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Posted

I've been traveling a lot, 8 out of the last 9 weeks in LA (by the way I hate LA).  I got the Adrenaline last Friday which was the first day id been home in 3 weeks, then left Monday morning to go back.  I didn't get a whole lot of time to play with it but I had to have the fuel on the CAN bus way up to get smoke, i believe outside the green area.  Pretty excited to get home and play with it this weekend. 

 

Like i said before I really don't understand the timing portion but i think i understand the fuel portion.  So i will most definitely be posting up what i find do and find for your advice.  

Posted

Meh the timing isn't difficult once you play with it.   

 

 

Fuel load = how much timing is added as a result of canbus reaching max.  IE if you have your 1500 rpm setting at 16* and your fuel load at 2* then you will get 14* at 0 canbus, 14.5* at 1000 canbus, 15* at 2000 canbus 15.5 at 3000 and 16* at 4095

 

timing reduction is how much timing to pull max if you %100 throttle at 0  psi.  as throttle reduces or boots climbs you will get a ^% of TPS reduction pulled from the rpm limit timing - fuel load

 

See the green timing line,  see how it drops when I go %100 throttle. how much it drops is your tps reduct

 

OD Pull 7x012.PNG

 

light load timing is how much timing to add on top of your rpm timing so again 1500 rpm 16* light load at 2* 

 

if canbus is 0 then you get the full 2* on top so you get 18*  cnabus at 1000 then you get 17.5* canbus at 2000 then you get 17* 300 you get 16.5* and 16* if cnabus is at 4095

 

load limit set the limit for load % for light load timing to enable.  below that you get your light load timing, above that you get fuel load and tps reduct. 

 

 

tps scaling simply allows you to make the timing drop as if it was 5*, but limit total drop to 2.5*. 

 

 

clear as mud ?

Posted

Thanks for the lesson.  I think my biggest problem is i don't know the basics on how the timing works.  I know hire timing at continuous low throttle like cruising increase MPG.  However where my knowledge is poor is what is dangerous and when and what creates more power. 

 

I have a lot of reading to do to get educated.  

Thanks.  I did some comparison of the injector numbers and figured that those mid tunes were for 100hp plus trucks which put my 50hp right in the middle.  

 

Once again thanks for wverything your doing.  I can't wait to get back home and start learning.  

Posted
On 10/9/2017 at 3:10 PM, Me78569 said:

add more timing   each truck is a little different.  Mikes truck likes ~23* of timing at 65 mind likes 19.5-20* at 65  Keep walking up your cruise timing by .5* until you start the feel the truck have a "lul" when you go into cruise state.  egts should also come down the closer you come to opitiomal timing.  

 




However 17 at 80 is not bad.   I would ask your friend for some proof pudding.  

I did what you suggested to change on my mpg tune and now I’m getting 14.59 instead of the 16.9 I was getting ? it did not like that! I’ll have to fiddle with it some more 

Here is my timing while cruising going 80mph 

CEA387A8-EA93-4502-AC7D-738FF74D41A6.jpeg

  • Owner
Posted

You'll notice a few things... EGT's will be lower, Coolant temperature will be higher about 5*F than typical. Boost will be lower and engine load will be lower as well. 

 

I did something crazy and towed my RV back from Parma, ID without dropping my tune or changing. I left it at my current settings. Really wild to see the changes. I towed home at 55 MPH in 4th gear on grade and 5th on the flats. EGT's were considerably cooler climbing grade with cruise set I'd never even reach 1,100*F at 20-25 PSI of boost but held my set speed no problem. Engine coolant was notably higher Flat running was 198-202*F and climbing grades it topped out at 210*F still within the normal realm but EGT's never got even close to 1,200*F ever. Pulling power was super strong and exhaust was still fairly smoke free. 

 

Here is my current tune... Still pretty steep timing but still doing rather well will MPG's. 

iQuad-Economy-2017-10-13-02.37.072107239207.json

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
40 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Engine coolant was notably higher Flat running was 198-202*F and climbing grades it topped out at 210*F

 

Interesting. So there was less heat wasted out the exhaust pipe, more heat soak on the pistons, raising coolant temps. TGFHS (Thank Goodness For Head Studs). Million dollar question is how much of that heat is the result of negative torque?

Posted
On 10/9/2017 at 3:10 PM, Me78569 said:

add more timing   each truck is a little different.  Mikes truck likes ~23* of timing at 65 mind likes 19.5-20* at 65  Keep walking up your cruise timing by .5* until you start the feel the truck have a "lul" when you go into cruise state.  egts should also come down the closer you come to opitiomal timing.  
 

