2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Have 99 that when you start it runs real rough for about 5-10 seconds then tach quits cel comes on and it smooths out but not drivable no power. This all started with no start condition Ecm was not turning on fuel pump.Replaced Ecm truck started but gave code for bad cam sensor so I replaced it and it still gives that code and same problem. All sensors have 5 volts all grounds are good put in new crank sensor. I have now replaced the ecm again and the cam sensor with still the same problem. The crank sensor showed no damage this is driving me nuts

Im trying to figure out some stuff about this wire. Im pretty sure this is the wire that makes the pump work the way it does (utilizing the sensors, etc.). My question is is this wire taking a signal from the ecm to the pump or vice versa? What sort of integrity test can I do using a DMM for this wire?

This might be a silly question for all you dually owners, but I was helping my Son with his brakes today, and I`m curious .. Do the front wheels rotate out with one of the rear duals? They appear to be all identical rims, but the fronts have a chrome cover on the outer.. I`m just wondering if dually owners bother with tire rotation. P.S. Sorry I think I put this in the wrong sub forum

Hey guys, so since I've had my truck for a bit the engine temps are acting a bit weird. I know it's normal to climb up to around 200F before the thermostat opens, but mine seems to be doing it sporadically after the thermostat opens. For instance, driving home there was a bit of a grade for about a mile, and the temps climbed up to 208. The fan kicked on and it cooled back down. Then today, I was driving for 30 min or so and it was at 193, where it usually sits. Then out of the blue it climbed to 202 and sat there until the fan kicked on and it cooled back down. Ambient temps were both around 65*. I'm thinking thermostat, but it didn't do this before the new water pump.

Hey all, Got another question for the group. I have two brake issues that have been there since I bought my truck, but only just now getting around to. Both are hydroboost related. First, it leaks on the inside of the firewall. No question there, it needs rebuilt or replaced, however I don't think rebuilding is an option because of the second issue. Namely, the pedal is very slow to return. Takes about 3 good seconds for it to return and my brake controller light to go out, and even longer when the truck is cold. I had a friend help me flush the power steering fluid, but that didn't help much if at all. So I'm looking into a new hydrobooster. My question is, does an…

Replaced the power steering pump an all the pressure lines, Now my vacuum pump is dripping steadily. looks like I have to pull it all over again. Any helpfull tips

Anyone happen to know what size plug and thread the fill plug on the NV4500 is?

Started truck getting ready to go to work. Backed out of garage Turned onto highway went about 100 yards lost all power started missing. Got turned around and started back to house noticed DTC and no fuel pressure. The code was p0216. No time to check anything, jump into the wife car get to work. All day thinking 1500.00 for new vp 44. Remembered no fuel pressure, checked when I got home' put key in turn to on lift pump runs. Bump engine lift pump runs for 20 seconds. Thinking one time thing. Pull onto road lose all power. So start checking wires. Found one rubbing, no break in insulation but taped it and put cover over it. Also changed the relay for the fuel heater/diese…

So as I'm chasing down this fuel leak, I was poking around under the hood just to make sure I didn't miss any obvious leaks or that nothing new happened. Well I got to looking more closely at the injector line bolts and it looks like some are threaded on more then others. Here's some pics theres not leaks or wetness anywhere and last I checked, they're pretty tight. Is this normal or should I pull them off and check for something? I don't really want to ignore this, but at the same time, I don't want create a new problem.

