2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have a raptor 150 it just stopped working. My question is can you use the the raptor fuel line on the stock fuel pump? All my stock lines are there and capped but I lost my blue thing that connects the stock fuel line to the tank and I don't really want to drop my fuel tank in the parking lot it snowing and cold. I have changed the relay and this morning I'm going to check for power and all connections thanks in advance Jon

So I took off with a little extra spirit today and second gear decided to check out. Does anybody have and parts or have a good source to get whatever parts I may need when I open this can of worms? Also one more thing would help greatly is how much does this trans and transfer case weigh separately?

Where can I find the BHAF heat shield template link, so I can print it on my printer?

So the edge fuel pressure sensor is mounted right at the vp inlet. I see no snubber. This is the way it was when i bought the truck. Can i just add a snubber or needle valve in front of the sensor ? Ideally the sensor should be mounted further back in the feed line correct ? On a side note. I plan to run the big line kit to the Vp when i move the DDRP pump to the frame rail with 1/2 inch lines once winters over. Should I just wait and put a T and needle valve in the 1/2 inch feed line ?

Hey Gang... I got ahold of the local fuel station owner and going to see what information I can get about diesel fuel and the quality and testing the fuel must meet... He said he would look up the shipping invoice and see if he could find any information about pourt point, HFRR, and othe good information. Lets see where this goes...

I recently installed an edge insight with the expandable egt harness. I was looking at adding lift pump pressure, but by the time I buy the sensor adapter with the proprietary connector and their pressure sender I'm looking at almost $300. Has anyone found an off the shelf sender that will work with the insight? $100+ seems awful steep to me.

Ok I was going to have a friend help in stall this but he is as reliable as rain atleast around here,and we are in a drought. LOL Oh and he works for the sheriff dept. LOL LOL Can anybody help with this.I have read instructions but :confused: and it seems you need two people?

I have a really different one here. Truck has been running fine recently then while driving to work yesterday the problems just began.Had to stop and pick up some things and when I turned the ignition switch off, the engine kept on running. This had happened one time before but about 2 years ago. We re-cycled the ign switch and the engine then stopped.Ok so I had no choice but to put it into 4th gear and let the clutch out. Engine then stopped and I then played with the key and ignition switch and no luck, even in the "off" position the truck had several red lights still on in the instrument panel. Went in, took care of my errands and returned in 10 minutes and the truck …

Does anyone have a short throw shifter on there NV5600? If so was it worth the money?

So after reading most of the forums i could find im still haveing the wide open throttle issue. I put a new APPS on it calibrated it started the truck up worked great. But if i turn the truck off and start it back up its wide open throttle again when i touch the gas then back to idle when i let off. But i can unhook the battery cable for 20 minutes or so hook it back up start the truck and it works fine. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

When you guys talk about checking codes how are you doing this? I tried doing a search but didn't get desirable results. :confused2:

Just another failed 3-4 accumulator spring. Had a really hard 3-4 shift and here's why:

Didn’t know where to put this topic but since it’s on a 2nd gen I’ll put it here. I’m wanting to paint the compressor housing on my he351cw this weekend but it’s a pain to remove the snap ring that holds it on. It doesn’t have one of those convenient tabs that make it easy to remove its just got 1 hole in each side like a normal snap ring. Does anyone have a cheap tool that I can pick up at the hardware store? I can’t find any snap ring pliers big enough. I got it out last time with 2 punches and some channel locks but I’d rather not go through that again ?

So my pinion deal decided to throw gear oil all over my truck last weekend so I’m replacing it. 2 questions, first any tips on getting this seal to come out? I’ve been working at it with a hammer and screwdrivers and it doesn’t want to go. Also, not sure of the name but the input Shaft of the differential has a LOT of play. It’s moving around a ton when I’m going at the seal with the screwdriver. Really hoping this is normal, needing a rear end would not make me happy. I took a video of the play but I’m not sure how I could get it to post here. It’s moving quite a bit, though. Any advice is helpful, thanks!

ok changed the injectors to rv275s from dap and mileage got a little worse:banghead: was running 5x5 than tried 3x5 now trying 2x5 the comp is tapped maybe time to untap but ill wait and see how this tank reacts went from about 15 to about 13:banghead:

Anyone have any experience with switching to synthetic after a break-in? I'm wondering just how many miles I should wait before I switch.

Awhile back I noticed some atf on the bottom of my truck just above the front u joint of the rear driveshaft. Anyways last weekend I replaced the output shaft seal by removing the rear driveline, tried to pry the seal out to no avail so I removed the extention and smacked it out from the front end, no biggie. Installed new seal, then the driveline, filled up the transfer case and called it good. I cleaned up the previuosly leaked fluid from the underbody. Now there is fresh fluid there so I am sure it is still leaking. The sliding yoke did not feel like it had any abrasions where it rides on the seal ?? My t case says its a model 242 but the dude at the parts house said t…

I have a suspicion I may have VP problems. But no codes with a good scanner. I know these pumps can be tricky. Truck starts immediately and quits after a second. Try and start 2nd time - does the same thing. 3rd try, finally starts and stay started but runs rough for a 7 seconds then clears up, runs fine. Drivability is normal . Point nose down hill - no improvement. I installed a Fuel Boss about 500mi ago and it has been great. Cleaned pressure valve in pressure line (included w/Fuel Boss plumbing). New crossover tube O-rings and injectors 1500mi ago. New return T O-rings, new banjo washers. …

I'm wanting to redo the fuel system on my '83 F250 with Cummins. Right now it is only using one of it's two 19 gallon tanks, the front tank. I'd like to replace the rear tank with a drop in replacement 38 gallon; and, would it be worth while to add a sump to the new 38 gallon tank? Picture of a 38 gallon installed I was thinking of adding a typical billiet $$$$ diesel sump to the lowest point in the tank pictured or using a formed steel sump more common in drag racing applications. http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/40793/10002/-1?parentProductId=747210 My second question is which lift pump should I be looking at? I never plan on making big power, r…

Hello, all. Was out enjoying the day with the kids after work. Drove to the park. Went to go home truck started fine, drove away half way home truck died. Lost power, dead pedal and pulled off the road. I had 15-16 pound of fuel pressure, called my dad he brought out my snap on modus and recieved the gift of the P-1688 code. I tried to restart the truck after a min or two after pulled over. it wanted to start but didn't. I could here the airdog pump running when the key was cycled. Truck had been running fine. When i was home I varied fuel at the inlet of the VP. tried cracking injectors 1,3,5. but nothing. I trust the knowledge of Mike and the others on here the most. No…