2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

As the title reads, yes my 5 speed NV4500 ate itself at 184k. Some quick background, I bought the truck used with 138k on the clock. Now after some conversations with @Mopar1973Man I should have dumped the oil in everything on truck right away after purchase and replaced with new but i did not (now regretting it). I dont believe the fluid was ever changed. Now, I have been searching for a rebuilder near me to get this done. I was thinking of doing it myself but decided it may be best to leave it to someone that knows these things better thatn i do. Ive never rebuilt one before. Problem is, i cant find anyone around me that does it anymore. So no…

is the CCD the same thing as CAN bus? does the obd2 access the CCD?

I recently installed a set of RV 275's. I had some fuel weeping at some of the connections at the head before replacement. I replaced two of my cross over tubes and all of the orings on the rest. I still had some weeping which has gotten steadily worse. On my trip back to work from home it was really bad and I have leaks at all of the connections. So bad it has washed the underside of the truck and coated the tail gate with fuel. I also leave a nasty stain any where I park it on a highway trip. Around town it is not bad, but still leaking. I am not sure what to do other than replace the orings again and see what happens. Anybody have any suggestions?

I have some slop in one of my front hubs. I see hubs from Detroit axle for $125 a pair vs $260(ea)+ from a parts store. Any my suggestion or experience some with a brand to go with? Moog Timken Precision

Ok, the truck pulled hard to the left twice in a 2 week period. I pulled the drivers side caliper today and it has rotor metal on the pads and the rotor is slightly screwed because of it. So apparently the caliper was sticking. I may need a new rotor but not sure yet. It's possible a place in town can just turn the rotor.I can get new ones for $65 plus new pads.So........my question is what do you do about the passenger side. I've already pulled the caliper and rotor and all looks well on this side.

Does anyone still make a tapped fuel filter cap for the 2000 - 2002 style fuel filter assemblies. I checked GENO's and he doesn't carry them any more apparently, and a Google search didn't turn up anything. Just looking for an easy way to bleed air out of the system after filter changes since this is the highest point in the system. Thx

I think I remembered about certain things you when adjusting steering play. Don't bear down hard on the adjustment screw, turn wheel back and forth making very small adjustments each time, raise the front off the ground....... That sort of thing? Thanks for any advice. BTW, My truck knows the way to these kinds of places

Once my truck gets warm the clutch gets real jumpy, when trying to back up slowly or starting in 2nd. Could this be a slave cyl problem or is my clutch bad? There is a small amount of oil sweating from between trans and bell housing but nothing at flywheel

Hi Guys I just bought a 2001 Dodge 3500 5 speed manual 74000 miles. The original owner never drove it much and when I got it I noticed it wouldnt rev above 2400 rpm. I put on a fuel guage and it has 14 psi at idle or when i bump the key and around 5 to 7 at wot under a load. I took it to autozone and had the codes checked and there was none. any advise on what to check or do. I put on a new fuel filter and nothing changed.

Hey Fellas, 02 cummins 3500 dually 6 speed Intermittent dead pedal. Sometimes while driving it sputters bit or it doesn't accelerate, does not stall out, it's just kind of runs flat and pedal does not respond as it should. Intermittent. No rhyme or reason. Some days it's fine, other days seems like it only happens for the first 15 minutes after starting when the truck is cold. It kind of feels like when my APPS failed a few years ago. Could my issue be as simple as resetting the APPS? Have not tried that yet. More info: Current mileage: 250,000 Installed new timbo APPS 2018 @ 226,000 miles I checke…

First of all, I hope this is the right category and I do all of this right, this is my first time on this website. I have recently bought a 2001 24 valve with 193000 miles on it. The dealer that I bought it from did not have any decrcription if the truck other than that it was a clean truck. I am completely uneducated in diesel trucks and honestly mechanics in general. This is my first diesel truck and my first vehicle in general. the truck is an automatic, and although I’ve hear manuals are more fun, more reliable, and all around better tranny’s, an automatic was the only one that I could find that didn’t cost an arm and a leg, wasn’t rusted out, and didn’t have tons of …

programmer problem? Hey guys, my neighbor bought my 60hp edge programmer off of me and put it on his 02. 1 time you start the truck, the programmer is working and will stay working until you start the truck again, than the next time it may or may not work. We checked all connections and there's no corrosion issues, but I don't know what else we could check. Anybody else ever have this problem? Donald

