Teardown and Rebuild

[Mopar1973Man]

1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

Too much power, heat, cold, and a bunch of other excuses I can't think of right now

Now its a oil with the expense of full synthetic you got to dump because of a leak. Just like all synthetic oil users they won't let go of that expensive oil even when they need to. So you got the choice of living with the leak and constantly adding oil to the engine (adding up cost) or dump the entire thing and fix the oil leak (another expensive oil change). Bad idea is trying to capture and reuse the oil. Too much risk in falling debris landing in your catch bucket/pan.

Edited February 8, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[AH64ID]

If the leak is tolerable fix it at the next oil change. 

 

I agree with you on the Dino oil... I never felt comfortable with it in my engine and the power turned up. 

[CTcummins24V]

I ran synthetic once it oil leakage was less than tolerable. Switched back to dino and all I get now is a couple drips. I'm done chasing oil leaks on this motor till it needs to be yanked out and rebuilt. These motors are known for having leakage at the pan gasket. There is a write up on TDR on where to use silicone/sealer. Back of the motor is a trouble spot where the pan meets the small crank cover.

Driveshaft was balanced when you had it apart? When my rear diff started to go it would vibrate like crazy. The bearing was shot going into the pumpkin and the driveshaft was hopping around. Get it up on the lift and have someone give it some throttle and see what everything is doing. 

[AH64ID]

13 minutes ago, CTcummins24V said:

I ran synthetic once it oil leakage was less than tolerable. Switched back to dino and all I get now is a couple drips. I'm done chasing oil leaks on this motor till it needs to be yanked out and rebuilt.

That tells me you have some sludge buildup in the motor. Synthetic doesn't create leaks it simply removes the crap plugging the leak. 

Edited February 8, 2016 by AH64ID

[TFaoro]

6 hours ago, CSM said:

Vibration sounds like something axle/suspension related... something is binding be it a pinion bearing, axle bearing, ?? And when you unload it it vibrates.  

Not saying it can't be trans... but that would be pretty weird. If you're sure it's trans, then start looking for shavings in the oil.  Nothing in there moves that much without cutting stuff. 

I can pull the traction bars again, but I have almost no pre-load on them.

Thinking about it more, I doubt it's transmission related because popping it out of gear at certain speeds makes it vibrate worse. That leaves the T-case, driveline, and rear diff.

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Now its a oil with the expense of full synthetic you got to dump because of a leak. Just like all synthetic oil users they won't let go of that expensive oil even when they need to. So you got the choice of living with the leak and constantly adding oil to the engine (adding up cost) or dump the entire thing and fix the oil leak (another expensive oil change). Bad idea is trying to capture and reuse the oil. Too much risk in falling debris landing in your catch bucket/pan.

POWER!!! I feel safer with it in there. I'd rather dump 3 gallons than have to rebuild it again. And there's no way I'm going to try saving the oil. I might drain half out and loosen everything up then re-tighten. We'll see.

6 hours ago, AH64ID said:

If the leak is tolerable fix it at the next oil change. 

 

I agree with you on the Dino oil... I never felt comfortable with it in my engine and the power turned up. 

Definitely tolerable. I haven't noticed a change at all on the dipstick in over a thousand miles. I'm just a perfectionist I guess.

[CTcummins24V]

4 hours ago, AH64ID said:

That tells me you have some sludge buildup in the motor. Synthetic doesn't create leaks it simply removes the crap plugging the leak. 

Well, worn out seals at the least. Unless there's something hiding, the valve train is clean and when I pulled the oil pan, everything looked good under there. I did a poor job of installing the front crank seal, which is my culprit.   

[AH64ID]

1 hour ago, CTcummins24V said:

Well, worn out seals at the least. Unless there's something hiding, the valve train is clean and when I pulled the oil pan, everything looked good under there. I did a poor job of installing the front crank seal, which is my culprit.   

Worn out seals will leak with conventional or synthetic oil. The reason that leaks appear with quality synthetic is because they clean the sludge/residue off of the seals and gaskets and allow the existing leaks to leak. 

[IBMobile]

 On that vibration,  remove the front drive shaft and see if it's still there. If no, than problem with front drive shaft/ axle.  If yes, reinstall the front drive shaft and remove the rear drive shaft and test drive.  If vibration is gone than the problem is in the rear drive shaft / axle.  If vibration is still there, problem is in transmission / transfer case.   

