2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have a exhaust question. I bought a MBRP 4" system for my truck in my Sig, back in May of this year. I am just now getting around to putting in on today. I put everything on and it went to pretty fast. Before I tightened down the clamps and hangers, I wanted to check the firewall to down pipe clearance, to see if it needed to be moved or pivoted. There is a 1/8" at best. Here are three pics of the down pipe. The two from the top look like it is sitting right up against the firewall pad, but when you look at it from from a different angle like in the 3rd pic you can see there is a "LITTLE" bit of clearance, about a 1/8" at best. I put a MBRP on my last truck (6/7 years a…

I thought i saw here somewhere, where is the best place to drill for the sender for my 02 24 valve stock exhaust manifold. Can some one please help me out.

This will be some testing info I've tested personally over multiple trucks for those looking for that perfect sound. Really has zero effect on power but if you want that great cummins grumble we all know and love then think about this one>>>> so your in the market for an exhaust? There is tons of options and brands....so brand is pretty much irrelevant... only changes really are the outlet angle. MBRP comes back on a 45* outlet, Diamond eye 90* outlet and some others do 60*. Really it doesn't make that big of a difference other then the amount of sound you hear in the cab. Windows down 45* is quietest, 90* is loudest. You'll hear it crack and echo …

When you are pulling a heavy load on a straight road, what are you normally running for exhaust temps. :shrug:When pulling my 5th, I am seeing 1000-1100 anytime the truck is working uphill and about 800-900 when on a steady grade. Is this normal??

i have a 1999 cummins with 109,956 on it. The truck starts runs and performs awsome and holds its oil pressures and temp perfect, and it doesn't ever smoke no white blue or black. MY issue is that it has a straight pipe on it and its only 3 inch due to the muffler and cat rotted and removed due to lack of funds to replace them, and now the truck has what sounds like a tick that comes out of the tail pipe. And mostly only when idle. the motor bay is quite with no ticking or knocking anyone have any clue. ps this is my first cummins so i dont know what it should sound like.

After finishing up my rear end and steering rebuild this last week, I took a grinder and sawzall to my exhaust. I found it very interesting that it changed the tone quite a bit. I've done this in the past on gas vehicles that had an annoying high pitch or too sharp of an exhaust note. It seems to work. Anybody else do this? 3rd gen factory exhaust has a near 45 degree cut, and I don't recall what the OEM 2nd gen exhaust looked like. I didn't do a before and after, but I think that the truck is overall quieter, but has a better low frequency rumble than it did before.

Long story short I was checking on my dad's cattle out in the field and got some really bad wheel hop and the exhaust came apart. Not a big deal I thought but after looking it over the Po who put the 4in exhaust on didn't get one of the pipes together and put the clamp on it egged out the one side and I can't get it back together. my question is can I cut about 1 inch off and put it back together or is this pipe flared on the bell side.

What is the differance between 600.00 60 Hp Dynomite Diesel inj. and cheaper ones. Dynomite advertizes flow balanced and matched to opening pressure. In other words is it worth it?

Okay, since diesel engines do not create vacuum unlike the gasoline engine, I need to gain a full understanding of how this works.I believe my system needs a lookin' at. I got a leak going on at the vacuum pump, PS area. It looks like one of the pieces on the unit uses crankcase oil to lubricate as well?Does the powersteering fluid get used in the hydroboost?....does not compute. I need to know what seal or rebuild kits to get fix this mumbo jumbo.

Alright, I am trying to work through an idea of mine in regards to lockup. What I am trying to do is figure out how to predict the 1-2 shift and predict the 2-3 shift. So the question I have is what happens to make the VB decide, Time to shift into 2nd. and what happens in the vb to shift from 2-3. Is it a pressure difference between the tv and vb pressure? I don't really understand what happens in the rats nest of a VB. So is there something I can watch VIA a pressure switch or whatever to show that the trans is going to shift? Can someone smarter than me explain the magic of how a 47re shifts in low gears? Reason I am t…

Here you go gang. I've hit the jackpot and fond some more information on the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump. Now we can at least see what's in the pump a bit more...

