2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Where to start.. 2001 dodge 2500 144,000 miles BHAF, Mia silencer ring, 5in exhaust, 35 in tires. I just bought this truck 2 weeks ago went and test drove it everything good but the abs light was on he said he would get it fixed before he gave it to me and it was but now the speedo is stuck on 26mph but will go back to 0 when i turn the truck off. I tried the cluster test hoping it would fix it or something but still the same thing and it read no codes during that. Now with the codes i have been doing my homework and looking around to try and figure this out myself but not to sure where the best place to start with so much wrong. I did thi…

My truck sputtered out on me this morning. Started just fine and ran about twenty miles and then it gave one quick sputter and it just died. It wants to turn over but will not. I checked the codes and there are none. It has been running just fine no probs. I pulled the injector lines and I am getting fuel thru them. I can hear the lift pump working when I turn the key. Its like it is out of diesel ? perhaps bad gas ? I had about 1/4 of a tank on Friday so I filled up and have driven about 40 miles total with the new diesel with no problem till now. I did not look at my FP gauge this morning, when I started the truck but it was working just fine on friday always right at 1…

I am wondering if I can tweak something in my tuning to give me a little more power on hills. If I am running 55 up a decent grade it's like it's stuck between wanting to down shift and just not having the power to pick up the speed I want it too. Kinda hard to explain so I hope I make some sense. I know some bigger injectors and turbo would help more than anything.

I'm assuming I'll need valve seals. Any way to do it without removing head or injectors? If I could figure out where tdc is for each cylinder valves should not fall in. Lol. #6 hard to do?

Has anyone here had any experince with the lock n stitch method on repairing a 53 block? I have some ideas of just brazing it and then use there bracket to help support the block.I have no idea how much the lock n stitch is cost wise.

So guys, I developed lock up issues Friday morning. My truck was going subtle in and out. Ironically at the exact same time my trans developed shifting issues. Currently it is holding 1st gear to 2,500 rpm, and shifting between 45-55, and I also have the unlock and lock up problems as well. I traced an issues with a loose positive battery terminal and the grid heaters. Today I tested my vac, and I had .027-.033 at the batteries. And .04-.065 with the grids during away. After fixing the terminal using threaded rod and some nuts, the grid heater drop is now 12.15v instead of 10.15v. However, after the repair my alternator now is pushing .09 and the ba…

@IBMobile Got my lockup switch installed today. Hit momentary switch and converter locks. Hit it again converter unlocks. Hit brake it unlocks. I used a toggle switch instead of a dimmer switch. When i flip the toggle it locks without pressing the momentary switch and brakes do not unlock converter. Only did a short drive to check operation but seems to work fine. Thanks for the write up.

So I know that the lockup switch is a pretty well discussed topic but I was wondering. For those that have the switch either momentary or constant, do you see any benefit to having the option to use either one? For instance, I was thinking of having a momentary foot peddle switch up by the parking brake and another on/off switch on my console somewhere for times where I would want to keep it on and not have to hold the foot switch down. Good? bad? dumb? pointless? genius?!

Getting tired of spinning A wheel on slipery roads instead of ALL wheels. Got a 2001 2500 4x4 5.9. Looking to get some sort of traction device installed this fall. Who has what on their rig, and what do you recommend? Not looking to go rock crawling, just everyday driving, and pulling a trailer in the winter.

Okay I’m not sure I fully understand what putting in a lockup switch will do. I understand how it works and why to put it in but I need to know exactly what changes when it comes to drivability. I guess what what I would like is a 3 way lockup switch that 1. Has completely stock lockup function 2. Can lock/unlock the t/c on demand 3. Can just prevent lockup from happening until commanded by the switch and then can unlock via brake pedal. Is that hat how they all work? Or am I asking for something that doesn’t exist. Ultimately I want to keep it as stock as possible for people like my wife or whoever may use my truck bu…

I have a fairly good idea of how the lockup switch works. I am curious though, if you install a switch but don't have the switch on, will the converter lock/unlock like normal? Do you have to control it 100% of the time if you install the switch? I'm not really sure I need or want to do it, these are just questions I keep asking myself every time I see a post related to it.

