guesswho512

goes to show everyone how important a compression test is. what brand head gasket did you go with. was it a stock replacement or a thicker one? did you follow the torque instructions for the head bolts?

goes to show everyone how important a compression test is. what brand head gasket did you go with. was it a stock replacement or a thicker one? did you follow the torque instructions for the head bolts?

i remember once when ISX was experimenting for faster warm up times. he had taken copper tubing and ran it around his exhaust, i memory serves. the problem was that the coolant was around the heat source long enough to pull much heat from it. maybe the VP44 is in the same boat. fuel pumps thru it so fast, it doesn't have enough time to pull heat from the pump.

looks real nice, but do you have to remove the grid heaters? looks like that one is pretty tall

no adjustments on the edge elbow. i found it useful, as my wastegate was opening early. i have no boost fooling. if i get into the throttle it sets overboost code, but no .

i bought mine from thoroughbred diesel when i bought my airdog from them

well its has been a week. the power is smoother and comes on lower in the RPM range. i don't have a boost gauge, but i felt like the turbo wasn't spooled until 1800-1900RPM. it feel like it "lights" at 1600 RPMs now. still not enough time to tell about MPG but i DO NOT think it is any quieter...my coworkers joke that i cannot sneak in our out of the yard without anyone/everyone knowing.

i ran the valves last fall(about 165k miles) and set them at .010 on intake and .020 on exhaust. after fixing a loose rocker bolt, i ran them again(~195k) and set them at .007 intake and .017 on the exhaust. the power is smoother and comes on lower in the RPM range. i don't have a boost gauge, but i felt like the turbo wasn't spooled until 1800-1900RPM. it feel like it "lights" at 1600 RPMs. they were all wider then .010 on intake and .020 on exhaust when i ran them this last time read more here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2923-runnin-the-valves?p=23211#post23211

those 2 are the same.

if anyone has a Playstation3. my screen name is.....GuessWho512send me a friend request. i have been playing MODERN WARFARE 2 since i got it last week(i cannot put it down!)but play a # of others

the APPS stands ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR. it is similar to a TPS or THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

were is the link SASQCH?

i am also looking for one....let me know what you find

how would you be able to tell? they look fine..... even though the cheap's were not rated for my truck they are a 100% fit. no play or anything like that. they just wear down faster. i haven't tried pads for higher GVW, only lower...but have thought about looking at the one's rated for 10500 GVW

i have the same problem with my 99 ram. local rotors were $160 each. after changing 3 of them, i now do a routine check just for the pads. the drum shoes last way, way longer than the pads. you can read (http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1863-front-pads?highlight=) this thread to see my part of my problem. long story short, i was going into the part store, telling them what my truck is, and taking the lower end of $. come to find out that, at some part stores, they don't list 8800GVW pads under 2wd trucks. they had been selling me pads rated for 7500 or 7700 GVW.

i look at some thread inserts at ACE HARDWARE. they were over $5 for 1 the size i needed( M8x1.25). and you had to drill the hole for it using a 27/64th bit over helicoil's size of 21/64th. i was also worried about it backing out, since i have no xp at this.the 2 shops i called wanted to remove the head and use the kind of insert that you had to counter sink....sound to price for me at the moment.

after dealing with my problem(http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2966-i-need-advice) i ran the valves and set them to .008 and .017 after a quick 8-10mile lap around, i can tell a difference...now mind you, i had one way out of spec...but no damage and smooth sailing....will report back in a few days

well...the longer bolt worked, no heli-coil needed...the only thing that has me worried is it was a slightly longer, slightly weaker bolt. had a bent push rod also...lined up all the valves to .008 and .017i don't know about being quieter...but the power is smoother. before it felt like the turbo wasn't spooled until 1800-2k and was a tree legged dog above 2200 rpm. probably cause that #2 rocker... it had so much play....i hope myself or anyone else has to go thru that crap again.

i found a longer bolt, but it is a grade weaker than the current one(10.9 vs 12.9). the bolt is M8 x 1.25. picked up a heli-coil kit also. will see what happens tomorrow

after i removed the exhaust rocker the pedistool came right off. you could see all kinds of metal...the old threads...there is a oil passage right next the said hole. it looks like there are a bunch of good threads. looks like with the pedistool the bolt only grabs a small amount of threads. if the bolt were a 1/4" longer it might be all good...so after waiting for a ride...i'm off to find either a longer bolt and/or a helicoil. does anyone know what bolt size/thread this is?

heli-coil is the name i needed...thx --- Update to the previous post... what is the shop time on that?

you mean there could be more in there? i thought the threads ripped out

so my truck as been running like a dog. i thought it was just me, but my wife drove the truck yesterday and said so. so i went to preform an inspection and run the valves as i planned(http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2923-runnin-the-valves). the #2 intake rocker was real loose. i loosed the jam nut(which was really tight) and went to tighten the rocker screw and it just gave the rest of the way.....just my luck! how do i fix this?

i feel like i'm not being heard. even at 0.15 is in cummins approved specs. this is not a made up #. my quotes are straight from the 2001 Factory Service Manual.another thing to think about. every time i have ran my valves, they are the same gap or loose. i have never had the gap shrink(i don't run the valves on a hot motor). it always "loosens" up. the engineers and scientist make the specs. the fact that SASQCH had CUMMINS do his first lash and they set it at .008in and .017ex says to me, either they know it will loosen with time or that there is some benefit to running them a little tight. :2cents:now i probably won't run .006in and .015ex but i find it strange the FSM says, "Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise." when everyone immediately reports that their trucks are quieter.

not arguing here, but you are till in cummins official specs between INTAKE 0.006in and EXHAUST 0.015in i would say there is little to no danger if your truck is STOCK. if your head or block have been decked, you have a custom cam, etc. then at the INs .010 EXs .020 they are not true anyway