Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

High amp alternator


Recommended Posts

  • Owner

Even the youtube I post tells the same thing the batteries will suppress some of the AC noise like a capacity but the problem remains that the AC noise still runs down the rest of the electrical system. The whole problem is the diodes overheat and fail and then the AC noise is started. How do we prevent the diodes from overheating when your dropping 95A or 190A load against an idling alternator? Rather a tough problem. But I still have a hard time thinking back why did my truck run fine for over 10 years and never replace an alternator in 10 years? Something has changed... That's the problem I can't prove the load issue on the grid heater right at this moment nor the diode overheat issue. Can't tell me every reman'ed alternator is junk too. 

 

Kind of like my ABS light issue can't tell me changing 3 sets of sensors and still got the light on means the sensors are bad. Something has changed. (Wheel bearing failed / tone ring failure)

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

 

I don't think purely resistive loads "wear out".    They are either open (broken) or shorted.  They can lose their efficiency (ability for heat transfer) , but this comes more from contaminants on the outside of the elements.  (think of an electric water heater...  mineral deposits on the outside of the elements.  so a hot water heater has to run longer to bring the same amount of water to a temperature)   (it is interesting,  I will try and talk with an electrical engineer buddy, but could it begin to develop inductance over time, therefore not behaving purely resistive....)

 

Anyway, I think the place for "load"  to "change" in this system, would be the contacts in the grid heater relays themselves.  I can envision that the contacts become poorer and poorer over time (increasing the impedance (resistance)) causing the "grid heaters" to pull more amperage than normal.   IT is very tough to measure high DC amps easily.  (though some of the new clamp on claim to measure DC current, I have yet to play with one to see.)

 

I just had a grid heater relay failure, so I hope to update you guys with some pictures and better testing soon.

 

Hag

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Another awesome article, thank you.

I did notice some galvanic corrosion on my bracket last time I had alternator removed. I cleaned everything and used dielectric grease which is probably not the best choice when you trying to make connection better not worse. That brings another question, this ox-gard used for electrical connections, is it conductive or non-conductive, because if it's conductive you would only want to use it on a single connection not a multi plug. My intention with dielectric grease is to tip corrosion away, and if the surface is clean it will still make a great contact. Just thinking out loud here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

i'm pointing at a great sticky article up there:thumb1: Thank you W-T.

 

In talking with W-T on the phone last Thursday, I think there is a whole other aspect that is related to our Lift Pumps from Raptor/ Air Dog. Just have to wait till he gets some rest for the next chapter.

 

:popcorn:

Edited by JAG1
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎1‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 5:25 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

But I still have a hard time thinking back why did my truck run fine for over 10 years and never replace an alternator in 10 years? Something has changed... That's the problem I can't prove the load issue on the grid heater right at this moment nor the diode overheat issue.

 

I have also wondered why I have not experienced some of the electrical problems that many others have.  I bought my truck new and right away I put the grid heaters on a manual control switch.  I very rarely use the heaters.  And, like you, my alternator (a Bosch) has never given me trouble.  I replaced brushes and bearings (only for maintenance, the alternator was working fine) three years ago at 216,000 miles.  I am currently at 285,000 miles and the alternator passes your AC voltage test.  I never tested for AC output until I came across your website and I will be keeping a close eye from now on.

 

- John

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

Mopar Man mentioned this in a phone conversation saying that deterioration of the relays or grids, when our trucks get a bit older, causing excessive amperage draw are two possible reasons the alternator diodes start getting hot and burning. Now we know about a further combined effect from poor grounding of the alternator.

 

Another concern I have is the 4 sensor ground wires connected by only heat shrink tubing with the wires just laying on a main ground wire inside the harness right in front of the injection pump. There are no crimped connectors other than the 4 wires being squeezed by shrink tubing.

 

See pics on Turbo Diesel Register forum under Second Gen Engine and Transmission. Thread topic is,'' 1999 3500 w/ TC Lock Unlock Problem''. Look at posts 11-15. Mopar Man says no big deal but it did solve this guys transmission hunting even after 25,000 miles.

