3rd Generation Dodge
This is a discussion forum of the 2003 to 2009 3rd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L and 6.7L Common Rail Cummins Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system.
1,142 topics in this forum
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My dads friend with an 04.5 is experiencing his blower not working anymore. The way he described it to me was it used to work when he would go and start the truck up, but after you start it it would stop working, and now it doesn't work at all. He said this all started after he replaced the thermostat, but I doubt that has anything to do with it. I will not that he did replace his resistor about a month or 2 ago so that is not the problem. Any help is appreciated because we are all in the dark. Thanks!
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I adjusted the bands and installed the governor solenoid and pressure sensor I ordered from Cascade and I wished I would have done it sooner. It really did the trick, the shifts are a little longer and the shift is a lot sharper shift, well worth the 135.00 bucks.
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Not sure if this is the right place for this but I'll give it a shot and this just started a few days ago. First of all it is a 2004.5 Ram 3500, 5.9L HO with a Fass lift pump. When I turn the key in the ignition to the "run" position the pump (Fass) now runs about 25 seconds, when it used to run about a second or 2. It is also very loud.I can start the truck anytime during this 25 second run-up and then the pump will continue to run and stay very loud after start-up. If I let the pump run until it shuts off I can start the truck and the pump will not be running...initially. Then it will sporadically go on and off (again quite loud) but if I hit the accelerator as soon as …
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I have a 2005 with a little over 220,000 miles. Haven't had the truck long, maybe two months but I have noticed what I believe sounds like valve train ticking. Not really noticeable at idle but going down the road I can really hear it in the cab of the truck. Sounds just like valve train ticking due to a loose rocker. Been watching some YouTube videos today and it actually has me worried that my truck is going to need a set of injectors. First thing I want to do though is go buy a feeler gauge and go through and check the valve lash on all the rocker arms. From what I've seen on YouTube seems to be really difficult to tell the difference buy sound weathere it be rocker ar…
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Well boys, I finnally decided to replace my ball joints,@ 325k. Had them replaced around 160k, and it cost me over 1200.00 . I bought a set of XRP's from a store in Dallas a few weeks ago. I started on the drivers side yesterday around 8:30 in the morning, finally got them both out around 1:00, man were they stuck. Broke 2- 1/2" Craftsman breaker bars and 2 cm ratchets and 1 Snapon. Went to Sears in Arlington to change them out, lunch. Went to Northern Tool and bought a 900 ft lb 1/2" air ratchet, since my Stanley wouldn't hack it. The new one didn't hack it either. I had bought a ball joint press from HF, and man is it junk. Broke the middle receiver spacer on th…
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So here's the issue. I have power to my 7 pin on the truck, but when I plug rv into truck, no running lights. Have brake hazards and signals. I used a test light and confirmed I have power to the 7 pin. Any ideas? Trailer wiring is good. Tested it on my 01 cummins and all lights work. Also, truck seems to be losing prime at under half a tank, lift pump or check valve? Any suggestions would be great!!
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Meet and Greet the BBi Guys at SEMA Greetings all! As you all know this is SEMA week and Friday is the last day. For all of you who have Injector questions this is your opportunity if you are at the SEMA show to come and visit the BBi team who has made the trip from Austria to come here and attend this event. Are you interested in partaking of the vast bank of Common Rail injector knowledge these gentlemen carry with them in their brilliant minds? Many of you folks have voiced that you have injector questions you would like answered. The time is here. Now is your chance to glean information which comes right from the horses mouth. Like I mentioned, Frid…
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So I use my '05 3500 SRW 4x4 w/SWB mostly for recreational purposes. I carry a LEER canopy when I am not carrying my slide in camper and I may haul things in the bed like building materials, rototillers and light machine equipment. I sometimes tow a trailer and I tow a boat sometimes with the camper on and sometimes without the camper on but I don't really use the truck as a work truck. In March of this year I decided to work on my tranny in anticipation of carrying more weight with my truck. I wanted it built specifically for towing and not racing. I planned to install a PacBrake as well and knew it would be better overall to do some mods so I could get more out of the…
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Anyone know what size the hood nuts and grill insert bolts are for a 07 dodge ram 3500
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Anyone here try it yet? I saw some videos, looks like you need to fab up some simple motor mount adapters and change the exhaust manifold to drop the turbo down. Is the turbo move because of the air conditioning? What about the gauges and an auto transmission. Obviously easier with a manual.