[TFaoro]

12 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

 On that vibration,  remove the front drive shaft and see if it's still there. If no, than problem with front drive shaft/ axle.  If yes, reinstall the front drive shaft and remove the rear drive shaft and test drive.  If vibration is gone than the problem is in the rear drive shaft / axle.  If vibration is still there, problem is in transmission / transfer case.   

I tied the front driveshaft with twine so it couldn't spin and tested it. The vibration was still present.

I can't remove the rear and drive it as all the fluid would pour out the Tcase. Thank you for the suggestion though! Maybe when I go home I'll duct tape it up really well and give it a shot.

[CSM]

1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

I tied the front driveshaft with twine so it couldn't spin and tested it. The vibration was still present.

I can't remove the rear and drive it as all the fluid would pour out the Tcase. Thank you for the suggestion though! Maybe when I go home I'll duct tape it up really well and give it a shot.

I might get something bigger than the tailshaft like a big soda bottle and trim it to slightly bigger than the tailshaft housing... or just do it down a really steep hill.

[TFaoro]

We'll see. I plan on pulling the traction bars in the morning... well that's in 4 hours  better get what sleep I can!

[TFaoro]

[dripley]

19 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Thats pretty cool. I remember watching mine creep on 300k and when it got there I had no camera.

[Hawkez]

Alright, no turning back now!!!

I was at 121777 when I filled up tonight.  How many of those miles are since the rebuild.

[Haggar]

Tfaoro,

For pulling the rear drive shaft during diagnosis, I found a lid to one of the wife's liquid laundry detergents to be the ticket.  It slips inside the seal, and covers the outside too.  It does not touch the output shaft.  I use a bit of duct tape to hold it in place.  Never lose a drop of TC oil, and have driven more that 200 miles one way, due to a broken yoke.  It makes diagnosis of rear carrier bearings/universal/differential so much easier.

Hope that helps!

Hag  

[TFaoro]

20 hours ago, Hawkez said:

Alright, no turning back now!!!

I was at 121777 when I filled up tonight.  How many of those miles are since the rebuild.

She was rebuilt at 188,466 miles.

3 hours ago, Haggar said:

Tfaoro,

For pulling the rear drive shaft during diagnosis, I found a lid to one of the wife's liquid laundry detergents to be the ticket.  It slips inside the seal, and covers the outside too.  It does not touch the output shaft.  I use a bit of duct tape to hold it in place.  Never lose a drop of TC oil, and have driven more that 200 miles one way, due to a broken yoke.  It makes diagnosis of rear carrier bearings/universal/differential so much easier.

Hope that helps!

Hag  

Thanks for the tip!

[TFaoro]

Any tips on finding an exhaust leak somewhere in the twins?? There's soot all over under the hood. I know the secondary to manifold has a small leak on the engine side but there's a bunch of soot on the intermediate cold pipe between the turbos and on the primary. I planned on washing it and driving it easy to see if I could find small amounts of soot coming from somewhere. I guess that's what happens when the drive pressure spikes well over 100.... 

[Mopar1973Man]

Man, you don't seem to be having much luck at all from chasing oil leaks to now exhaust leaks. On a cold engine this will only work for short time you can mix a heavy batch of soap and water in a spray bottle. Start the engine and spray down all the joints looking for your leaks. Once the manifold gets hot the soap won't work. But it will give you a minute or two of idle time looking for leak possibly.

[CSM]

Id get some exhaust wrap tape, the cloth kind and wrap each v clamp and seal.  Then you should be able to verify the leak.

Edited February 20, 2016 by CSM

[TFaoro]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Man, you don't seem to be having much luck at all from chasing oil leaks to now exhaust leaks. On a cold engine this will only work for short time you can mix a heavy batch of soap and water in a spray bottle. Start the engine and spray down all the joints looking for your leaks. Once the manifold gets hot the soap won't work. But it will give you a minute or two of idle time looking for leak possibly.

When I put new toys on it makes it hard for me to pull my foot out of it   Thank you for the tip though! 

15 minutes ago, CSM said:

Id get some exhaust wrap tape, the cloth kind and wrap each v clamp and seal.  Then you should be able to verify the leak.

Thanks CSM. I knew a couple of guys in here would have some good ideas!