guesswho512

am i wrong in thinking that u would have high egt's when u have a air flow leak? i would consider checking ur exhaust manifold for cracks and the gaskets on both sides of the manifold i don't think a turbo diesel should ever be at 0 psi....that's naturally aspirated....at highway speed:banghead:

any updates?

i had a similar problem a while back. here is the write up i did with pics. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1911-Starter-contact-write-up - - - Updated - - - as i said in the write up...after being stranded a couple times without ordering the contacts i opened up the starter and "wallered" out the contact hole that the stud goes thru to move it closer to the plunger. it was wafer thin but lasted until the contacts arrived...basically the contact was so worn that in no longer made contact. so the i made it closer to make the contact.

the headlight assembly is still intact. i need the turn signal lens assembly and the fender.

hi everybody, after a very trying couple of months, i have internet and i'm very close to having my 99 ram on the road again. sorry i have been away. just in case your wondering what "parked" my ram. during an freeze spell we had, my clutch hydraulics took a crap. i really want to buy SBC "upgraded" clutch hydraulics, but price being a hurdle at the moment, i may purchase an autozone replacement to get it on the road again.i'm also looking for a passenger front fender and a passenger side turn signal lens assembly.missed you guys, and i'm sure to be in flashchat after work.

thanks moparmom that made my day

i have never heard a sound from the block heater, and my coolant is never warmed up. i know it works cause when i fire it up, you can tell a difference. it warms up much faster, less cranking, and just feels better than a frozen motor. my truck spends its days in the driveway and nights working.

guys, the thing to remember is it is a percentage. the faster you go, the more they are off (bigger or smaller) 5% of 100 = 20 but 5% of 200= 40. it is still 5 %, the same with tires, you can only estimate MPG, but speed is easy, look for a radar detector that post your speed. my 31s, i was driving 2mph fast at 25 and 5mph to fast at 60. drive slower for oversize tires to avoid tickets

i usually goto oriellys. we have autozone, oriellys, advanced auto, and napa here in OKC. the NAPA's are few, far between, and overpriced for the same parts(no offense to anyone). the only time i have gone there was to some diesel bio-cyde, and to see if they had the same sell on oil another member in another state had seen(they didn't have the sell at all). advanced auto is usually cheaper a few somethings, but much more on others. so when i need a bunch of stuff, i avoid them. autozone does have rewards, but are usually a dollar or two more for the EXACT SAME item. they also do not turn rotors or drums. for the listed reasons, i do most of my shopping at oriellys. all of them seem to do price matching if it is the same part for the same warranty period.

whoa! i've seen caliper pistons go before it ran thru a side of a rotor!

i also had similar problem as this a while back. i am going to link it for continuity. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1863-front-pads?highlight=brake i have also been sold the wrong rotor before and the store closed for the night before i could make it back up there. i have a beef with NAPA. where i live, there are very few. when a member on this forum tells me they got a certain part for a certain price, local napas tell me that they don't have parts, are not on sell, etc. almost always they are $5 dollars more for the exact same part from orielly's, autozone, advanced auto. i always hear about sells on VALVOLINE PREMIUM BLUE, but when i go to the store its $17 a gallon.(they don't carry prem blue at oriellys(at least here) and on sale price at autozone is 10.99 when walmart's every day low price is 12.00. sorry for the rant, back to your problem. i have only had that problem once on my 99. i think i was the 1st or 2nd pad change since i bought the truck. i suspect that when i was using my "C" clamp to compress the piston, it didn't push dead straight. it put the piston in a bind(i couldn't tell from looking cause it was push almost all the way in and "looked" fine). either push the piston back out or keep trying. just remember that if you take the caliper off, DON"T loose the little copper washer :banghead: hopes this helps

its the brake lights sucking up all the electricity:lmao:but seriously, when my airdog wasn't moving much fuel, it was cause it had trouble getting power(corroded battery terminals). could you(would you wanna) wire a volt/amp gauge at the pump so you could tell if it was a power issue.