When I’m at 80mph I’m at 18.5 degree of timing. When I go to bump that up to 19 or 20 do I change my cruising adv. by .5 or do I up my rpm timing for that rpm I will be at? I’m a bit confused on that. I’ve changed one or the other and haven’t noticed any change in timing 

Posted
19 hours ago, Youngblood24v said:

When I’m at 80mph I’m at 18.5 degree of timing. When I go to bump that up to 19 or 20 do I change my cruising adv. by .5 or do I up my rpm timing for that rpm I will be at? I’m a bit confused on that. I’ve changed one or the other and haven’t noticed any change in timing 

Light load/throttle  timing is how you raise your cruise timing. But you need to be sure your rpm timing is also in range of where you want to be. 

  • Owner
Posted (edited)
On 10/13/2017 at 3:19 PM, kzimmer said:

 

Interesting. So there was less heat wasted out the exhaust pipe, more heat soak on the pistons, raising coolant temps. TGFHS (Thank Goodness For Head Studs). Million dollar question is how much of that heat is the result of negative torque?

 

On 10/13/2017 at 3:40 PM, Me78569 said:

@Mopar1973Man is a rebel,  I dont thikn he has studs hahahaha

 

Ummm... Stock head bolts... No leaks... 

 

Change up again on my tune again I came down a degree in cruise timing and changed my span of timing over RPM again. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
Posted (edited)

@rogerash0

 

The tunes are in this thread or in the tune repository

 

https://mopar1973man.com/forum/185-standard-quadzilla-adrenaline-tunes/

 

I believe my tune is in there.  However my tune is will  not be well suited to a lot of guys given that I am up at very high altitude compared to most.  the control of fueling with big boy injectors is key.   The lack in tuning up until this point with V2 is the only reason why you can't make large injectors be DD friendly.  Even guys with a stock hx35 I would say should run at least 7 x .010's if they have a good way to control them.    We are still asking for max duration up top, plus wiretap, but limited the total amount of fuel down low.  There is no need for mass amounts of fuel offidle.  

 

My current tune with the 7 x .012's AKA 200 +- 50 hp  has a starting point of %65 of stock duration.   This makes the fueling map and throttle resolution very nice.  I have a lot more room in the map to play with that guys running an edge or similar.   

Edited by Me78569
  • Thanks 1
Posted

That's so cool. U said this less than 100% fueling mapping was only available as of recent with the v2? I need to sell the edge already. Any chance I can use the edge sensors to still monitor drive and intermediate boost pressure?

Posted

 

hmmm.. good reason to keep the edge I suppose, so I can atleast peek at those pressures when I have big injectors, instead of not knowing. I'll just have to swap tuners. If you could also enable me to use the edge's sensors, hardwired if I had to, that would be great. Ie. not lock us down on only proprietary sensors.

 

Thanks for the helpful information ^^

Posted

lol The edge sensors are propietary I am sure,  they appear to use a bus of sorts to communicated.  

 

I have my fuel pressure sensor connected for drive pressure now.  Sub fueling, or sube oem commands are only possible with the quadzilla and UDC pro.  

 

Nothing new was discovered it was just that no one had ever really written the tunes to allow for the user to do so.  

Posted (edited)

they are overpriced, thats for sure. I was on amazon looking at pressure sensors that took the same style plug, same reference voltage (5v maybe) if I recall correctly. I think they were in the range of $15-$25. A reviewer said it worked with the edge for awhile. Made me wonder if the system logged it & they caught it on the back end when he plugged his tuner into the computer for an update one day. They caught a different serial number or whatever and banned it, persay.

Quote

 Sub fueling, or sube oem commands are only possible with the quadzilla and UDC pro.  
Nothing new was discovered it was just that no one had ever really written the tunes to allow for the user to do so.

 

No one had ever written tunes /w sub fueling (I assume by that you mean lower than stock values), or no one had ever released a tuner to allow the user to do so?

Edited by rogerash0
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

 

No one had ever written tunes /w sub fueling (I assume by that you mean lower than stock values), or no one had ever released a tuner to allow the user to do so?

Yes, the ablity to pull fuel down has always been there.  You can ask for any fueling command from 0 -4095.  everyone prior did oem fueling + tuning = output fueling.

 

Rather than oem fueling * user defined %

 

the issue with edge sensors is they are not the standard 0-100 psi 5v reference sensor. they are 0-30 or something

Edited by Me78569
Posted

In their software it shows em as 0-100. I can get a screenshot for u sometime. I may say on the sensor too. I know I have an untouched fuel one in the living room, but I wouldn't expect that to be 0-100 but will look tmrw 

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