2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I been dragging my feet, I should have posted this a month ago. But the main thing is it's finally running right once again. Here it is and Im guilty of doing this a lot, looking over things and saying its good to go, its fine. Well I took my truck to two brothers in San Antonio who Ive heard really good feed back on. Anyway they found it in pretty quick. One of the pins backed out on the apps plug. And of course when you pulled it apart it would go back into its correct spot, push it back together and it was just making enough contact to run and once it got hot it would act up doing some wild crazy stuff. Just glad it wasn't the ecm. Check the obvious. I tryed to del…

It wont connect for some reason. I shut the truck off and it bypassed turbo cool down and wont reconnect. I can connect to my OBD link scan tool but not the Quadzilla. Checked my hot wire, grounds are good, fuse is good.

So im thinking of running one on driver side due to exhaust so close to it on passenger side. Worth it or not? I almost wonder if wrapping the exhaust pipe better? Thanks

Had an analysis run on my rear diff oil when I changed it. Everything seemed just fine from what I could tell when I had it apart. But my analysis seems to tell a different story. What are the clutches in the LSD made out of? reardiff.pdf

I have been experiencing a rear axle noise when driving. The noise occurs only under acceleration (light or heavy). It is a steady whine that changes in pitch with vehicle speed. The noise has become more prominent over the last several months. I disconnected the driveshaft and I can move the pinion shaft by hand up and down and side to side a small distance. My understanding is that there should be no free play here. I also removed the differential cover and drained the oil. There was the normal amount of fine filings on the magnet, but there were no chunks or pieces of metal in the bottom of the housing - in fact, it was very clean for the miles (386,0…

I been dragging my feet, I should have posted this a month ago. But the main thing is it's finally running right once again. Here it is and Im guilty of doing this a lot, looking over things and saying its good to go, its fine. Well I took my truck to two brothers in San Antonio who Ive heard really good feed back on. Anyway they found it in pretty quick. One of the pins backed out on the apps plug. And of course when you pulled it apart it would go back into its correct spot, push it back together and it was just making enough contact to run and once it got hot it would act up doing some wild crazy stuff. Just glad it wasn't the ecm. Check the obvious.

My ScanGauge2 is showing my IAT constantly at -40F. I just installed a brand new IAT sensor, with no change. Since it's reading -40f constantly, is that an indication that it has a bad ground wire? I have the IAT sensor trouble code showing until I can get this fixed. Thanks!

I'm replacing my fuel lines and found a capped banjo fitting on the intake of the stock fuel filter housing. It looks to me as if it were brazed shut. Any ideas as to what it's there for?

I have scraped and cleaned. Can't seem to find the elusive needle grease fitting. Were some driveshafts released without them?

Does anybody have opinions on Lucas 75w-140 synthetic gear oil?

I have a 1976 F250 that i have swapped a 2001 24v cummins into. I have built several different standalone harnesses for other engines (7.3 powerstroke, 6.0 powerstroke) but this is my first VP44 24v. I have also swapped many 12v cummins into Fords. Im looking for ideas to solve a problem im having. I have a complete 2001 dodge donor truck. Im using the PCM from the dodge to control the 47re. Everything is in the truck and wired but the engine will crank only and will not allow the vp44 to fire. I can do the "hot wire" test on the vp44 and it will start and idle. Also i can unplug the dodge PCM, (cummins ecm and vp44 wiring connected) and the engine will start and run, an…

5.9 Cummins 47RE No previous issues. Went out one morning, started the truck and trans was in 3rd gear limp mode. No low gear, No OD So I jumped the gun without diagnosing and just went ahead and Replaced the typical governor pressure sensor and transducer, however issue remained the same. Started testing wires and found pin#1 on transmission connector does not have 12v with engine running like it should. Thought problem was PCM. So I sent it out to be rebuilt and they tested it and said it was good and had no issues when testing it. I Re-installed PCM and issue remained the same. I tried a jumper wire in the distribution …

Been having a noise randomly. Drained the T- case today and found this. Any idea wear it could be before I split it. It's coming apart either way, just not sure it'll be tonight.

So, 2000 RAM, 5 speed. I have bypassed the signal wire and jumped to 12v and engine starts, I have checked all fuses and relays (to best of my knowledge), I also jumpered the clutch safety switch which did nothing.... Wait to start light still works as expected, what would keep the 12v signal from making it to the starter? I know I can just put a push button in to bypass but I want to make sure this isn't a bigger picture issue. This literally popped up outa no where, stopped at a store, and when I got back in it wouldn't crank, I had to roll start it, luckily was on a slight slope. Thanks in advance. Tim

Quick question, with the 8pin connector unplugged at the transmission, will the pin 1 (red wire) still have power, or will the pcm shut off the relay because it’s not getting reading from pressure sensors, etc?

First off I hope everyone had a merry Christmas! Mine was eventful blowing the head gasket on the truck, and then finding out the head had cracks in 5 of the 6 cyls of the head. Replaced head and now it runs great. No external leaks but it sucks air and looses prime within a few hours. being this weekend was Christmas/eve I couldn’t get injector orings or connector tube orings. Could these be a source of the air leak? I changed the banjo washers on the back of the head with no results.

I have an xzillarator model DXZ01s that has had the map sensors cut off and im trying to figure out how to wire the new plugs i ordered for it. The harness has 2 wires coming out of it and im trying to find out how to wire the male and female map sensor plug. I bought an ls tps extension plug and it has the male and female plugs that i need wired to each other so ill cut that in half and have three wires coming out of each plug i know one wire is a jumper but i need to figure out which one will be the jumper and then what to do with the rest of the 4 wires

Getting ready to get a 30' bumper pull and ProPride hitch to tow with the rig in my signature. The PacBrake electronics tie into the lock up wire at the ECM to activate the exh brake when the unit is turned on and foot comes off the accelerator. If I wanted to add a TC lock up switch so that I can lock up in 2nd gear on up (Dynamic VB modded to allow that) for towing slow up steep inclines, can I do this without inhibiting the use of the exh brake? I'm assuming that I'd leave the PacBrake switch "off" and use the lock up switch as needed climbing hills. Then when going downhill, turn the TC lock switch "off" and turn on the PacBrake. Anyone have any wiring info on this? S…

I've had this truck for many years. Drove it 5 hours from Houston and use it on the farm only. Always had the no bus code. Starts, runs no issues at all. At first I looked into it. Speedometer also wouldn't read. I replaced the speed sensor and followed the wiring and connections back to the dash. Now speedometer displays 15mph when not moving.. It does move but never bothered to compare speed to actual. It does also have a parasitic drain on the batteries if left connected. Previously I had followed wiring and connections and no change to the no bus. No other lights or other issues known. If he batteries are week the it won't start and the 4wd l…

Trying to track down the test procedures for the ess (engine speed sensor) on a 99 ram 24v. I’m assuming it would be in hertz? I’m trying to see if my ecm is correctly giving this reading to the pcm.