the first inventor, but the first to patent it. designed for farmers, cause they could grow there own fuel. it could accept a range of oils by changing the compression ratio(if my history classes serve me well)

235hp and about 460ft lb of torque, assuming it is in good running order. the electronics will keep it in that ballpark. if your VP44 is on the way out, probably less. then manual trans and diff are geared and will transfer that power well as long as its taken care of(ie fluid is full and changed at manufacture's set intervals).