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I have a 2003 HO Auto. My charging system is charging at 18 volts, when I turn the ignition off it still reads 12v and will hold this reading. Unhook batteries and it drops to needle. My Edge CTS2 shows 14.6v while running , checked with multimeter and batts getting 18v. Redone end connections and I am stuck.....
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I got a weird one for the 68s savvy , I built a 2008 68 for my customer that came in burnt and would barely move in first . long story short I built it with a ton of upgrades and everything is upgraded and gone through, vacuumed tested etc . After installing it and took it for a test drive it has no tcc lockup and it wouldn’t shift to 6th unless you release the pedal all the way , it also set code p0740 code at 10 miles of driving . I relearned the transmission and drive 32 miles with no code but same issues of no tcc engagement and only 6th by releasing the throttle pedal. Believing I did everything right ,I dropped the trans and installed anothe…
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So I was talking to a friend today. He asked me if the front BJs on the CR trucks are pressed in or welded in.. Welded in? Yep! Apparently, his dad has read info on the interwebz that they're 'welded' in..I told him they're most likely just pressed in, but I'd check on the forum..
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Greetings! We’ve published a new Smarty UDC software version (1.1.13). This offers improvements connected to comparisons and Smarty UDC microSD card stability with old Windows OS. A complete list of modifications is present in our web site. SmartyResource--Home Thank you!
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My friend has been caring on about trying this oil filter, but I never heard of anyone using one. (Seems to pricy for me, but to each his own I guess.) If you have tried or know of anyone who tried one, does it seems like it was worth the money or not ? Thanks Scotts Performance Oil Filters http://www.scottsonline.com/groupitem.php?Item=2383&Groups=277
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I've been working a long time on this one and finally got my pxrb pacbrake installed and my custom tuning sorted out enough for the ecm to reliably run my exhaust brake on my 2005 5.9 Cummins auto with a 48RE. It works the same way as the 2006-2007 model years do with a 48RE transmission. Hit the switch and the truck will activate the exhaust brake at idle for warmup to 182 degrees. On decelerating the brake activates down to about 50ish in 4th and then downshifts to 3rd, relocks and pacbrake comes back on. If you need more you can manually downshift to 2nd and it will give you the exhaust brake down to about 15mph. Overall pretty great mod so far, very happy with it…
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Just a tidbit for others. I just did new wheel bearings on the front of the 2006 Dodge. I ordered the NAPA fleet series bearings. They are coated to protect the metals. Needless to say I had the passenger side ABS made contact with the rotor. Yup ate the cable through one wire. I just swapped an old sensor back. The new one is repairable. For sure not like the 2002 ABS codes are stored and require a tool that can read and erase ABS codes. After the swap it reset and all lights are back off once again.
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At my work we have a brand new mopar under hood fuse box for a 3rd gen cummins. We ordered it for a customer who ended up not needing it and we are unable to return it. It's the big L shaped box with a knob in the middle. My boss would rather not write it off and let me pirate fuses and relays from it. He's not terribly picky about the price but would rather get something for it as opposed to nothing. I told him I would ask here if anyone was interested. If anyone is interested and would like more info I can get some pics of it on tuesday.
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For those who haven't read my thread in the 2nd gen side my truck burned up in our shop fire today. So I'm truck shopping but feel pretty unsure of myself since I wasn't planning on truck shopping for a lot of years! For starters a quick search found me a 2008 2500, 6.7 with egr delete, 6 sp manual, reg cab 8 ft box, 165600 km, $23500. What things should I be looking for in this age of truck? I'm totally new to 3rd gen and common rail cummins and manual trannys.
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Going to be helping a buddy replace his fan hub bearing on his 07 with a 5.9 looks pretty self explanatory as far as replacement and removal anybody out there done one and have any advice for anything that might be tricky that im not seeing?Thanks-Jordan-
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