Developed a new issue. Usually my truck will start with half a revolution. It has started taking 4 sometimes more to start. What’s going on? No codes truck runs good. Good fuel pressure.

Just wondering how many are using them ? I used the Fleetguard 9009 on a N-14 and got oil changes out to 40,000 miles, I have been reading about the Fleetguard 9028 that will fit the 5.9 engine ,it was designed for Komatsu or Kubota Equipt. using the 5.9 Cummins. Seems that Baldwin and Donaldson both offer them . Cummins stratapore and stacked disk media was great in my N-14 , so any thoughts ?

Hey guys, its about 0 degrees here this morning, feels like -24. I went out to the truck this morning, actually started up very well. But there was a unusual humming coming from around the fuel pump under the hood and the FP on my Edge was stuck at 3psi, then 4, 5, and seemed to stick 6-7psi. Normally I have about 14-15. I cut it off because I didn't NEED to leave, and I just replaced the VP44 last spring and do not want to do it again. I am just wondering for later today and the future, is this normal? If I had left it warm up would it get normal or would I end up causing damage?

My truck has been driving fine up until the very second the issue happened. No hard start, no smells, no nothing. Its been in the teens-low 20's here for the last two weeks but I keep my truck plugged in when I can. Im running a beans diesel sump, Airdog lift pump, stock VP44, stock injectors, stock turbo. Truck is an automatic 4x4 with 183,000 miles. Transmission replaced 3,000 miles ago. The issue: I was coming down a stretch of highway at 55mph, and had been for 20 miles, and the truck suddenly starting choking down and missing. I pulled over in a parking lot and could barely move the truck without it nearly dying. I went 50 feet, put it in park to listen …

It's been about a year since I installed my fass 150 and it's about time I install it into the factory fuel filter and I am a having trouble finding the correct fittings to make it work. I am sure I'm just overlooking something but what exactly do I need

The subject matter has been discussed for years and all diesel enthusiasts/owners know how important it is to maintain proper levels of fuel pressure via the "transfer pump" or Lift Pump for reliable operation. There are many requirements that each owner/operator may wish to achieve in replacing the OE Carter or perhaps making an aftermarket selection. Notably, most have had the rude awakening of a failed VP44 following the failure of the Lift Pump in a too late scenario. The cost of a VP44 compared to the Factory (Carter) Lift Pump is considerable and many of us have learned the hard way. The general consensus among the vast majority is to eliminate the fact…

Not really sure where to post this.. I work at a dodge dealer and can get any factory part that is still available for 50% off the list price.. P.m. me your vin number and the part you want, Ill see what i can do.. Any part u need ie turbos, radiators, heater cores, ac evaps, anything.. Cant do it for everyone, but first few guys no problem. Love this website, everyone helping each other out with our trucks. Id Like to help out a few guys get some parts cheap.. Timmy

I got a job that a 2001 Dodge was having lock up issues typically. Now the owner had the BD noise filter, the APPS wiring mod and ground mods. Still in all the truck ran with a surge and dropping of power. The old alternator I measured at 0.1 to nearly 0.2 volts AC. He replaced the alternator I measured today and its right about 0.04 to 0.05 marginal. Still the loss of power and surging. The owner has a Bank's tuner on so I opted to removing the MAP leads and return to stock and the Wire Tap. Went for a test drive and the problem is gone. Moral of this post is alternator noise can do damage to even 3rd party device like tuners.

Can a failed or failing MAP sensor cause my truck to be very sluggish down low and continuously the P0234 code? I once upon a time had an edge ez but it’s gone now. The boost elbow that came with it is still installed though. I have a fass lift pump and a FP gauge. Otherwise all stock. Truck feels like a total pig off the line and doesn’t feel like it starts making any power until 1800 rpm or so. Also has trouble holding highway speed in OD on any hills even empty.