Head gasket blown - Coolant leak

[AH64ID]

13 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I have no idea, some say 135 others 150. I figured 135 was more then arp 425 at 125 so I went with 135. Gotta to be better then arp 425 and stock head bolts.

 

Lots of different info on the H11's out there, but what little I found was that it's 125 just like the ARP 425's. 

 

They appear to be a tweener on price and strength of the 425's and 625's, thou some sources put them at the same tensile strength as 425's just with a higher price. 

[Mopar1973Man]

I've managed to get it all back together. Trying to get it to start now but my batteries didn't hold up to the cranking and sitting for the week. At least get it to fire up and move would be good so I can clean the floor so I can fix the power steer pump seal for the reservoir. I'm going to do a local shakedown before committing the truck to the long haul.

[Mopar1973Man]

Right from ARP's website...

https://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php

 

Quote

Do I need to re-torque my head bolts or studs?

If you follow the ARP installation instructions, there should be no need to do a re-torque. However, it may be necessary under certain circumstances if the gasket manufacturer’s instructions require it, particularly if a fire ring has been installed. ARP recommends not doing a re-torque on a hot engine.

 

[AH64ID]

There are also 2 schools of thought on re-torques. 1st being to just torque check them, and 2nd being to break torque and then re-torque. 

 

The 1st will really only show you if they are coming loose, as they could drop by 5-10% and still not move at the torque setting. 

 

The 2nd ensures a more even clamp. 

 

Neither is often necessary on a OEM head gasket, but preferred by many engine builders to ensure a consistent even clamp on the gasket for increased cylinder pressures. 

[Mopar1973Man]

(With a Mad Scientist voice) It's alive! It runs once again! 

 

I'm quite amazed. I got it started and left it idle while I picked up a few things then kicked it out the door to warm up more as I clean up a bit more stuff. Then I took off down the road riding easy on it till it warmed up and the thermostat opened and cycled once. I knew it needed to burp once. After that, I gave it a few good stabs at the throttle and it pulls like a scalded ape. Nothing long but something to create EGT's a bit. After about 5 miles I stopped and check for leaks or any issues. None to be found. Continued down canyon for another 5 miles. Pulled off again checking for any leaks or any issues. Still nothing. Cruise on back home and sun is just going down and with my flashlight, I caught a glance at my breather pipe the blow by is greatly reduced. The vapor comes out the end of the pipe like steam off a hot cup of coffee in the morning. I'm leaving the beast outside to chill tonight so I can see the start up and what the smoke if any. 

[JAG1]

I'm glad for you , but MoparMom's going to blow her gasket if you don't get all the firewood in real soon Boss.

[dripley]

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

I'm glad for you , but MoparMom's going to blow her gasket if you don't get all the firewood in real soon Boss.

So Mikey might be in line for another HG job. Sounds bad for him. I think Rosalee might forgive him.

[Mopar1973Man]

8 hours ago, dripley said:

So Mikey might be in line for another HG job. Sounds bad for him. I think Rosalee might forgive him.

 

Ok. The only way I'll do it is if you lift the head off by yourself. 

 

10 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I'm glad for you , but MoparMom's going to blow her gasket if you don't get all the firewood in real soon Boss.

 

LOL. You are behind. The firewood is here it just has to be split and stacked. 

 

Like I said I left them out and gave them the cold shoulder last night. 37*F this morning here at my place. 

 

[Marcus2000monster]

22 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Ok. The only way I'll do it is if you lift the head off by yourself. 

 

 

LOL. You are behind. The firewood is here it just has to be split and stacked. 

 

Like I said I left them out and gave them the cold shoulder last night. 37*F this morning here at my place. 

 

Glad to hear you got the truck running Mike! And to hear you won’t freeze this winter! Lol! 

[dripley]

39 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Ok. The only way I'll do it is if you lift the head of by yourself.

Ok. I will start eating me spinach.

[Mopar1973Man]

Just now, dripley said:

Ok. I will start eating me spinach.

 

(Hint) engine hoist works awesome. 

[JAG1]

That what I meant... gettin split and stacked.

 

 

Edited September 26, 2018 by JAG1

[LiveOak]

Glad to see you got her put back together and running with no problems or issues.    I will remember the 2x4 trick.  That was an excellent thinking outside the box solution.  It is such a pain in the butt working back there near the firewall.  

[Mopar1973Man]

4 hours ago, LiveOak said:

I will remember the 2x4 trick.  That was an excellent thinking outside the box solution.

 

I kind of knew the answer from most was drill hole a hole drop it through the hole in the cowl. The other was to beat a dent in the body so the stud would pass. Neither are solutions I wanted to use. So I thought about it and answer my own question. Either the engine would have to drop or the cab would have to rise. Being the engine mount would have to be unbolted and lining it back up might be a PITA so knowing the cab is on rubber mounts you can flex a quarter inch from the cab. I will note that when you place your body weight on the front bumper to reach over you might gain a bit more. So be careful on how much you lift then put your body weight up there. 

[Dieselfuture]

45 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I kind of knew the answer from most was drill hole a hole drop it through the hole in the cowl. The other was to beat a dent in the body so the stud would pass. Neither are solutions I wanted to use.

Hey now, you wanted some advice from bunch of rednecks that's what you get. We're really truly used all of our brain cells to try and get you going. 

[trreed]

All three of them!

Edited September 26, 2018 by trreed

[Mopar1973Man]

[JDHudsn]

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I kind of knew the answer from most was drill hole a hole drop it through the hole in the cowl. The other was to beat a dent in the body so the stud would pass. Neither are solutions I wanted to use. So I thought about it and answer my own question. Either the engine would have to drop or the cab would have to rise. Being the engine mount would have to be unbolted and lining it back up might be a PITA so knowing the cab is on rubber mounts you can flex a quarter inch from the cab. I will note that when you place your body weight on the front bumper to reach over you might gain a bit more. So be careful on how much you lift then put your body weight up there. 

I was able to wiggle jiggle the stud into place without having to do much with the cowel. Just put the stud up in the hole found a secondary hole that went a little deeper then cleared the head and dropped into place. I wonder if they changed something between 1999 and 2002 . 

 

I recall you warning me before I did the job but I didn’t encounter it!

 

Regardless nicely done, I just got caught up with the whole HG post!

[Mopar1973Man]

The only problem I've got is a minor fuel leak that is at the rear. Either number 5 or 6 line. I also want to replace the sealing washers on the return banjo.

[Mopar1973Man]

@Dieselfuture

 

I'm going to bet your valve guides are worn and that why you're having an issue with needing tophat style valve seals. I've just run 250 miles round trip to Ontario, OR and my blowby is greatly reduced. The engine runs super smooth now. No startup oil smoke anymore. I've run hard down, cruise set at 65 MPH and did a few 40-45 PSI passes reaching 95 MPH with no problem. Even this morning I left the truck outside because of the power steering and fuel dripping. Let the grid heater hit and fired up with the typically blackish/white puff of smoke which turned over very light haze of white as the engine warm up it vanished.