 

Sorry, I tried to do  a link but didn't work.

Edited by JAG1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@JAG1 Good catch on additional information. After speaking with you on the phone today I believe we both started looking at this. Yes...Turbo Diesel Register member AKGriz has a 1999 3500 and his info is valid however; The production changed and my photo shows a little different evidence.IMG_0231.JPG.804f913513a7e705e4ab20abd4071b81.JPGThis is my "2001" CTD and it appears after two years, the assembly procedure depicts full shrink-tubing and note.... the sealed ends.

 

I'm not giving this a pass and I'm going to surgically open this up and inspect the wire to wire splice. Done correctly all four wires should be soldered to the #8 black/tan stripe that comes out of this large harness way over on the passenger side. 

 

Guys...I'm so sorry to become side tracked with additional issues and observations but, WHY in the world would an Engineer run nearly 38 inches of wire across the front of the engine, terminate this single #8 into a connector on the battery box, pick up this connection with a mated-connector that is another "splice" at the negative terminal of the passenger side battery and the "spliced" connector is then mated to an additional run of #10 that is a dedicated ground at the PCU ???  I'm astonished to see this. :doh:

 

The four black wires...3 are #18 Gage... 1 is #14 Gage all are black with a lite Tan or off white stripe.IMG_0232.JPG.130497130586f13261906ed62766e4ce.JPGSorry...fuzzy...I'm using a small wrench to display the single #14 wire...the other three are #18 Gage.

Here is the #8 Gage with the first set of connectors at the battery tray.IMG_0233.JPG.6d6d67000225e5feb68de502a7adb9c0.JPGNice connectors but, this IS an additional maintenance point in the ground system.

 

Here is the two #8 Gage wires "spliced" to a single "negative terminal" battery connector.IMG_0234.JPG.8a6cba5a5e04a944c7edcc610b9679e7.JPGNice factory job...and this IS connected directly to the negative post connector/battery.

 

Then...here is the #8 Gage connector engaging the final run of of #10 Gage to the PCU. IMG_0235.JPG.dd03e7c76b8f39a99cdc4a7e7089f94b.JPGThree connectors all dedicated as The PCU Master Ground and the final run of 20 inches is dropped to #10 at the mating connector. I guess is was budget :doh:

 

Here is how I am going to do it.

 

1) I am removing the #6 Gage alternator B+ line from the large harness entirely.

 

2) The four grounds on the drivers side of the engine will terminate at the negative terminal of the drivers side battery directly. 

 

3) One, and ONLY one #4 will be run from the negative terminal of the drivers side over the radiator and terminated directly at the negative terminal of the passenger side battery.

 

4) I will use the clean #8 Gage scrap and run directly from the PCU to the negative terminal on the passenger side.

 

My method has superior integrity, additional "Mho's by using #4 to directly tie both negative terminals of the batteries. Directly bring the integrity of the PCU's ground without the use of connectors and cleanup the appearance of the entire spaghetti-mess of a very poorly thought out grounding system. (who did this?)

 

5) The new alternator (XP-270 DC Power Engineering, of Riverside Ca) will have the B+ delivered directly to the passenger side positive terminal via #4 Gage silver welding cable with a total length of approximately 23 inches. The factory #0 Gage from the passenger to the drivers side has excellent "current squared/resistance loss" characteristics and will allow this DC presentation to be a true lossless  "parallel" system.

 

6) The B+ DC to the PDC will remain with the factory #6 Gage and allow the factory 140 Amp fuse to remain as a "master fuse" for the fed system.

 

This new "Large Frame 270 Amp alternator, 6 Phase" device could NOT be bolted in place for service with the factory B+ configuration.

 

Also, with the factory B+ line and the "PCU Ground" lines having been removed from the large flexible conduit at the front of the engine...this is now reduced in size considerably and will now be just "sensor feeds" in a much smaller flex-conduit configuration.

