Fuel boss install on 2000 2500 that has stock lift on block and an in-tank pump

[backcountrymountains]

First time posting. Just got a 2000 2500 2wd to tow a tiny house. Decided to get a Fuel Boss and hopefully not worry about fuel supply issues and trashing a VP44. The thing is bone stock (as far as I can tell) without gauges (I know I need to get them).

 

I checked the engine bay and there is definitely a carter lift pump behind and below the stock fuel filter. It's plugged in to the harness and the fuel like is hooked up to the filter, but I haven't bumped the starter to see if it runs. I ordered a fuel boss thinking the install would be straightforward with the stock lift pump. 

 

Then I checked the tank. It really looks like it has an in tank pump: 4 wire harness, inlet, outlet, and vent.

 

What the heck?!?!?

 

Is it possible to have an in tank and stock pump? Isn't that too much current for the ECM?

 

Is it possible to suction fuel through the in-tank pump to the fuel boss? Do I have to put in a draw straw? Saw this video: Fuel tank module upgrade from Throroughbred and they showed how to just cut out the in-tank pump and add an extension to the stock straw instead of installing an aftermarket straw. Any reason that wouldn't work?

 

I'm not looking to add HP or anything, I just want a reliable fuel delivery system.

 

Thanks, 

 

Justin

 

 

[Me78569]

pull the fuel level basket and find out before you buy anything.  

[dripley]

I had an intank pump. I removed it and modified the basket with kit that came with my AD. The pickup is in the basket and works fine. But like @Me78569 says above you ought to find out what you have first. 

[backcountrymountains]

I totally agree that I need to figure out exactly what I have. The only problem is I have a full tank of fuel and I'm not sure I can drop the tank or lift the full-size bed.

 

Does anyone have pictures of the different versions of fuel modules (pump vs no pump)?

 

How noisy is the in-tank pump? shouldn't I be able to hear it if I bump the starter?

 

I'll take some pics of the top of the in-tank module so maybe someone can identify it.

 

@Me78569 I totally agree with your signature quote.

[Me78569]

Ubolt the bed And jack it up with a 2x4 and a floor jack.  Easy as pie

[Tractorman]

1 hour ago, backcountrymountains said:

How noisy is the in-tank pump? shouldn't I be able to hear it if I bump the starter?

 

Yes, you should be able to hear an in-tank pump while it is running and you should be able to hear a engine mounted pump running, as well.  Without knowing what fuel modifications a previous owner did and if you can't hear an in-tank pump running, then, unfortunately, you will have to pull the fuel cartridge from the tank (as mentioned above).

 

I bought my truck new and the VP-44 failed at 87,000 miles.  The dealership replaced the VP-44 and removed the engine mounted lift pump and installed an in-tank lift pump complete with wiring harness and relay - all under warranty.  This was the factory fix at the time.

 

Keep us posted...

 

- John

[dripley]

Just bump the starter, no engine start, and you should be able to hear the pump or pumps running for about 20 seconds.

[backcountrymountains]

I can hear the stock Carter pump but nothing from the in-tank fuel module. This could just mean that it's dead. No idea.

 

Didn't Dodge take out the stock pump and replace it with an aluminum block when they went to the in-tank module? That's what seems weird to me, that I would have both.

 

I'm just going to have to pop the bed and pull it to make sure of what I have. I'm excited. I read that I might have to take the bumper off because it's a long bed.

 

I took some pictures of the fuel module, but it's covered in dust and I can't get at it to clean it. It doesn't have a waffle top section like I've seen on the 01-02 modules and the black stub seems to be in a different area. I can't figure out why it would have 4 wires though.

 

 

[Dieselfuture]

This is what I would do. You already have fuel boss coming and anything that was done by Dodge is junk. So take the module out, modify it to accept 1/2 inch, jic to push on hose. Draw straw 5 used to be the one to get, has a half inch in and a half inch out. Then mount your fuel boss run all your new lines, if you're keeping factory filter then get half inch adapters for it. Vulcan performance should have all of it. I have a local custom hose place where I can get all my stuff. Some people choose to keep another inline electric pump for priming reasons or just in case. If you do decide just still use ECM plug two power to lift pump make sure lift pump is ran through a relay and ECM plug only triggers the relay and not running the actual pump. Lifting the bed to gain access is not that hard. Here is my fuel basket that I modified. I used a draw straw 5 , but when I got mine only the supply side of it was included, that aluminum block you see  that replaced intake pump. I had to make my own return line. Last time I checked that kit comes with both now 

[Daleb]

I have both fuel modules one with pump in it and one with no pump. The wire plugs are identical and both have four wires at the plug.

[dripley]

Dont forget you have a fuel level sending unit on fuel basket. Not sure why the 4 wires for a basket with no pump in it though.

[cumminsdog]

Just put a beans sump on it & call it a day !

[dripley]

No holes in the bottom of the tank for me. The pick up in the basket will drain my tank.

[Mopar1973Man]

Still running the old school draw straw outside the basket, no issues to report 13 years later.

 

There have been a few people with sumps here that had to replace the entire fuel tank which is extremely expensive. Because of fuel leaks, they couldn't fix. Sumps are OK for someone track racing but don't suggest them for street or offroad use.

[backcountrymountains]

Thanks for all of the advice, called Richard from Glacier Diesel and he said as long as I can't hear the pump in the tank it's probably good to go. He said the in-tank pump doesn't allow for fuel to flow if it isn't pumping (he had a term for the type of valve on it, plug-seal or something) so if I had a dead in-tank no fuel would flow when with the stock.

 

Anyway, looks like converting to mechanical will work out.

 

Thanks again, I'll be back with more questions and maybe some pics of my installation process.

[Dieselfuture]

I would still modify the fuel basket when you get time, them things are very restrictive for flow in factory configuration

[dripley]

Definitely get rid of that pump unless you add a new fuel pick up outside of the basket. I guess it would not matter if you do it that way.

[01cummins4ever]

7 hours ago, backcountrymountains said:

 

 

Anyway, looks like converting to mechanical will work out.

 

Thanks again, I'll be back with more questions and maybe some pics of my installation process.

Chime back in, when your ready, A few of us members have done the install and willing to help, you will be happy with it