Towing upgrades.

[That Guy]

It is advised to invest in actual gauges. Head studs are not needed until around the 450-500hp mark and many people are still running stock headbolts. Timing is important when considering studs.

 

Believe it or not, the loudest part of the engine isn't the valve train, but it is solid flat tappet. The gear train on the front is a huge noise maker. These are inherently loud engines.

 

It would not be easy to put hydraulic lifters, but they do make roller tappets and rockers but $$$$$$.

Edited August 22, 2020 by That Guy

[Mopar1973Man]

15 hours ago, That Guy said:

It is advised to invest in actual gauges.

 

Like myself I typically run the Quad Headless. In other word I don't alway have the iQuad App running. Maybe want to listen to music. Maybe I don't want my phone display on all the time. Then I fall back to my normal gauges which are accurate. I can see ther important stuff like Boost, fuel pressure and EGT's on the a-pillar. Those gauges have warning light so I never really look at them hard. The red warning lamp and it level tells what is wrong.

 

Here is the post on how to program ISSPro Gauges EV2

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

Wish there was a knowledgeable person in the So. Calif. Santa Clarita area that is familiar with the qiadzillia that could set me up and see it in action in its use, and maybe I could trade some of my abilities. 

[That Guy]

23 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

 

I had a set of 20 year old ISSPro that came with the truck. At some point over the 4 years the truck was parked, the pyro gauge face broke loose internally.

 

I wanted to go back with ISSPro but I just didn't like the graduations of the gauge face. I wanted something that matched the stock gauges a bit closer. The Autometers do, though, they already don't appear to be quite as accurate as the ISSPro's. The boost gauge is slightly less sensitive at low boost, and the pyro is reads about 5% warmer at idle. 

[Mopar1973Man]

8 hours ago, Ed ke6bnl said:

Wish there was a knowledgeable person in the So. Calif. Santa Clarita area that is familiar with the qiadzillia that could set me up and see it in action in its use, and maybe I could trade some of my abilities. 

 

I am one of the few people. I'm not in Cally though but I do know where you at being it was once one of my old stomping grounds years ago. I could help you build a tune not much in it. Basically for timing you want the lowest engine load. Building tunes tends to take some time and testing so it not a instant build its several days of different conditions and work loads and see how it fairs. I can say you can crank up a lot of timing without much worry. It just getting it efficient and keeping logs so you can track it. 

[Ed ke6bnl]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I am one of the few people. I'm not in Cally though but I do know where you at being it was once one of my old stomping grounds years ago. I could help you build a tune not much in it. Basically for timing you want the lowest engine load. Building tunes tends to take some time and testing so it not a instant build its several days of different conditions and work loads and see how it fairs. I can say you can crank up a lot of timing without much worry. It just getting it efficient and keeping logs so you can track it. 

I do not have the Quadzilla but would like to see it in action and see if I should go that route. It is a lot to spend if I can not get a big benifit. Thanks

[Mopar1973Man]

19 minutes ago, Ed ke6bnl said:

I do not have the Quadzilla but would like to see it in action and see if I should go that route.

If we could get together I would demo it all you wished. 

 

20 minutes ago, Ed ke6bnl said:

It is a lot to spend if I can not get a big benifit. Thanks

Actually its pretty cheap when you compare HP/per dollar.  Quadzilla is the biggest HP tuner for our truck at 180 HP possible. Where Edge Products being next in line at 150 HP and still $1,050 for less. Quadzilla is $699. Less money more from the tuner. 

 

 

Really wanna feel the pinch...

 

Smarty Touch as a complete package is next to $1,800 for the full tuning ability but it still only 60 HP tuner. You need to add in the EGT probe which is extra, the unlocking dongle so you can program, then buy any VIN licenses so you can program. Smarty Touch is the most expensive for a tuner for our truck. But for CR engines its 200 HP roughly. Smarty Touch is just a very expensive Smarty S-03.  

[Red00]

That would be great. Just got to deal with this rear-end problem that popped up yesterday.  Scubbing and occasional clunk when turning. Think it might be a side gear problem. Wife thinks I should buy a new truck. I told her by the time I put 50,000 in this one it will be like a new truck.

[Mopar1973Man]

Thank Gawd I opted for an open diff and not that limited slip. You most likely need to take care of the clutch pack.

[NIsaacs]

18 hours ago, Red00 said:

That would be great. Just got to deal with this rear-end problem that popped up yesterday.  Scubbing and occasional clunk when turning. Think it might be a side gear problem. Wife thinks I should buy a new truck. I told her by the time I put 50,000 in this one it will be like a new truck.

 

I would change the oil. This is what I use, 85/140, it has the friction modifier mixed in.

 

 

[wil440]

9 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

 

I would change the oil. This is what I use, 85/140, it has the friction modifier mixed in.

 

 

I'd also be doing a oil change first, with friction modifier. Cat do one which I use. Stopped all the scrubbing and clunking on my truck.

Also when draining the old oil if chunks or metallic paint drop out you know you need to investigate further.

I'm happy my truck has LSD

[That Guy]

12 hours ago, wil440 said:

Also when draining the old oil if chunks or metallic paint drop out you know you need to investigate further.

I'm happy my truck has LSD

I did the fluid change on my chevy and chunks came out the size of my thumb nail. It has a auto locker. I did not see any damage anywhere. It doesn't make any noise. Closed it up, filled with fluid, and the locker even still works. Tow about 4k lbs with it on occasion.

 

I still wonder where the chunks came from. It being a fourth vehicle..... I'm not sure I want to know.

Edited August 25, 2020 by That Guy

[Red00]

I took it in for an oil change and had them do the diff. Noise started 2 days later. Is as wondering if they didn't put a friction modifier in. My tab is rusted, all I can see is limited slip. Can't see the stamped BOM. So I don't know which Dana it is.

[015point9]

Now my glove box has a sticker that says what my rear end is and the ratio. 

 

But that would be stock,  might be changed by now.

 

Most 1 tons are Dana 80 I believe

[dave110]

Might help

 

https://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/emailpage.html?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Dodge&familyStr=brand&franchise=D&actionURL=%2Fwccs%2Fbrand_forms%2Fus%2Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U

Edited August 25, 2020 by dave110

[That Guy]

Should be a sticker on the hood that has all the information on it.

[dripley]

My 02 has the sticker in the glove box. Never noticed one under the hood.

[hdpwipmonkey]

Go here and put in your VIN and it will tell you all you will want to know about your truck 

[wil440]

7 hours ago, Red00 said:

I took it in for an oil change and had them do the diff. Noise started 2 days later. Is as wondering if they didn't put a friction modifier in. My tab is rusted, all I can see is limited slip. Can't see the stamped BOM. So I don't know which Dana it is.

I'd be checking there is actually oil in there and then add friction modifier, like you say sounds like non went back in

[Red00]

Thanks guys for the responses. Been out of town and haven't had the opportunity to reply. Did check and there was oil in the rearend. Thought I might drain some out and add some friction modifier. What brand should I use?