so the 98.5-99s do or don't have TM?

there are needle bearings where the input shaft meets the intermediate shaft. and another set where the intermediate shaft meets the output shaftthis sounds real similar to my ranger's problem

don't worry, your secret is safe . would copper grease work as anti seize? can u reuse the flange gasket?does anyone have the torque specs?

well, after working on my ford ranger's 5 speed, i can tell you a couple of things. if it ran out of fluid, the needle bearings over heat and blow out. if you broke a tooth on the input shaft, or any other gear, it will make a awful noise but still drive for a LITTLE while(gear slap as the tooth behind the broken one catches were the missing tooth should have caught. this WILL break teeth on the counter shaft. ). the hardest part of working on transmissions is the specialty tools, but a little fabrication goes a long way. find a transmission parts store(a store that supplies parts to transmissions shops, most have auto or automatic in their name, but deal with all trans parts). take the broken parts in and match them up. i also bought a "refresh kit" with new taper bearings and seals. the needle bearings are expensive, but i got lucky and they had GOOD used ones. i have some pics of the fords tranny opened up if you want to get an idea of what is in the case.hope this helps some

i bought that gauge before. i noticed on the instruction page it says NOT FOR DIESEL....i have been shopping at arbor freight for a LONG time. a large portion of their stuff breaks within the first 5 uses. find your receipt and the will make good. but i was afraid they would not make good seeing as i didn't follow the directions.

do they have a CTS for second gens? the problem i have is most software has very few if any PIDs actually work.

my steering box got real bad last year. i ended up buying a CARDONE reman(as thats all the local part stores carried). it was AWESOME for the 1st 6 months, but slow yet surely the wander is back. it came with a lifetime warrenty. i have not had the time to replace it yet. but had i had the money, i would have with the borgeson box. i think you also have to replace the steering shaft to use it. the deal breaker was the local reman was $169 and the borgeson is $395 + $270 for the shaft. , BUT had i even been close to having the money i would have waited and saved for it.

very nice. you made that?

i put my last $20 in the tank this morning and i payed $3.39 :thud:needless to say the needle moved a little more than 1/8th

ccd and can bus are similar but different. CAN bus is ISO15765-4, and CCD and SCI is J2534 passthru. both are multiplexed bus(meaning it has several signals or data running at the same time thru the same wire, possibly in different directions). my ELM 327 only connects to the dodge using ISO9141-2. the elm 327 does various versions of CAN bus, but i receive a lot of bad data(the buad rate isn't matched, causing the bad data). most OBD2 codes are a pass/fail or true/false. so i still think that the ecm MIGHT get info from the FPCM. i think the ecm would need that info to make the fueling pulse(which is both timing and duration) to make the most power/ meet emission standards. my elm 327 can read spark timing on gassers(obd2 certified ones, that is). here is a link to a slideshow that explains car computers for dummies. pages 23-25 talk about CCD and CAN. https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0ARHyLR2_DBOgZGZwOXA2Z3RfMzJjNzl0NWhmag&hl=en&authkey=CMbFopkK i don't know about anyone's elses ecm, but mine is not fully OBD2 complaint. --- Update to the previous post... i found a pdf that was made by B&B Electronics Manufacturing for a device called Via LDV and says it supports SCI. i could not find the LDV on their site. when i clicked on a similar device it redirected me to www.autotap.com and to quote a page about PCM flashing: has anyone used a CUMMINS INLINE?

are you gents saying that the 98.5-99 24valve doesn't have torque man? i think the only electrical plug on my manual trans is for the reverse lights. how would the ecm.pcm know what gear i am in? how would larger/smaller tires or different ring and pinion effect torque man?

lmao

the only time i had a problem with my airdog, was when the corrosion on the battery terminals was bad enough to give a weak connection. i don't have a gauge in the cab, so it may be normal.