guesswho512

i always avoid the shock perches...i like to put the jack under the leafs and a stand on the other side and remove the jack. i have used the pumpkin but no where close to the cover pan. when i changed the fluid out of the diff, i noticed that it is VERY thick and its never caused me a problem, but if part of the jack landed on the cover it would probably be damaged or warped afterwards.

that is usually called the "death code" for the VP44 injection pump, but is also known to be caused by low fuel pressure from the lift pump(ie low inlet pressure). raptor is similar to the airdog. the only time i personally have had a problem, is when the electrical connections were really corroded from the battery terminals and wasn't getting a good connection. i have heard of a guy that plugged up the filters/pick-up straw after putting on an airdog cause it sucked up some debris from the tank. or you could have a leak... i'm just a shade tree but that's my

did you open the starter up and move the contact closer to the plunger? i had to make the hole longer to get it closer but it worked for longer than i care to admit. it didn't fail after i opened it...but it took me awhile to get around to ordering the kit from larryb. - - - Updated - - - it was better than being stuck

i'll never forget when i was in tulsa i saw an old boy with a titan and goose-neck flat bed that was longer than some cattle trailers. it looked similar to a f-150 with a leveling kit that has 1500lbs in the bed.i guess he could see the "surprised" look on my face cause he came up to talk to me and said " i know what ur thinking, but this trucks got more than enough power". i sayed " i'm sure. the TV says its got 350 HP" and we parted ways. i seen the same guy/truck on the side of US 177 about two weeks later. motor was ok...trans blew up and leaf were broke.:spend:heck i even had a buddy that thought his dakota could handle jobs most 1/2 ton barely qualify for cause they advertised "class leading capacity" or some ____. problem is most ppl don't even think about transmissions, transfer cases, axles, or frame/suspension when they start pulling trailers or boats.

in oklahoma if you get a CDL with an auto trans then you get a restriction on the license for only autos.having said that, lots get a class A with auto then retest in a B truck to remove the restriction. the hardest thing for ppl that have stick shifts in their cars is double clutching. u have to move that foot like a ninja to sink the gears up. a large number of class D vehicles have had sycroed trans for decades but far less on medium and heavy duty vehicles. perfect practice makes perfect, so get your fill

i've never owned a auto car/truck....so there are lots of things i forget to mention.

broken link:evilgrin:

hope it gets u by for a bit

for about 2 yrs now, my blower motor only runs on the fastest setting. the other 3 are like OFF position.

do like i said that way ur truck isn't down. the reason the starter isn't cranking is because one of the contacts is so worn it cannot make the connection. open it out and make the hole that holds the contact on a little longer and reassemble so u can get by for a bit.

sometimes a private message can save u a headache. many of us would have helped you

sometimes a private message can save u a headache

wow, don't hear that 1 to often. is it broken or badly worn? lobes or the gear?

can anyone tell me what u can actually monitor with the SG2...i have a obd2 device that plugs into my laptop, but found 90% of softwares i've tried to be lacking. it seemed that the ecm(on my 99 ram) doesn't send a ton of info to the device. i know some of the problem was the PIDs not being normal because most softwares were great on other vehicles. what parameters can actually be monitored on our trucks with this devise? can it red codes stored in the PCM or ABS systems or only the ECM? thx for the help.

sorry to break your balls but you changed the name of the link,, but its still pointing to the old location...so its still dead. it tries to find mopar.mopar1973man.com...... so basically its still the old link with new text. on a lighter note, its good to be back.

i did like mike and kept the factory fuel filter/ water separator. the airdog 150 makes plenty of PSI that the extra filter don't lower it much if any. the extra filter cannot be a bad think, especially considering the $ of the VP44 injection pump. when i drive thru flood waters like when those tornadoes came thru, u have a light to tell u to drain the water out. - - - Updated - - - plus my factory filter can has the 2 1/8" ports on the top. (some don't)

this is a dead link

perhaps the abs thinks 1 wheel is spinning faster than the others.i would check all the wheel sensors (pull them and visually inspect). pull the pig tail connector apart and check for corrosion.

send it back and get an airdog ....but seriously, take good care of the electrical . the only trouble i've had out of my airdog was when i had the + and - hooked up to the battery terminals and they got real corroded(i've since cut the wire back and relocated them to the PDB). as some1 said before, all pumps push fluid better and easier than pulling it, so mount it on the frame rail to make its life easier.

i put on a BD steering box brace when i changed the OE out due to slop. i really wanted a 3.3 box but went with an o'riely's replacement because money was very tight @ the time. not to mention that i could replace it same day with the lifetime warranty(those stores are on every other corner around here). it drove like a sports car for about 6 months and then the slop slowly returned. i haven't changed it cause i lost all my tools in the divorce but it needs it badly....i guess it has been 3 yrs since i installed it....

my '99 was doing that until last thursday.my clutch has never locked up the entire time i've owned it. i took it off this winter(for better mpgs) and only put it on cause when idling at a long traffic light, the a/c would blow warm air(and on 100*f days would get up to 215*f at long lights during rush hour, my soon to be ex-wife never looks at gauges) .i also bought 1 of the DIY freon chargers from wal-mart and noticed that it was a little low. before it would cycle while idling, but afterwards, when on MAX, it never cuts off.it blows a little colder also. when i was charging it, if i held the RPMs @ 1200 the line barely had 25psi. after a 14oz can of freon, it stays around 35 @ the same RPM

i had similar troubles almost 2 yrs back. it would take 20-30 miles of driving with only work gear loaded to blow warm air thru the vents in tulsa winter(avg. 20-40*f). it would hardly reach 190 even when towing for hrs. after changing the thermostat to a 190*F auto-part store replacement i noticed a big change. warmed up within 10-15 miles. i noticed that it doesn't open the 1st time until about 205*F but after that opens at 195 and closes at 185. i flushed the coolant a few months back and the results were the same after the flush. last week i re-installed the fan/clutch because i noticed idling at long lights that the temps would climb above 215 before i started moving again.i will admit it was a little unnerving to watch my temps hit 205*f the first time after i changed the thermostat after 2yrs of barely seeing 170:ashamed:

the slack adjuster is one that will adjust itself.go to a big empty parking lot and put the vehicle in reverse. start rolling backward and press the brake pedal firmly until u have come to a complete stop. if everything in the drum is working correctly it will have clicked(ie spun) the adjuster by 1 tooth. do that 15-20 times and it should have tightened itself back up

i have seen on other vehicles where branches have ripped the wiring out and destroyed it(most recently on a 2012 kenworth). that would be the only reason i would buy the one with the pigtail