rancherman

sometimes, I can 'feel' the difference in the fuel line themselves. Each pulse should feel like a 'zing' under your fingertips.. and a blocked injector will make the fuel line more like a 'thud'.. highly unscientific... but I've found more than one this way over the years. This is just placing your fingertip on the line somewhere... preferably before you loosen any fittings.. (to make sure you aren't going to get hurt)

so you think this is good, or a waste of time? If the loosening isolates a cylinder, It doesn't necessarily mean burnt valve, piston,.. it doesn't even eliminate a bad IP... It only tells you which hole he needs to inspect. THEN, a compression test will tell you if something isn't kosher down below.. If good compression, then it's gotta be in the fuel.

I'd go with the compression test first.. Ok, do this first: Old trick.. loosen (one at a time) fuel line connection at each injector. (be very very careful here, don't need a finger cut in 2 by HP fuel spray)... and listen for a change in the engine. When you DON'T hear a change, you've at least isolated the correct cylinder. I'd shut off the engine to tighten the fitting up... then go on to the next one. You'll then know which hole is dead, and that's the one I'd compression test.

Ok, pretty good idea now where to weld in some mounting iron.. Next question! I got the 'light kit' in a box for this flatbed.. whole bunch of oval reds, oval clear(white) small round red and amber a ready made harness to string out and hook up.. NO MENTION OF WHERE THE REDS AND AMBERS GO!!! So, picture this: front corner of flatbed (you'd see it in the mirror shining straight ahead) gets a 'red'??? The sides of the deck front and rear get amber?? The rear is a no brainer.. all red or white ovals. The headache rack has it's own special shaped lights.. easy peasy.

Nikon Coolpix, We really like the camera, but the dang battery/SD card door is poorly made.. the latch system sucks. For Wife's portrait work, Hasselblad. (7 of them on the moon if ya want to get em)

nice assortment.. AMC, Plymouth, Olds, Dodge, Pontiac...

so, to all the flatbed owners out there.. Where do you have your mudflaps hanging? Close to the rear tires, or further back. My mudflaps are are hard plastic (recycled 'something') and pretty stiff. they are 2X3 foot. I'll probably trim them a little. If I mount them right behind the rear duals, say 4-5 inches back of the tire, It'll keep crap off the tailpipe... but there is always the concern of ripping them off whilst backing up in mud... Semi driver friend warned me about that.. If I mount them towards the back of the bed, then the exhaust may melt the flap.. the flap would only be 5-6 inches away from the exhaust flow. Thanks for any advice!

gotcha. Starting batts are more for massive 'unload' of amps, whereas deep cycle types are for slow long term discharge.

yep. Interested! lemme get through harvest here, and we'll make a deal! shoot me a pm if my mind slips.. say within a month? I'll call Keith @ GDE and see about buying yours, and what (if anything) needs to be done to erase your old tune, to load mine. They are VIN protected. You wouldn't by chance also have the cam locking tool? GET THIS EVERYBODY~~~ the VM engine in our Jeep doesn't use any positive key to lock the cam gears onto the camshafts... strictly a friction fit, not even tapered!!! I had problems wrapping my head around the 12v cummins doing the same with the IP.

every piece of heavy equipment I own has at least 2 12's. some have 4. all in parallel. and they are 800 amps each. They typically cost me about 140-150 bucks I don't fool around with multifple 6's, Last set up I had oem was a 1964 JD 4010.. which has long been converted to 12v system. why do I suppose 6 volt battery is deeper draw than 12v?? I don't know. why don't cha 'splain it to all of us. BTW, I was originally talking about 'cranking amps', not Ahrs. I've no Idea what 'capacity' my batts have (amp/hrs) Still, I did a quick search to see if anyone else asked this basic electrical law.. yep. series connected batts = double the volts, and parallel connected batts = double the ampere hours. It's pretty common question in the yachting/home wind/solar charging forums. ......... Of course, I blurted all this out before I realized WHAT KIND OF BATTERY you all were talking about. apparently, there is more than one kind of batt.. Here I go, comparing oranges and apples again. never mind.

when you double the 6's (in series) which gives you 12v, ..... the amps stay the same. ( say each battery has 800 amps) then total for the 2 batteries is still 800 amps When you double the 12's (in parallel) the volts stay the same and if each battery is say 650 amps then the system will then be 1300 amps. I'd go 12 parallel any day of the week.

Thanks Man! I joined up @ Lostjeeps.com, and been getting educated! Looks like I need to stock up on window regulators (both fronts are now propped up with pvc pipe) awaiting new regulators, then the better metal clips which are the problem... Thermostat is shot.. looking very seriously at a 'tune' from GDE for eliminating the egr.. .......... So, I have a few projects before ol'man winter sets in! So far, the trans doesn't seem to have the infamous TC shudder.. Still have some time/miles to go before the timing belt replace.. After all the wrecks my wife has been in, I've been pretty nervous on buying 'yet another scrap yard graduate''......! So we've been toyota'ing 3 wide in the 94 pickup the last year... It was TIME for something with 4 doors! *only time the Ram moves, is when there is an actual 'payload'.. (cows or hay)

a hole saw in a drill press should make a nice hole.. And I'd bet the raw edge would be a great place for the chrome film to start peeling I was going to suggest buying a set of ebay knockoffs to modify.. (hubcaps) I see a set of 4 for 60 bucks http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-RAM-2500-TRUCK-VAN-16-CHROME-Wheel-Center-Hub-Caps-8-Lug-Bolt-Nut-Rim-Covers-/221186997588?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337fc5bd54&vxp=mtr

ummmm, which 'jeep' did you have?