 

I do believe I will have alleviated the TQ converter "lock and unlock" syndrom and I can remove my tin-foil hat.

 

The 270 XP key points: 6 Phase, Large CNC machined housing, Square-wire wound stator with no overlap, 200 amps at true idle. IMG_0236.JPG.6d95f112b29229ec59b5bfd08e9a8d9f.JPGThe finish work is excellentIMG_0237.JPG.ea6a3985a9536f7320c198de66438411.JPGHair pins are epoxy dippedIMG_0238.JPG.b90c643b476f8f10906e99d25384cf1b.JPGclose up viewIMG_0239.JPG.636f91ec627de1b37346730f4b3e4104.JPG12 diodes 6 Phase and high performance alloyed heat sink.

 

When the installation is complete I'll provide engine bay photos.       

 

Edited by W-T
spelling
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

Something that might be interesting. 

 

2002-Dodge-Wiring-Pg3.jpg

 

You can clearly see the ECM and VP44 ground in this diagram but take notice where the grid heater solenoid ground and PDC grounds come together. Now I know @W-T knows that when a solenoid is de-energized there a surge that comes from the solenoids. This is most likely feedback on the grounds that feed the ECM and VP44 being it's the same G115 ground. Again the G115 ground feeding the PCM as well.

 

2002-Dodge-Wiring-Pg1.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@W-T after reading what is the difference between the company 270 from DC compared to the XP 250 from Nations?  Besides the obvious 20 amp output difference.

Oh you didn't like the 3 grounds on the passenger side that when I did my upgrade I streamlined it a bit.

I opted out of removing the positive from the alternator because I gathered that to also be the PCM voltage regulator signal wire am I wrong how will the DC power be regulated?

I added extra charge wire with new fuse to handle extra output

Also I forgot to mention check your engine grounds the block is painted and the bolted the ground and lug to the painted surface of my block, I cleaned to bare metal installed star washer bolt and grease on top, same for chassis ground on frame rail the bolt in there is likely to be completely coated in rust....  

Good point on alternator bracket that explains why my added ground on the bracket is getting some corrosion

Edited by WiscoRedkneck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, notlimah said:

How much fab work is needed to mount that alternator? The thing looks impressive, but then I saw the price tag! :spend:

 

Also, how the F did you get and keep

your engine bay so clean?!?

@notlimah...The 270 XP is large Frame to accept the robust Stator and companion 6 Phase rotor within the embodiment however; the CNC design engineer compiled the dimensions required and produced the platform to bolt directly into place with ZERO changes to the factory geometry for mounting.

 

It's amazing what these 3D prototype printers are able to do today in creating a mock-up of a structure and be able to "expand" the dimensions within a target zone. Once done they feed the data into a CNC data logger and "mill-out" a solid metallic body from a billet piece. My company also produces assembly chassis's for our widgets and to observer the process is amazing.

 

Clean...well I'm really anal and I do "doodle" under the hood with little rags and a squirt of oil. I approach maintenance clean-up the same way I clean weapons. I purchased this CTD new in 2001. The day I took delivery in Billings Montana at Billings Dodge I was out in the lot with the hood up. It was a blasted thunderstorm as the sales staff stood inside and watched the idiot (me) in the rain place fine mesh screen in front of the radiator/condenser-cooling structures to prevent bugs from plugging holes in the cooling units. I drove home and immediately removed that stupid puke bottle from the front of the engine and ran a "road-draft" tube straight down. There has never been an "oily shower mist" encapsulating the entire engine-bay compartment. That "blow-by" fog-syndrome poops all over everything including the cowl-seal where the hood meets the upper mantel of the firewall. This exit precisely deposits "oily film" on the front windshield and creates a never ending battle during rain events. It's also a constant visual detraction as I pilot this 7000 Lb device down the road...I really dislike a murky view through the front windshield. Most people who view this machine are astounded to find that it IS 17 years old with 154,000 miles on it. Yes...I'm a real A-hole  :cool: ... at the local car shows...they let me in for free just because this thing is full-on-goon stupid ! I put mirrors under it at the shows to expose the extreme efforts to detail.

