2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have a 2002 CTD automatic that can't seem to decide what gear that it wants to be in or if it wants the convertor locked or unlocked between 35-40 MPH... Maybe the apps is bad? I remember when the auto manufacturers made stuff that was pretty good. They made cars that didn't blow head gaskets, didn't wear out wheel bearings, etc. GM had Turbo 400 transmissions, Turbo 350's weren't too bad either. Ford had c4 and c6 transmissions that performed quite well and the famous 9" rear end that is still the standard of many racing series to this day. Chrysler had the 727 and 904 transmissions and also the Hemi 4 speeds that were very good. Also the 8 3/4 rear ends as well as t…

Truck Specs: 2002 Dodge Ram 2500hd, Std Output 5 speed. Mods: BD-Diesel Flow-max Lift pump, BD-Diesel Exhaust Brake, AEM Brute Force HD air intake, Bully Dog Outlook with Performance Enhancement, Stock Straight Pipe. Recently my truck started intermittent miss at idle, and stumble during normal acceleration, under load / no load / from start.Truck has plenty of power, and good fuel mileage, Both conditions are random with no codes given, other than above exhibits no other issues.I've had issues with the bully dog outlook performance device in the past, causing stumble but goes away when I place it in stock mode. From what I've read on line in several places, it's been su…

Ok so I put a new vp44 injection pump on the truck thinking that was the problem. But it wasn't I turned the truck over and over and wouldnt crank. I unplugged the rear plug on the pump and straight wired the pump and cranked right up. Then I checked the plug pin # 6 and 7 gets 12 volts on the on position and 10 on the starting position. Pin # 5 doesn't have any voltage so it's not that. Anyone know what or why the electronics won't work and allow the truck to crank? Thanks.

I have searched until I am blue in the face to no avail. I have a 2001 24 valve with a Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner installed. At engine operating temperature the coolant temperature sensor (located right next to the thermostat housing) is reading about 1,125 ohms of resistance which is about 190F. This level of resistance matches the coolant temperature. The problem is the ECT on the Quadzilla reads 160. Disconnecting the two wire lead at the sensor seems only to affect the gauge on the dashboard and not what the Quadzilla is showing. Where is the ECM or PCM pulling the ECT of 160 from? It does not appear to me it is from the sensor located at the therm…

Driving home tonight then same old demon came back again. At 50-60 mph t/c started locking and unlocking. This thing is giving me a run for my money. My alternator is within spec, all grounds have been checked, cleaned, and had dielectric grease applied. Just to waste time and money I relocated the alternator ground cable away from the alternator across the radiator. Also I blew the 25.00 on the BD Apps noise isolator. I don't know what else to do now. Is there anything else that can cause this problem?, Anything!

Beginner question... In process of gathering new battery terminals, both batteries are out right now. Once cables are fixxed... Is there a certain sequence I'm supposed re-connect them or pull any fuses first or anything else I should do before connecting? Thanks

Can anybody give me a suggestion for a fuel additive better than stanadyne ?

Is anyone using a front axle disconnect that gets rid of the vacuum actuator like the kit from 4x4 posi-lock? Just looking for some feedback before I buy. Thanks

Well life officially sucks again ....the transmission started acting funky last night on the incredible hulk ...ie not wanting to go into second gear ..my normal takeoff gear ..raking bad in third and the only way to go into reverse was shut the truck off put it in third then restart ...so no hulk for me for at least a week the local shop guy says 1500 for a rebuilt five speed ..but he might b able to crack mine open an fix it for about 900 ....any thoughts or ideas ...on price and what might b wrong :banghead::banghead:

Hi everybody. I am new here, and I have an interesting problem. Thanks in advance. 2000 5.9, 5sp, 4x4. 210,000mi. New injector pump from Midwest EFI, new Air Dog 100 lift pump. Otherwise stock. After sitting for a few days, it will take 5-10 sec crank time to start, but once it starts it runs normally. Tech is steady and normal. Not much smoke except at RPM near redline. When the truck is warm, if you let it idle, it will miss slightly. Power sucks over 2000 rpm, but isn't bad overall. Throws PO234 overboost code, but I feel that is due to the fact that I left my Edge boost elbow on the turbo. Edge juice CTS won't connect to the…

