guesswho512

i believe that the fass ddrp is better than carter but still as a low GPH. if i was going to spend that much...i would(and did) spring for the full system. the 95-100series in both flavors will suit the needs of the vast majority. the only reason i went for the 150 series is because they were the exact same price.

can some explain to me what it is that make my lights suck. the bulb, the lens? if the grids are not hitting...there should be plenty of power,right? could i pillage something from the bone yard and retro fit it into my lens assembly? or is brightbox the only "legal" solution

is the trans auto or stick? you might be able to swap the output shaft and tail housing to make your trans ready for a transfer case

almost a year ago...i saw a tv show(trucks!, or 2guys garage, maybe). they showcased a product the took the yellow out of the lens. it was a device that chucked into a drill. u "polished" a slight layer off the lens and then applied their chemical to it. on the show it worked wonders.i have been trying to figure out what to do about lighting also as every other car out shine mine and if i keep driving while holding the brights on...i'm gonna blow the switch

that is cool. i hope he fixes his problem and registers to the forum. i've heard from multiple people that this is the best site for vp44 rams.:iagree:and tell anyone who drives a cummins to stop in and look

that is pretty good.i recently hit a personal best at the beginning of this month. the tank of fuel was from new station. 85% highway @1500-1800rpm with 2stoke 493.9miles/25.5gal=19.36MPG but oversized tires corrected to 557.5miles/25.5gal=21.8MPG! this is the first time i have been across the 20mpg mark. i am kinda surprised because my last personal best was 18.2 and my average is 16-17.5 with stoke driving almost exactly as listed above. ohh the last 2 tanks have been back to average

5 yrs ago i had a ford ranger that grenaded a trans while driving 70+ down the turnpike. i bought a salvaged trans and made my first ever car repair(by myself might i add). same situation, no concrete. only gravel. the swap went all right...but i learned a valueble lesson. when reassembling things that have been outdoors....get it extra clean.some grit got on the slip yoke and it put a very slight taper on the yoke and ate that back brass bushing. i didn't find that out until i had already changed the rear seal twice. it ended up costing $800 to have the local trans shop change the yoke,bushing,and rear seal. had i known a fraction of what i know now it would have only cost ~$50. long story short. when working on gravel or outdoors, make sure its clean!

its cool to roll coal, but please don't smoke pedestrians. that is not cool and gives diesels bad public image. when you finish your mod please link some pics or video

i do not think i have a prob with blow-by...i think it might be the off road thing. i posted some pics of an oily mess a while ago...i cleaned it up and it hasn't come back. and i haven't been around the hunting lease either. when i bought this truck at 125k it didn't have a puke bottle(and didn't appear to have a mount for it). i thought about putting a bottle on until i read about all the problems associated with them. i had extended the hose with some drop bury pipe, but that eventually fell of. i would like to keep the trans free from gunk...so how long is too long for the hose?

is there an id tag on the axle? it is a short piece on one the the diff pan bolts. it will id the axle and give your gear ratio ---------- Post added at 02:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:28 PM ---------- if you take a pic of the diff pan...i can probably id it

the wife and i are praying for you jl. stuff like that always happens to me also. i used to joke that murphy has a spot in my truck, and rides along to make my life "enjoyable"

as mopar1973man has shown...disconnecting batteries does NOT clear the CEL...you have to use a code reader...any generic one should do.

mine moves around...starts high when cold and goes down when warm. goes up with rpms. but i still think its a dummy gauge(ie it is based off other things, like coolant temp and rpm, not actual pressure)

i agree completely. i was trying to be funny. that is why our motors have all those sensor/electronics, to match air with proper amount of fuel. and why when you buy a turbo, they wanna know what injectors you have

i don't know if it is just Cummins Southern Plains or not, but after both purchases(box of fleetgaurd filters and mopar's oring and shim's) they called me on my cell and asked a short questionnaire. it took less then 2 minutes and was done by a third party company. if i was you i would complain. #14 says "for sale" "yes".

russ, old farm steads are a treasure trove. during rabbit season i often find a lot of those boogers there. cottontails and swamp usually. not to mention the interesting scrap. although, one time on indian land, i asked an old man if he minded if i went and looked at one(fallen stead). he told me not to. the last tenants he rented to were cooking meth in there! your last pic reminds me of a joke. the tallest trees in OK are telephone polls!isx, hogs are possibly the smartest animals...even smarter than dolphins. they can escape from any cage if they get their minds on it. they will eat ANYTHING. wild hogs are a nuisance and usually have a very lenient hunting laws. in OK because they destroy so much, there is no season, limit, license, or check-in needed(as long as your hunting on private land). if the land owner raises hogs. they will almost let you hunt for nothing! because cages do little to stop a wild boar, they will break in to mate the farmer's females.

nah...he just needed more fuel!

something similar happened to me. i started on the passenger side...knocked it outta the park. then moved over to the drivers side. i got the old ones out and realized the upper was different then the one i just put in on the passenger side. it was WAY smaller and looked like it had already been pressed about halfway. o'reilly swapped it out, but i think the manager could see me boiling. since my tierod ends were toast...and no money to change them...i never completely removed the spindle/knuckle.are you saying those ball joints have threads to twist on and off? cause mine had little ridges running up and down for biting for pressing

during an ice storm 3 yrs ago, i got a leak in the brake light on the cab. the headliner was wet. a little silicone and never a prob since.

i use wd40 to clean the silicone off my knife and splicing tools. works well for that, but those badges are held on with more than silicone

where are the pin ups? i thought we would see some TAILgate. lol

it seems that when i talk to professionals, they always give be the dum look. they ALWAYS say to use "power service". but i know the truth

good improvising...i hope you have a safe and uneventful trip!

p0743 is torque converter clutch solenoid/trans relay circuits....have you checked the harness? i believe that solenoid is on the other side of the valve body...have you had the alternator tested? you had this code listed previously. is it possible it is just stored but not pending?

nice look. are you saying that the left gauge is both pyro and boost. is that a button at the bottom the toggle? i had never thought about digital gauges until now. simple to read.