Today I wired in a lockup switch, into an existing switch panel I have that has b+ to the switches. I ran the switches wire to a relay and when I flip the switch it sends positive to the relay. The relay sends ground to the b11 orange/black wire on the white middle connector, problem is it seems when I turn the switch on it unlocks the converter and my speedometer stops working, anyone seen this? Thanks

Seems that Fass feeds too much pressure and the VP44 does not like it. The pump is controlled through a relay tied into the stock pump to supply pilot voltage to the relay coil, I guess just that split second that it puts pressure to the pump is enough to screw it up. If I wait, for the pressure to drop, it will start OK. I was thinking of putting a time delay relay on the pump? http://www.primelec.com/Electronic-Components/Relays/AGASTAT-12-Volt-On-Delay-p7886012.html

sorry going to be long post.2001 cummins quad adr. dap 150s fass 150. installed injectors and quad about 6 months ago,everything fine until last week, towed 10000 lb trailer 100 mi fine, 100 mi back home fine, next morning no start o fuelpressure, loosened fuel filter primed fass started fine, next time to start same. i checked for leaks found none, bolt on back of head ,t back of head,all fuel lines same no start 0 fuel pressure until i prime fass. removed fuel and water sep checked gaskets installed now have instant fuel pressure on key bump and 25 sec starter bump,still have a long crank after truck sits for a while. park nose down starts fine.question can injector or …

Hi, just joined the forum and this is my first tread.A week ago replaced my vp44 and upgraded lift pump to airdog2-165, did everything myself and truck started right after bleeding. I've been driving the truck since i got it back running and have noticed that the truck now takes longer to start. I've been searching the internet and haven't found an aswer to my problem, finally found this forum and any help would be appreciated.

I am having a longer cranking issuse then i ever experienced ,I just had a airdog installed and now have excessive cranking ,now I have exchange a few sentences with one of the mopar members here and this is what I just did, 1st> the truck sat all night, went out unpluged the airdog turned key to start and it fired up about a 1 second or less crank,turned it off right away, 2nd> I plugged the airdog back in and turned the key to start without waiting for pump to prime it took about 1 1/2 seconds to crank over, 3rd my truck is sitting in a driveway with the front faceing up hill when it started the 1st and 2nd time I drove it for about 13 miles and about 30 mi…

Hi guys, I'm having a hard starting issue with my 99 24v manual. I noticed today that when i first started it it cranked for a few extra revolutions, maybe 5 seconds. I thought the fuel had probably leaked off since its been sitting for about a week. Went to the dentist left it set for about an hour, same issue. Had the same issue at work after setting for 4 hours. Tonight when I got home I immediately tried restarting the truck. It did the same thing, cranked for about 5-8 seconds then started. Here are my thoughts: 1). It seems to be cranking slower than normal. This leads me to believe that it could be bad batteries/starter not spinning the engine fas…

HI, MY TRUCK JUST STARTED TAKING LONGER TO START, I HAPPENS EVERY 1 OUT OF 3 TIMES I START HER UP. JUST REPLACED AIRDOG FILTER AND SEPARATOR, AIRFILTER, PURGED SYSTEM AND IS STILL DOING THE SAME. HAVE ABOUT 40K ON A NEW VP44 AND NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS. FUEL PRESSURE READING IS 17PSI AT IDLE AND 15PSI AT WOT. IF FEELS LIKE ITS GETTING AIR IN THE SYSTEM, IT TAKES ABOUT 5-10 SECONDS TO START AND WHEN IT DOES IT AUTO-ACCELERATES. ANY BODY FAMILIAR WITH THESE ISSUES???

Last week i was drivin down a bumpy gravel road when all of a sudden my fuel pressure gauge hits 0 and "quits working" Didnt think a thing about it. Drove home and parked it for 5 days while on vacation. Came back today, started just fine, first crank like always. Drove 20 miles and parked. 3 hours later i try to start it and it cranks for 3-4 seconds before starting perfectly. Trucks idle is slighty bouncing around and having a slight surge every once in a while. What should i check? Sorry im not the most techically gifted. I have a smarty and its set on level 2. Other info in sig what makes this a 911 situation is the amount of travelling i have been do…

What replacement parts, besides filters, do you guys, have in the tool box for long runs?I have to carry an extra stock lift pump and fuel pressure sending unit for the gauge.Are there any sensors or extra parts that are important?My last long run was over 1200 miles. What a blast!:ahhh:T.I.A.