3rd Generation Dodge

On my 2006 Cummins 6 speed truck is bone stock just straight piped it has a slight lope at idle no white smoke and when driving the truck blows a little bit of black smoke and in higher gears it seems to loose power . I’m thinking it’s the pressure relief valve or the fca but some insight would help. Truck isn’t making oil or losing mpg

I have pulled all injectors and had them tested. #1 & #6 had high return flow. I replaced the two with high return as well as installed a 3 micron fuel filter, it started fine the first few days ( I have driven less than two hundred miles ), until the nights started getting cooler (<50 degrees), and it started with the long cranks again (multiple 20 second cranking cycles). If I plug in the block heater it starts in 3-5 second crank cycle. After driving I can shut it off any time and it starts within 3-5 second of cranking, just not cold. Prior to all of this I have Never had to plug in the block heater. I also, do not get any codes :banghead:

Has anyone torn into these on the 3rd gens yet. Mine is shot. It goes to the floor and barely holds anymore. I've looked at the destructions for tear down and replacement........looks kinda involved, but I'd like some replies from folks that have actually done it. My regular brakes are fine, it's just the parking brake. Thanks.

Today I filled the Dodge and while I was there a guy walked up and asked about the 2 stroke oil I was pouring in the fuel tank. During the discussion, he whipped out a jug of STP and poured it down his fuel tank then started filling. He said he heard of the 2 stroke and why people used it, but he preferred STP instead. He mentioned it quite his truck engine, lubed the fuel system and he has been using it for a while. (he said his dodge is a 2002). I have searched all I could on this, even the info here and 2 other sites: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives and I have yet seen a test on STP in…

I have 2005 Cummins 5.9, that has a tune on it, but I don’t have a controller. Can I purchase any tuner to over ride the old tune?

There has been a lot of discussion about oil samples lately and another member had a sample with high Silicon in his sample and after a few questions found he had a good chance of contaminating the sample with dirt while taking the sample the wrong way. I took some pics of a couple different tools to do it the correct way to eliminate the chance of dirt in the sample. There are 2 different tools to get this done and I will attach pics of both here. - - - Updated - - - Here is a pic of an oil sampling gun with hose and sample bottle attached, also in the picture is an oil sample port that Cat uses on all of the component on their newer equipment, I also have one …

I have been seeing this a lot lately and don't get what the deal is with them. You guys know how gassers give off steam on very cold days in the winter that only lasts like, 5ft out the exhaust pipe.. Well I keep seeing CR's doing this, only with black smoke. Same amount of smoke as the frigid gasser but black. I followed a CR cummins yesterday and we were doing 55 on level ground (I barely have to give it any fuel at all to hold that speed) and his was blowing a little black smoke the entire time. It only seems to be the CR's with this issue and isn't brand specific as I have seen it on all 3. Only thing I can think of is dirty air filter. What else could it be?

I posted the below info in the 2-stroke thread, but this is really the place it should be kicked around. Any opinions are appreciated."I have run maybe 10 fills with 100:1 and something is not right. There is a loss of power and the turbo seems a little louder when accelerating. It didn't happen until a 1000 mile trip heavily loaded.Still not sure what is to blame though. I have an apparent issue with the grid heater or something because the voltmeter will cycle, and the tach goes to near zero if under about 1400 RPM (all the time).This weekend I plan on reading the codes, and checking alternator output at idle and higher RPMI don't want to hijack this thread...will post …

Headed for the tractor pulls, and the trailer brakes wouldn't release after engaging them. So I pulled over and started checking everything. Couldn't find anything, so I thought lets shut it down and see what happens after restart. Turn the key nothing, have lights, gages, she just wouldn't do anything. Buddy came to jump me off, still nothing. So I call the wrecker, get unhooked from the trailer, tow it to the Dodge dealer, they put the scanner on it and no codes, they do some more checking and the ECM in the transmission thinks, the truck is in third gear.Do some more checking and the scanner sees the shifter changing gears when you move it. What the heck happened?

I'm get ready to do my oil & filter change and was thinking if it would be better to used 5w40 synthetic vs 15w40 dino. Now I'm real cheap, so I'm thinking here Wally World Super Tech 5w40 full synthetic, not Amsoil, Red Line or any other uppity brands. One of my questions is it's not 15w40, it's 5w40, would that be OK?

Which level should I run, and should I run timing? What diff is it timing or not? My truck is all stock. I am about to try it and just wont input. Thanks

Hello I’ve read many posts on here and solved many problems on various trucks from articles I’ve read here so I believe y’all can hopefully help me here. I have an 03 ram 3500 5.9 with a 48re. I bought this truck with a bad transmission so I had it rebuilt. I installed it and now I’m having shifting issues. If I start the truck and the first time I put it in drive it starts in first and drives fine but after that it won’t downshift below 3rd. It will easily downshift manually into 2nd but will only manually shift into 1st if I shift it prior to stopping and then it will shift in just before the truck stops. The truck is completely stock I have a smarty touch but only use …

hey there guys i have 3000 too spend on my truck i want to get a programmer and gauges for my truck and what else could i do for that money ?

I have an 05 quad cab that the batteries leak down in. If you are driving it every 3 days no problem but if you let it set a week the battries are all but dead. Cables are good and terminals are clean.

230K and it's time for new ones. i'm looking at dynatrac, are they really worth the coin? or will rebestose be as good.? or factory AAM ones? I don't mind spending the money if they are worth it. Thoughts.

I just got this truck about a month ago, and about a week and a half ago, I dropped a valve seat in cylinder #1 and ate up the piston a little.. So now its rebuild time again, previous owner already rebuilt it 100k miles ago.How much is the average hone for these motors?My buddy that helped me pull the head yesterday is a diesel tech, said if moneys tight I can just hone out cylinder #1 and replace the piston and should be fine, is that true?, with all new gaskets etc. I seen a .040 over rebuild kit on pure diesel performance with mahle pistons, everything I believe sept the wrist pins for $1400My buddy will be helping me rebuild it, if I don't move by time I get the fund…

This weak the truck started starting hard when it is cold. Truck sits for 12 hrs between driving. It will stumble at about 500rpm for a couple revolutions then build up to normal idle rpm and runs fine. If I shut it off and restart it starts fine. Ambient temps at startup have been between 69 to into the 80s. Any ideas?

Rebuilt motor in frame, due to dropped valve New injectors, studs, head gasket, gauges Holset turbo = failure within 7 days (oil into exhaust side) Replaced with cheap eBay turbo = excessive shaft play within 14 days AFE blade runner= 3 weeks starting to show signs of excessive shaft play.... And slight oil blow through exhaust side This is getting really old.... Replaced oil feed line and adapter at the turbo when I installed the eBay turbo with new ones... Any advice or help???

Got this code this afternoon. Had the dash out last week to replace the AC evaporator. Been fine till this afternoon. Any ideas on where to look. I have checked as many connections possible but I might be missing one. Batteries are clean. Check the battery grounds, look fine. Tore the dash apart to see if something was loose couldn't find anything. Any other ideas?

Since getting the death wabble ive looked at track bars. I can get a moog for around $100 and its non adjustable or a carli for $345. Is the carli worth it and its adjustable. Also does anyone know what mm the sway bar is because i want to get bushings. Its an 04.5 2500. Does the steering stabilizer brace help. Thanks for the info