2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

anybody ever see or have these installed? http://www.ebay.com/itm/271635496536?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true Gearing up (ha ha) to start the freshening of my nv5600 for the project truck... and stumbled across these heavier than oem springs for the synchronizer rings. Supposed to make the rings more aggressive at speeding up or slowing down the required gear for engagement. Seems like when you 'add' pressure in a certain spot, problems could surface elsewhere.. I think this would be good for the speed shifting crowd, and when shifted 'normally'.. could help add life to these very expensive rings..

I found a used edge comp box for my 99 24 valve for really cheap but it doesn't have the wiring harness has anyone made their own or know how to?

Thinking about removing my Turbo to have it tested. Where would I take it for testing and is there a way to test without removing it from Manifold? Thank's, Kerley

Do you need to disconnect the rear driveline? Or can you just put the transfere case and auto trans in neutral and be on your way? Thank you

Install some DAP 7x.009 injectors. Everything went smooth and took my time checking everything. Tightened everything to spec's. Bled the system after installing and she cranked right up. Nothing leaks but now after sitting over night I have to crank on it a good minute or so to get it started. Before I couldn't hardly get my hand on the key and it would be running. At first I thought it may be some air in the system still seeking higher ground but after a couple weeks Im starting to wonder if maybe it's something else. I cleaned everything good and also put new orings on the crossovers. Any ideas on what else I should look for. Also have fass lift pump 17 at idle and…

I just swapped out my good non-slipping 99 4x4 47re trans and installed a brand new South Bend clutch/flywheel kit, rebuilt NV4500 trans, and changed the input shaft on my 241DLD t-case. My friend entered my VIN into the PCM so there would not be any VIN mismatch codes thrown. I swapped out my auto PCM with a 99 Dodge Cummins 5 speed PCM, connected the two outer wires from the auto trans NSS to the nv4500 reverse lights switch, ran the black/white tracer center wire up to the CSS, and then grounded the 2nd wire on the CSS to the left side under the dash where there is a common ground point. I'm still using the factory auto instrument cluster and the auto trans PCM wirin…

I have a lift pump issue I am chasing. Now before you tell me Raptor is junk, get a FASS I switched to my spare pump today and still the same symptoms so I'm ruling the pump out for now. Most of the time when cold I'll key on, hear the 1sec pump run and away we go as normal. Pump always holds 18 psi once it's running. When the truck is warmed up and I shut it off for a few mins. and go to restart, most of the time I hear a clunk, clunk, clunk from the LP. After that sometimes it will run and sometimes not. I usually bump the starter until it does run and then start. Once running it never shuts off and hold good pressure. What makes it hard to diagnose is that it does not …

Easiest way to explain is when i am down shifting into 3rd 2nd and 1st it sounds like its winding down, matching the rpms (as it slows, the sound slows). It does not do it in 5th and 4th and started not to long ago. any ideas of where to even start looking? thanks for any help, i am sure more info will be needed so just ask away

I have a leak and loosing power steering fluid. I changed the pump, but I'm leaking fluid frowim the hydraboost near the vacuum brake booster. Is this an O-ring I can replace or does this mean a re built hydraboost unit from NAPA? I also have no vacuum for switching the defrost and vent, is this related? Thanks for any suggestions

Hi All, have not been on the site for a while. To many other things in life going on. Had to go reset my password to get back on. So I have a quick question for you all. In the last week my truck 1998.5 24V has been acting up. After it sits overnight, go out in the morning to cold start it, it will fire right up, run for 10-15 seconds and then die, like it ran out of fuel. Then it is a real bear to restart. It acts like it's out of fuel, or losing prime. It only does this the 1st cold start of the day, the rest of the time you shut it off and restart it throughout the day, it fires right off and runs great!! My driveway is level or flat, no steep inclines ar…

This morning I drove the truck to take my son to school and then run a few errands. Transmission shifted normally, truck ran fine, nothing out of the ordinary. This evening I went to pick him up from school and once I hit the road it wouldn't shift out of second gear, not even manually. I get to the school, check fluid, its full and was just changed in October when I installed the new torque converter. I shut the truck off, started it back up, and it shifted fine for about a half mile then it started hanging in second again. I pulled up to a stop light and it started jerking and bucking, so I threw it in neutral. I made it to my driveway in second gear then trying to get …

I'm ready to install my Autometer Boost and Pyrometer Gages. I am concerned with the exhaust manifold drilling necessary to install the Pyrometer guage. The directions are all here and installation is no big deal but I do not trust myself with the drilling so I think it would be better to remove the exhaust manifold and have a Machine shop do the drilling and tapping of the threads, also I would know that there was no debris left to destroy the Turbo. So my question. Is there any gaskets other than the Exhaust Manifold and the Flange gasket seal and is it necessary to disconnect the Turbo from the exhaust down pipe? I know these are simple questions but I've never…

OMG... All the horror stories of how hard it is and troublesome it is to rebuild your vacuum pump. I did mine from start to finish in 2 hours taking my time. No more oil leak from there now. But now I got to get a front crank seal and replace it. I left the power steering pump attached and just yanked the vacuum pump. Man this is such a easy job to do... I'm going to make a write up...

Here you go gang I did a full YouTube video of how I changed out the master and slave cylinder and bled the system out and installed. I'll get this moved over to the article database and updated as well.

I want to know if the vp44 is the same for a 1998.5 to a 2001 or there is difference between?

Which one is the best for a good mpg and not to much for destroying my auto transmission

hey guys looking for injection line for number 1 cylinder from injection pump to head just had one rupture broke down on the side of the road I 95 toll road approximately 2 miles north of exit 7 in Maine is anybody anywhere remotely close that might have a source for that injection line please call me ASAP directly my cell number is 541 232 9958

Hey, I have a question and want to make sure i am not over thinking this, I did the conversion a few weeks ago when my regulator in the ECM decided to go crazy and cook my alternator i did the conversion that in the tech article but did come changes because it tried to overcharge (bad reference voltage sampling point) with that fixed, I am now getting 14.4 with a high of 14.5 and a low of 14.3 so here is my question and concern, from what i understand, the ecm would cut the alternator when the grids would cycle. this conversion does not allow this provision. now i do have a circuit designed that will cut the alternator when the grids are energized. currently …

truck died on the way to church. Originally had P0236 p0177 p1693 p0602 p0500. However These are all pretty standard for me with the smarty, no fuel canister, and having just spun the tires with the new turbo. I cleared the codes and no other codes came up after trying to crank again. Kinda odd to get a no code die and no start... but I'm thinking the vp44 randomly decided to die. Any thoughts?

I will be on the road for the next couple weeks and will be parking my truck in some undesirable spots and wanted some ideas as how to disable my truck so if someone was to get in it and broke the ignition they could not start it. I did try pulling the AOD relay but it still started but had no dash power. Is there any other relay or fuse that I could pull quick and easy even under the hood that will keep it from starting that would not be so obvious that a thief would notice. This is a emergency trip and I may not be able to respond but I will be able to read what was posted so don't be offended if you don't hear from me. Thank you ahead of time for any new ideas. Bob