Hello, I would like to know what I have to do for changing my engine oil pan? step by step! Also do I need to remove the trans.? Thanks

Since the weather has been warming back up, I have forgotten that I still have a problem with the truck cranking because of air in the fuel system. I think I'm convinced that the fuel lines supplied to me from AD are now dry cracking and allowing air into the system. I recently discovered fuel leaking from the top of the tank. Something I think is attributed to cracked fuel lines under pressure... It does not leave puddles, but it does drip occasionally. Any thoughts? I'm thinking I might want to redo the line with something else, but dunno what. I also have the JIC(IIRC) fittings, which would need to go or I have to retrofit everything... This mak…

Unlike @Mopar1973Man's issue of not having the transmission oil made any more, I'm having the issue of which oil to run in the G56. Dodge put regular atf in the transmission, and from what I can tell that was only to save money. Mercedes (the manufacture of the transmission) does NOT recommend atf, but rather the same stuff @Mopar1973Man is going to put in his nv4500. Mobil SAE50 Synthetic transmission oil is what is spec'd. There's also a hotshotter out there who has a fleet with g56 transmissions and has a coctail of multiple oils. I'm looking forward to hearing stories / opinions on what I should use. Thanks!

What happens when the 5th nut fails on an nv4500? Loose 5th gear or everything?

http://www.quad4x4.com/syntorqlt.html So since I know I got to put some sort of lubricant back into the transmission and NV4500 fluid by Castrol is no longer produced. So I called the shop that is rebuilding my transmission. He suggested 50 weight synthetic transmission fluid in a GL-4 rating. So I started digging around. I can buy a 5 gallon bucket locally for 50WT Synthetic GL-4 Transmission Fluid. Then did some digging on the Internet because I want to find out if any others where using the 50 WT transmission fluid. Guess what... Another rebuilder suggesting the 50 WT transmission fluid. http://nv4500transmission.com/nv4500-tran…

After finishing up my rear end and steering rebuild this last week, I took a grinder and sawzall to my exhaust. I found it very interesting that it changed the tone quite a bit. I've done this in the past on gas vehicles that had an annoying high pitch or too sharp of an exhaust note. It seems to work. Anybody else do this? 3rd gen factory exhaust has a near 45 degree cut, and I don't recall what the OEM 2nd gen exhaust looked like. I didn't do a before and after, but I think that the truck is overall quieter, but has a better low frequency rumble than it did before.

Hey guys, I've looked around for a little bit on this and haven't found too much so I was curious what exactly the advantage is of switching to a draw straw. I've looked at the Vulcan products and they seem fairly priced and easy to do, just wondering if it is worth it, or what the main purpose is to make this move. Thanks! Austin

So, when back in my home town on some R&R/family time, I decided to do a simple quick, 5 sec burnout just for kicks and grins... right in front of my folks place just like old times. The turbo began to spool all normal, and BANG, followed by some minor crunchy sounds. No pictures as of yet, but upon removing what used to be the cap on the axle, out fell several one inch triangles of axle, metal chips, and the bearing adjusting nut that formerly held the bearings. Near as I can tell, the axle broke and wedged itself in there and pushed the hub off about a half inch or so, breaking the nut as it came off. The hub won't even come off as the b…

The turbo keeps blowing the boot clamp off the bottom of the tube going up to the intake horn. I've tried two different clamps and it still blows it off. How do I fix this?

My Son owns a 2000 3500 DRW with a 47RE. He has been experiencing occasional symptoms of a governor pressure solenoid failure. He has not been driving the truck much lately, and has been waiting for the opportunity to get under there and replace the governor and related parts. He drove the truck yesterday, and now a new issue has come up. The Torque converter appears to be locked and will stall the truck when he tries to come to a stop. He managed to get the truck home by putting the truck in neutral and dropping it in or out of gear when he had to stop. I have never heard of a lockup issue quite like this one... Any comments or suggestions would be much…

My truck has had a random skipping idle with rpms jumping up and down slightly on tach. It skips at any rpm range and very noticeable. I recently upgraded the injection pump because of the computer issues. This didn't help it out at all. I have checked fuel pressure and checked for air in supply to pump. It seemed to have started when i upgraded my injectors to 40hp injectors. I have replaced all seals on injectors and tubes. I did scratch a couple tubes. I did bleed air from every line at head. I don't know if the tubes being scratched would cause this bad of an idle? I can firmly say that from the lift pump to the injection pump is good. Im thinking it is down to connec…