2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Anybody know if the manufacture of our blocks makes any difference concerning the killer dowel pin? I've don't have number 53. Only have very small numbers. Supposedly Mexican block. But wondering if both blocks have KDP problem or just one or the other. I'm coming up on 100,000 miles, maybe not worth the hassle of checking KDP anyways. When do most dowel pins fall out? Thanks

Is there an easy way to determine whether my 24v is included in the early model 24v engines where the dowel pin is an issue as referenced in the TDR article below: http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR57_KillerDowelPin.pdf

I may or may not have asked about this before. I searched but didn't find anything so here we go. My truck is a 2001 3500. Is this KDP I've read about an issue or was it resolved before my truck was built? I have a mechanic at work (trucking comoany) that says I need to tear into the front of the engine and put a tab washer on the bolt closest to this pin to stop it from backing out. I have read about it quite a bit and got no definitive answer as to whether or not they fixed the issue by '01 model year. Any input? Thanks all! Also, sorry if this has been discussed before, maybe I don't know how to use the search correctly.

Check this out gang! http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80602

Going to try to put all the information into the first post so it will all be in here: Truck - 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 extended cab, 5.9L Cummins, 113,000 miles (Barn Find) I have had this truck since 78,000 miles, driving it two years now. About 3 months before I bought the truck lift pump was not working and the guy (that found it in a barn) kept driving it around with a hard start condition for about a month before putting on an Airdog on the frame. He owned the truck for 3 months. I buy the truck, runs great for a year and starts having a dead pedal issue. It was throwing codes for TPPS and the P0216 code. Replaced TPPS w…

So do you have to align the rear main housing?? I have a seal and speedy sleeve for the rear main, so I will install after housing is on. I also have the seal/sleeve install tool. The housing will have new gasket and I'll also add some loctite 515 on that and torque to ___??? I will also be doing pil pan gasket. I assume it's better to install housing first with out Goop on the bottom, then remove oil pan and do gasket etc there... Please advise!! Sorry need to get this done pretty quick and want getting any quick responses on my build thread.

Hey all, back again with another problem 🙃 so I have a weird knocking that sounds like it’s coming from the bell housing directly under where the clutch is.. it’s an 01 6 speed with (supposedly) a South Bend Dual Disk. Noise stays even with clutch pedal pressed in, I just don’t hear the discs rattling any more. The noise is proportional with engine rpm. I’m praying to god it’s the flywheel bolts or maybe it’s the original 300k flywheel and the P/O just slapped a new clutch in, which is definitely possible due to other things done on the truck... maybe dual mass flywheel? Clutch spring hitting? Clutch component broken and is stuck in there? I’m almost certain it isn’t inje…

Well gents I have put over 30,000 miles on this truck since I purchased it and I have had an interesting knocking noise. It is beginning to bug me so I plan on finding whats causing it. I have been told cracked flexplate, loose converter bolts (checked a few days ago all tight), loose flexplate bolts on the crank and even cracked pistons. The engine has over a quarter million miles and there is some mild blow-by (within spec) and oil analysis shows low wear metals. The transmission is built and the converter is custom (triple disk billet). Injectors are currently 4% balanced and of course the wrong VP44 . Any ideas please let me know. I would prefer to not p…

Hey all, I have found that the deeper I delve into this site and others I learn just enough to get me into trouble, and then dig even deeper to find a fix. My question is, what problems might you suspect if you: A) let batteries die, or B) took APPS off to test, and then did not do a reset of the APPS? I ask because I have done both without resetting, and had started getting issues related to one of our favorites: Tourque converter lockup. I have done the reset now and SEEM to have solved the issue... At least for now, we will see if it comes back. As far as the alternator, I do not currently have a voltmeter in the proper range to test for AC noise.…

First atf change on my rebuild transmission and I figured I'd throw in a transgo shift kit in it while I was in it. I really wish I took readings of pressures before I tore into it. Now I'm looking at 90 psi at 1200 rpm dead stop and 120 psi with the tv valve all the way foward at 1200 rpm. I've done a bunch of reading on this site and read some great guides. But I cant find someone with the same problem I'm having. According to transgo I should be seeing closer to 120 -155. Only other mods to the transmission was a single disc billet torque converter and a upgraded 2nd gear strut and anchor. Am I ok to run at these pressures? Is my pump going out? Or do I need to upgrade…

Get on hard pull or pulling something out that's stuck it spits and slooperers. Consistent miss. 2000 dodge 3500 4x4. Thanks in advance.

my 2001 with auto tranny 47re seems gutless,my diff's are 3.55 with 35" tires.How would you know if the torq convertor is slipping or tranny?Top end of the truck is 85 mph and slow on take off.Is this normal for the specs of my truck?