Endure B O L A...

I just knew the second I hit 'enter' with that last post.... I was doomed. Thanks Yankneck for pointing out the obvious.

I vote for air in the line. So, not really a 'knock' but a partially dead cylinder. Not enough fuel to quite light it up, but enough to make white smoke. The longer the injection line, such as #6, the harder it is for it to 'blow out' the air.. It's really hard to 'hear' (for me) the tell tale signs on a video clip..

I like the pic with the Dodge sitting by the tower.

Nice find Will. Up 'here' in the snow belt, finding a first gen that still has a cab w/o holes large enough to fall out of, is impossible! ......... main reason I sent my son to New Braunfels (N. San Antonio) last month for my Jeep... (the day before they got flooded)

Up until the 80's Chrysler engine plant would machine the engine blocks and bellhousing as a mated pair. The line boring part anyways. The pilot hole for the rear of the bellhousing was perfect inline with the main bores of the engine... Then that bellhousing would stay with the engine through assembly, and final transmission mounting. So, years later, when this engine got separated from that transmission, swapped into a different vehicle, I'd measure the runout Mopar sold offset dowel pins to correct for variances. I've had to deal with .030 runout on some Makes for a very chattery clutch engagement!! So yes, I'll measure 'that' kind of stuff

I agree with tom.. it's not just the motor that needs 3D power. Timers, switches, water valves... Phase convertors will pretty much chew up the efficiency of running 3 legged power.. but still, the machine as a whole should make up for it.. They DON'T make em like that anymore!! If you really need a industrial washer, then yes! go for it. Propane conversion usually is a snap. gas valves are the same, just need the correct 'jets' and adjust the air. If it's a pilot lighted then you'll probably need the right orifice, and main burner too, or it could be simple as an adjustable air intake. (you'll need a gas man to verify/do it )

End of winter, early spring is the best time for pricing a 4X4.. This time of year, EVERYONE IS THINKING SNOW! Let him sit on it, he may get back to you! People see the 'cute' little truck, and think; PERFECT! Just what I need for getting around this winter.. (and keep the Escalade parked in the garage)

hmmm, make sure you use the proper gear oils, It takes the same GL for both the transmission and transfer case. (in case the seal goes bad between them) You will be amazed at the vacuum tube maze on top of the engine. 99% of it is for the egr system... which works fine... until there is a leak in one of the many hoses... There is detailed info on yotatech.com on how to remove it all. I still have mine in place, and no problems. I had my Yo home for 2 months when the head gasket let go. Thinking back, I'm pretty sure the lil truck was overheated from PO 1. scratch marks over the hood told me someone ran it through a fence 2. brand new radiator 3. brand new front bumper So, I found out real quick, you must not overheat these buggers! I pulled the engine, replaced the head with an aftermarket one (250 bucks for a loaded head) and 100 bucks for a little hotter cam. New clutch while I was in that deep, I put in a set of rebuilt injectors too, and new head bolts. I figured the head was warped, because as soon as I took it off the block, the cam didn't turn very freely. So, right off the bat, I had about 700 bucks tied up into it. Been singing like a sewing machine ever since. The ONLY problematic area on the 22re is the timing chain tensioner. The slack side portion is plastic, and tends to bust off, which then gets ground up, which then plugs the intake screen on the oil pump. The aftermarket has come up with a metal version which eliminates this. Hopefully, the engine builder who recently did yours put in this upgrade. Otherwise, expect the old style plastic to last about 50-70k miles. You'll know when it's busted, the chain slap will be pretty loud, and will eventually wear through the timing case. Speaking of Oil pressure, don't be alarmed when the idle pressure goes to near zero when hot. 5 psi is all Japan said is needed! Mine runs about mid gauge for pressure at highway speed, and drops to less than 1/4 gauge at idle. It moves quite a bit between the idle and 3000 rpm. One thing you'll notice when working on this vehicle... there is NO 'impossible' fastener that can't be reached with basic tools.. No special high dollar wrenches or sockets, and they made sure just about every bolt is accessible from the ground.. Ok, you'll cuss a little when it's time to spin off the oil filter.. but it's doable from the topside. (or through the boo boo hatch on the passenger side inner fenderwell.) I use a paper clip to short out the 2 terminals to set the basic engine timing... 5* is all she needs, the computer does the rest with it's knock sensor.

Dude, get em out and at least tested.... then you can decide which way to roll. a test shouldn't cost too much, last set I took in was 'free', only because I paid them for going through the pump, and parts (springs and shims ) for the nozzles... "test only" should be less than 100 bucks? I believe you found your cause of the original problem.

Spring of this year, I sent my son up to Great Falls Montana, via bus (great dad eh?) to bring home an online find. It's a 1994 Toyo pickup, 5 speed, ( I don't think they even offered an automatic with the 4 cyl. I believe you needed to get a T100 ) and 4X4. only thing it doesn't have is AC. 187k miles, and I paid 4500. I figured I paid about 1000 bucks more than the average, but the lack of rust was the tipping point. It was impossible to find one around 'here' or points east that wasn't daylighted with rust! Good used vehicles are going to cost! I never would've dreamed a 20 YO Japanese vehicle would cost 4500.. This is what you can expect; 19 winter mpgs, and on a really GOOD summer day, 25 mpg. Keep the hubs unlocked. Don't lug the lil buzz bomb, keep her buzzing. Would I do it again? for me, yes. I paid the same for this toyo as a decent 4 wheeler... and IT'S GOT A HEATER AND RADIO!! You'll see these listed for about 2500 for a trashed out beat to heck 200k ... up to 14,000 for a tricked out rock crawler. Your 4000 is about right.