2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Not really sure where to post this.. I work at a dodge dealer and can get any factory part that is still available for 50% off the list price.. P.m. me your vin number and the part you want, Ill see what i can do.. Any part u need ie turbos, radiators, heater cores, ac evaps, anything.. Cant do it for everyone, but first few guys no problem. Love this website, everyone helping each other out with our trucks. Id Like to help out a few guys get some parts cheap.. Timmy

I got a job that a 2001 Dodge was having lock up issues typically. Now the owner had the BD noise filter, the APPS wiring mod and ground mods. Still in all the truck ran with a surge and dropping of power. The old alternator I measured at 0.1 to nearly 0.2 volts AC. He replaced the alternator I measured today and its right about 0.04 to 0.05 marginal. Still the loss of power and surging. The owner has a Bank's tuner on so I opted to removing the MAP leads and return to stock and the Wire Tap. Went for a test drive and the problem is gone. Moral of this post is alternator noise can do damage to even 3rd party device like tuners.

Can a failed or failing MAP sensor cause my truck to be very sluggish down low and continuously the P0234 code? I once upon a time had an edge ez but it’s gone now. The boost elbow that came with it is still installed though. I have a fass lift pump and a FP gauge. Otherwise all stock. Truck feels like a total pig off the line and doesn’t feel like it starts making any power until 1800 rpm or so. Also has trouble holding highway speed in OD on any hills even empty.

Previously I discussed ongoing issues with my 47re, including no communication, no overdrive, no tcc lockup... I had already condemned the pcm and bought a junkyard pcm to replace it with. It has the same issues, could I have a bad pcm from the junkyard or is it more likely i have a wiring problem that either stopping communication or frying the pcm? What wires should i check before sending my pcm to be rebuilt?

So the other day I made myself a switch panel. Gotta love 3d printing. One of the switches is a torque converter lockup switch Welp, it was getting dark and I tapped into the wrong line. I tapped into the apps wire. Oopsies. Orange and dark blue vs orange and black when it was starting to get dark out Ended up running it on my commute to work today, about a 30 minute drive. Surprisingly, the switch worked, just not as a lockup switch Turns out if you ground the apps wire, the truck will run properly, but the torque converter will hold whatever condition it was in when you flipped the switch So if you flip it while it'…

Hey Gang... while I was out on my trip to Hot Springs campground with MoparMom the first night we stayed in Emmett, ID. The next morning got up and pick up our stuff in the RV and to go and leave. Jumped in the seat and got half a crank and dead. Popped the hood. Everything appears fine. MoparMom getting worried we are stuck in Emmett, ID. Like I told her don't even sweat it I've diagnosed this a million times. So... 1. Swap starter solenoid relay with trailer relay (Nothing) 2. Swap the Starter solenoid fuse with Engine Control fuse (Start) So I hopped back in the truck and start out and (Ding Ding Ding) and volts fell to zero, and few other gauges died.…

Last fall my truck started my truck started experiencing symptoms of VP44 failure. My truck is a H.O with 142xxx miles. What happens is after driving it for a period of time longer than say a half hour and shutting the truck off, if I would try starting it again about a half hour after it was off the CEL would come on. The truck would idle fine but when i go to hit the throttle it revs to 1400 RPM uncontrollably, it feel's like its either giving it the amount of fuel it needs for idle or WOT, no in between. It also won't rev pass 1400, I'm assuming that is due to reduced power from the CEL. So the truck would be idling fine for a while and then it would just cut out rando…

I just made a 1000 mile round trip from Alabama to home and back again. Upon arrival last night I noticed a slight squeal with the clutch depressed. Drove the last couple miles to the rv and sure enough I am hearing it while changing gears. When I parked I left the engine running and it appears the bearing is turning constantly. That might explain why it is failing prematurely, only 70k on the bearing. So today I determined that the bearing is definitely turning all the time. I removed the slave and started the engine and no noise, the bearing was not spinning. I replaced the slave about 60k and never compared it to the original. So I am thinking that maybe the rod …

Has anyone with an automatic trans had their transmission Heat exchanger (located on the passenger side of the block) fail?If so is this a prone part to fail?The reason im asking is that at 10 years, and 8 year old engine coolant(before i changed it), im wondering if it will stand the test of time, or if i should go about replacing it, and avoiding trashing my fully built transmission.

my 2001 2500 24 valve auto needs help, when cruising at 90 km and wanting to pass another vehicle, step on the accelerator, truck kicks down, speeds up to 100 km or so then falls on its face rpms go to governor but truck wont increase speed any more, have to pull back in behind, any suggestions

To borrow a phrase from Rossane Rosannadanna, "If its not one thing its another". My scan gauge is reporting 14 psi of boost at idle. The XZT is totally disconnected from MAP sensor. I recently installed heater core and had batteries disconnected for several days. Whats up with this?

correct me if im wrong but it is common and i should hear the squeak of the fan belt /pulley as my truck is shut off right ?.....can anyone tell me why i would no longer hear this ..aside from the obvious belt broke/missing .....everything else seems to b ok ( i hope:pray::pray:)

I've got a weird one that just started up. First off I've got a brand new fan belt. I've check all pulleys and bearings. No loose bearing and all pulleys spin freely and grooves are clean. The noise is coming from only the A/C pulley. Turning on the A/C has no impact in the noise level. Now in all my messing around, I managed to get the belt to ride on top of the high points of the grooves for the A/C pulley and the noise was gone. So I took the time released the belt and made sure it was back down in the grooves again. Now the squeak returns. I've tried some of my older belts I kept for spares with no change. I've power washed all the pulleys with degreaser and solvent. …

On my 2002 dodge diesel while swapping out my power steering fluid to synthetic today I noticed that 4 of the 7 blades on my fan clutch were cracked. Then while checking that out I noticed that the whole unit has some wobble to it where the belt goes around it. The clutch part has resistance when turning the fan either way so I'm thinking that may not be bad, but the rest of it has me concerned. So I'm wondering do you just replace the blades and I'm guessing a bearing on the pulley part that the belt goes around or do you buy the whole thing as a complete unit. Thanks Dwayne

So I been listening to my fan clutch staying locked in for weeks even when Its cool out and it sounds like a jet trying to take off. So I go get a new one this morning and same thing. I dont get it. My old truck didnt have this issue. My old truck you could hear it when it reached a hot temp it would lock in. I dont think the old clutch did this in the winter I would have noticed. I stayed on the throttle up to 3k rpm and it still locked in.

Do new fan clutches need time to "break in?" I got a new one Sunday night and it still hasn't unlocked by today so I took it back and got another. The new one hasn't unlocked today either so I'm not sure if I just need to give it some time or go get another.

So, I noticed that my fan clutch is engaged almost ALL the time.. well, sorta. I started the truck this morning (18*F), and the fan was roaring.. I don't know why, or if it's normal, but it was almost as if it were in full lockup. This isn't the first time, and it doesn't seem to be temperature-dependent. Is this normal?

Which way is the nut threaded, righty tighty lefty loosey or the reverse? About to take mine off and dont want to drive myself crazy, I know its on there good. I have plenty access.

Alright, been a looooong time since I have had to diagnose a fan clutch. Can't remember how to tell if its operating properly...

I can really hear my fan when it's really hot, but I'm wondering if my fan clutch is running too much all the time. I am over cooling and temps swing between 190 and 175. Cycles more less. How do you diagnose if the clutch is working properly?