 

BTW...Thank You. 

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Something that might be interesting. 

 

2002-Dodge-Wiring-Pg3.jpg

 

You can clearly see the ECM and VP44 ground in this diagram but take notice where the grid heater solenoid ground and PDC grounds come together. Now I know @W-T knows that when a solenoid is de-energized there a surge that comes from the solenoids. This is most likely feedback on the grounds that feed the ECM and VP44 being it's the same G115 ground. Again the G115 ground feeding the PCM as well.

 

 

Again, Mike Nelson has a keen eye and has been pouring over this schematic for years...YOU are very right and it appears there is NO "back pulse EMF" protection on the Grid Heater relays. Boy...where is @IBMobileat this time ? He has documented several times on the procedure and merit of such disciplines...it is standard protocol in all electronic design to prevent transients from collapsing field-coil inductive currents.CoilDiode.png.d9dfc008292c797a58ba2a47a81b61b7.pngThis is a generic example of what is at hand.

Any time a DC current passes through a coil of wire there is an expansion of electromagnetic energy surround the coil.

Diodenotconduct.jpg.6e00489cada50e395945c562ce36232d.jpgThis is a normal property of a coil.

Now...the problem ocures when the current is turned off. The electromagnetic field collapses back into the coil itself and creates a strong "back-pulse" of "opposite" polarity ! 

 

Remember, the exciting current is most likely 12 volts in potential however; depending on the "size" of the coil ( how many turns) or how many microhenries , this will determine how strong the potential of the collapsing electromagnet force. In simple terms...if you excite a coil at 12 volts, the collapsing force (back-EMF) will be MUCH larger in reverse polarity. The 12 volts input to the coil now becomes a 50 volt back-fart into your control device. This rouge reverse current will damage sensitive solid state devices and perhaps make your speedometer bounce wildly for just a moment as the field collapse dissipates.  

 

To prove this to your self, go find a relay...apply 9 volts from a transistor radio battery to the coil. You will hear the relay close (or operate) NOW...wet your finger and place it across the contacts where your 9 volt transistor battery is hooked up. Now disconnect the 9 volts while keeping your wet finger on the coil contacts....:wink: Yeah Baby...can you hear me now!

 

Ok...so this is another electronics 101... @Mopar1973Man has again located and identified an additional "danger" aspect in our CTD's...good eyes Mike ! With this small presentation...let's go fix this and prevent back-EMF damage.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

@W-T after reading what is the difference between the company 270 from DC compared to the XP 250 from Nations?  Besides the obvious 20 amp output difference.

Oh you didn't like the 3 grounds on the passenger side that when I did my upgrade I streamlined it a bit.

I opted out of removing the positive from the alternator because I gathered that to also be the PCM voltage regulator signal wire am I wrong how will the DC power be regulated?

The DC Power Engineering company out of Riverside California produces their own products from scratch. Many other companies produce higher current devices all within the same frame of an original platform. Custom  stator  and  rotor combinations will produce additional heat during operation and with the lack of "mass" and better internal cooling fans there could be a longevity issue.

 

Also...note "square-wire" symmetry wound stators with no overlap on the field coils are superior transformer coils. The sinusoidal electromagnet fields cut the stator wires and induce currents at a much enhanced efficiency. 

 

Also....Note the "true Idle" spec's on these units...if the supplier tells you a new serpentine belt of a slightly longer length is required...spinning a small shaft at a much higher speed reveals a design difference.