My truck sat for about three months before I got it rolling again, now that I have it up and runnin, my tranny intermittently decides to stop shifting through the gears, it will lock in second and not want to shift through. If I drop in neutral and then put it back in drive it seems to take care of it for at least a little while. the fluid and filter have about 3,700mi on it but the bands have never been adjusted (a auto trany guru I am not) its been in the low teens to the negative single digits and the truck has not been up to full operating temp since I got it running (I still have to put a high temp thermostat in it and get a winter front on it) not sure if the cold w…

If I loosen the #4 and 5 injector nuts only, do I need to bleed the whole system again or can I just bleed those two lines by bumping the starter til they leak? Or do I not even need to bleed them for just removing the nut?

I recently had the high idle enabled on my truck, as a matter of fact, I haven't driven the truck since I did that. I went out this morning to start it and it had a heck of a time firing. It would try to start, catch for just a second and then die. I cycled the grid heaters a couple of times, not sure if that helped. It finally did start and it ran like a pig. I've never seen, first hand, a truck run on 3 cyl, but I imagine this was it. It seemed like there was a miss, sounded awful. You should have seen my wife's face when I went back in the house. After about 10 seconds the idle changed in an instant and ran smooth; the RPMs ran up to around 1200ish (High idle?) …

Well I got hit again today with a bad part. Got all my gauges hooked up yesterday and was waiting on the intake elbow gasket to get here before I run the truck. It came in this morning and I got it all back together and primed the fuel system. Let it idle for a couple min and looked at my fuel pressure gauge and saw this I checked every part house in town and no one ha the pump at a reasonable cost and none would price match an online competitor price. Called the Cummins dealer in Memphis and he priced me one for 160 an said he would ship it to me for about 10 dollars. Went ahead and ordered it since a don't have the money to put on an AD or Fass right now. The new pump s…

Hey guys, its about 0 degrees here this morning, feels like -24. I went out to the truck this morning, actually started up very well. But there was a unusual humming coming from around the fuel pump under the hood and the FP on my Edge was stuck at 3psi, then 4, 5, and seemed to stick 6-7psi. Normally I have about 14-15. I cut it off because I didn't NEED to leave, and I just replaced the VP44 last spring and do not want to do it again. I am just wondering for later today and the future, is this normal? If I had left it warm up would it get normal or would I end up causing damage?

ok - don't laugh How do you tell a battery really requires changing and won't hold a charge anymore. To be honest - I don't know Along with my stalling issue - my starting seems to be harder - and it seems like a battery. I added 2 stroke (for general reasons) and drove for like 20 miles to let the alternator charge her up. Got back ..... and turned engine off with lights still on. Saw the voltage needle drop pretty quick from 14V to around 10V. The battery says 10/07 .......... no other indicators If I need a battery - how to tell if 1 or 2 ? - and any recommendations on where what to buy ? --- Update to the previous post... Foun…

Can crossover tubes cause a slightly rough idle in park and occasional hard starts and not leak diesel into the engine? I’ve tightened the banjo bolt behind the head and the T fitting next to it. I park the truck nose down in the driveway no issues starting. Park it on level ground and every few startups it takes extra cranking for it to start. Injectors are fairly new. It didn’t start right after the injector install. Probably a couple thousand miles after. Thanks for any help.

Looking for input, I'm pretty much stock, but hoping to add Quad Adrenaline this winter. I do have RV275's. I won't use wire tap, just Can tuning (or so I think) . The price difference is about $40 dollars, but Airdog states that the difference between the 2 pumps is the rpm of the motor (2000 for 100, 3000 for 150). Will I see any benefit of running the 150 over the 100 with the mild mods I plan. I was thinking the lower RPM 100 might last longer than the higher rpm 150, but I know that engine longevity thinking may not apply to electric motor longevity reality.