Have an 01 5 speed , super chips, fass 150 running 15ish psi, 7x10s. Lately it's been running like crap. Smoking like a freight train through all the gears. If I ease into it into 3rd and 4th shifting about 2200rpm it just lays a cloud, same between 55 and 75 in 5th. Never done this before. No boost gauge or egt gauge so I can't tell if there is any change there. I've changed all my filters in the last 800 miles. Turbo has no play and my boots all seem good. My fuel mileage dropped from about 18 to 19, down to around 14 or 15, hand calculated. Any ideas? I've got smaller injectors on the way just because. But I'm not 100% convinced that's the issue.

Got some questions about what my truck is doing over the past six month it has been to five different states and I have put on about twenty five thousand miles right around 270,000 ish only about half the time I was pulling a loaded 16ft enclosed trailer weight aprox 6000 so nothing to strenuous but over the past six month I have been noticing more of a buring oil smell in the cab its been using more oil and the biggest two concerns are when its at operating temperature 210ish my blowby tube is steaming and it drips a black cool very thin liquid about one drip every 10 to 15 seconds I have asked around and we came up with fuel and engine oil but why its cool to the touch …

MY 5.9 has had a issue starting sometimes, will crank but no start! If i tap the injector pump with a hammer while cranking she starts. I installed a fass 150 over 5 years ago she still shows good fuel PSI while running. Also installed new injector pump at 85000 miles 4 years ago.

I just want to give you folks a heads up for LarryB's. I ordered Military Type Battery Connectors from LarryB's and had them in my mail box in five days as promised. When I installed the connectors I found that the two Pos connectors fit perfect, one Neg. fit and one did not. I checked both Neg, connectors and they had different markings on them.I called LarryB's and told Larry the problem. He told me that he had just changer suppliers and and he was on the road but would send another connector as soon as he got back to the office. He did what he promised, with me this is a big deal. His word is good and I will do business with him again because he treated me right. I re…

Well I have done everything I think possiable, it has come down to bitting the bullet and buy a vp from Blue Chip Diesel. The people I have been dealing with rebuild junk. I have learned a lot about the famous vp junk in a bucket. More is being revealed day by day as our trucks get age on them. He is going to give me a fair deal I think, he says if the pump does not fix my problem just box it back up and send it back for full refund.Here is some hind site for ya, if you lose two pumps and they are not in warranty your expense just cost you what it would if you had ppumped it to start with. The chance of you going thru two pumps is highly likely. I know somebody is going…

fluid leaking between tcase and trans . have change seal 3 times ,cleaned surfaces, replaced with double lipped seal, still leaks yes I checked tcase seal not leaking from there. had trans rebuild after 220000 miles never leaked before rebuild. any Ideas to fix it besides sealing flanges where they mateup ?

Too good to be true, the truck was running good, not overheating. Last night, I saw a puddle, maybe an oil leak. I checked and after running, it is leaking a mixture of oil and antifreeze by the front case, above the oil pan. It's lost a quart, it runs fine, but the killer dowel pin is a possibility. 2001 shouldn't have a killer dowel pin? Has anyone heard of this, and is the likely source the water pump? The engine runs, so the engine seems okay. Thoughts? And thanks for the help.

I have "leaky line syndrome" you know where the connectors hold the lines from rubbing each other along the transmission. They have started to rust and are beginning to drip. I called the Dodge dealer and the three lines cost $232.78 not including the little clips (rust starters) that are $3 each. The price didn't sound too hateful but I was wondering if there is another source that has lines with a port for the transmission temperature gauge that I am going to install?I called Geno's who sells them for the older trucks but not the 02. They recommended Goerend Transmissions who said they order them from Dodge and would have to charge shipping on top of that. No good.…