Hi, Currently I'm dealing with a misfire when hot. Mostly noticeable at idle, lower rpm and slower speeds. It will also make a crackling sound when driving at low rpm. It often hunts for the right idle rpm if I let off the throttle. If I snap the throttle, there's a delay of like 1 second and then it will blow some white smoke like the timing is off. When I go to take off, if I push the throttle too fast at low rpm, there's like a short flat spot in the apps where the truck runs weird and crackles almost like it's choking out. I have tested and replaced almost all of the fuel related components including injectors 4 times, the pump, and all the sensors …

So I got home from a trip to California for a week and came back to find out my truck seems sluggish for some reason! I’m not sure why it feels that way maybe I’m just dreaming? Fuel pressure is good. Boost I’m making like 3 psi at 35mph in 5th gear. Is that too high for just cruising?

I have a list of codes that I need to understand. Engine is not running right and trans is crazy. Any help would be appreciated.code listECMp0380 - intake air heater relay#1p1698 - no Transmission bus messagesp0341 - cmp signal errorPCMp1492 - Batt. temp. sensor voltage too high= not plugged in but is it needed?p0463 - fuel sender unit volts too highp1694 - no engine bus messages receivedp1687 - no mic bus messages receivedp1693 - mil fault in companion modulep1594 - charging system voltage too highp1899 - park/neutral switch failurep1682 - charging system voltage too lowwhat do I need to do to make the pcm and ecm talk to each other?Its not in a dodge truck by the way. I…

My truck all the sudden takes a good 3-5 seconds to crank over, as well as the fass fuel system pumps for a good 20 seconds once the key is turned, is that a good sign if the vp44 going out?

I’ve joined the group of dead ecm’s. I had the delayed WTS light for a few years. Other than that no other problems until last week. I went to start the truck and no WTS light, no lift pump, and no start. I sent it off to Auto Computer Specialist in Florida after seeing they were recommended on here. They received it yesterday about this time. I haven’t heard anything from them yet, I figured it might be a couple days before I hear anything. Can someone who has used them give me an idea of the turnaround time? I will post back on here how my experience goes with them.

my head gasket went again. found a big puddle of oil under the truck and its coming out right in front between the head and the block. i did the head gasket 9 months ago and put ARP studs in and was really hoping it wouldnt go. didnt think it would with only 45psi boost. any ideas on why?

Morning All, I finial bit the bullet and picked up a gauge kit (trans, boost and pyro) and other goodies from http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ most of its straight forward, but i have a question about drilling the manifold for the pyro, who has drilled and tapped the hole with out removing the turbo? also, is there a standard paint number for matching the gray trim? thanks (truck is a 99 2500 auto)

Last night i did a transmission fluid change, filters and bands. All went well with the service portion. Real wtf moment was when referring to the chiltons manual and it told me that it only takes 3 PINTS. uhm, no. The was more than just 3 pints in the pan when i dropped it. When i bought the fluid from the auto store, guy told me his computer told him 4 quarts. So i obliged and bought 4 quarts. I poured in 3 and got a reading. Ran the gear selector through all gears then put in neutral. Said it was still good. Then i took it for a test drive. Initially, it wouldn't move then a moment later i had pressure. I put in atf4+ this time. D…

Need to change the tranny fluid. Looked already but couldn't find detailed instructions. I am sure many of you have done this many times. Sounds like many of you fill from the top? Drain from a PTO bolt? How many quarts? What type of fluid? Any info would be great. Thanks guys.

just happened all of a sudden started out taking 2-3 more cranks then usual and now today hot or cold will hardly start.. Ive had air dog raptor on it since 174k miles now its got 220k. Wouldnt think the injection pump would go bad if the pressure has been good for 46k miles any advice would be helpful trying to advoid spending ton on vp