 

The DC Power Engineering design allows you to drop the alternator into place. The 270 XP does 305 Amps at redline...it's speck'ed at 270 normal run and reduced to 250 at above normal temperatures. It will produce 200 at idle with our 5.9's...gosh the Grid Heaters on a twenty degree morning...you won't see the headlights dim anymore. These beasts are bad to the bone ! You had best be sure your DC integrity is top notch...this thing will melt your truck ! :thumbup2:

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to know I redid all my cables recently and thought I was doing a good thing by putting a bigger alternator in there now I am thinking I wasted my money at least I bought the cheap one...  I'm sure after 340k miles the alternator was toasted anyways. BTW great information thanks 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

added extra charge wire with new fuse to handle extra output

Also I forgot to mention check your engine grounds the block is painted and the bolted the ground and lug to the painted surface of my block, I cleaned to bare metal installed star washer bolt and grease on top, same for chassis ground on frame rail the bolt in there is likely to be completely coated in rust....  

Good point on alternator bracket that explains why my added ground on the bracket is getting some corrosion

The extra B+ charge line is very good. As a parallel lead this will help lower the resistance of the factory #6 in the system. Now as for the 140 Amp fuse in the PDC...that fuse is for the entire system and there is no accumulation of more than a 140 amp demand. The engineer that selected this also knew they were providing an alternator that can only provide 130 Amps so,the method they chose is fine. Now if you upgrade current supply and you feed that factory input at the PDC as designed you will defeat the design of the new power supply generating device. Hence, when you have the Grid Heater trigger demand the grunt of the new power supply (big honkin alternator) will blow your 140 Amp fuse because it is in series with the drivers side battery. The drivers side battery directly feed the Grid Heater relays...these relays are controlled but, the raw DC current at the relay contacts are directly from the battery. This system only replenishes the battery after the head-charge has been ripped off by the starter action and the continued demand of the Grid Heaters are now taxing the original design. With an upgraded "monster device" generating current your batteries are no longer being swamped and the alternator has less work to do in a shorter period of time.

 

Better grounds by every method is BETTER ! :wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

I copied down the wire mods your doing So I have a reference while under the hood.  Going to make a run down to the marine supply for wire. 

 

Do you know of any butt connectors that don't have the plastic sleeve over the top and are perforated to accept solder after crimping. Suppose I could crimp a short piece of copper to hold while soldering.

Also my soldering gun is only 125 watts... acts like it will only heat hair size wire as I tried holding on there and did not do anything.

 

Man I love that alternator... like a real piece of honest equipment. From my reading I knew not to fall for a lot of them with all the claims.

 

One final question... would it help at all by running a wire from the Lift pump housing to ground?

Edited by JAG1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

I copied down the wire mods your doing So I have a reference while under the hood.  Going to make a run down to the marine supply for wire. 

 

Do you know of any butt connectors that don't have the plastic sleeve over the top and are perforated to accept solder after crimping. Suppose I could crimp a short piece of copper to hold while soldering.

Also my soldering gun is only 125 watts... acts like it will only heat hair size wire as I tried holding on there and did not do anything.

 

Man I love that alternator... like a real piece of honest equipment. From my reading I knew not to fall for a lot of them with all the claims.

 

One final question... would it help at all by running a wire from the Lift pump housing to ground?

Good Morning @JAG1hey brother don't bother with connectors...if you can work directly at the point of connection just solder them and shrink wrap each connection. A large piece of shrink to encapsulate your surgery when complete will suffice nicely. Boy...you started this and a good deed never goes unpunished ! I'm glad you found all of this and YES...it snowballed but, finding all of this will return good measure. With @Mopar1973Manlooking into the discreet components at the control level perhaps the full circle will prevent these catastrophic failures we have all seen over the years. There is back-EMF in several key locations and in time this can prove to be harmful. Now if @IBMobile would chime in and bless our findings and procedures perhaps I could view the Super Bowl in good graces.

 

Oh...your soldering gun...break the little nuts loose that hold the "hair-pin" element to the posts and re-tighten ...you have debris at the connection and it's preventing current flow.

 

Cheers...I'm going back out to the lab and continue the saga 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...