2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Would like to ask if anyone on this form has any experience converting a 24V to a 12V. to include: injectors, injector pump, lift pump/heater, and fuel delivery from tank to engine?? Estimated COST, Shop Vs DIY?? Any and all input will be greatly appreciated.. Oh Yes, I'm a newbe to this form, and I have read ALOT of well written post in here on 2nd gen and 3rd gen tecnical topics. I'm currently loking at a 98 5spd CC 4X with 132K, I have'nt ruled out the evil 53 block yet on it, but the rest of it looooks way sweet and matches the miles.. Thanks again to all who read and post.

Here you go guys and gals. A 10 minute video explaining the entire fuel system of the 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. It shows operation of the lift pump, filter, fuel heater, VP44 and injectors. Someone really out did themselves on this video! http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i443/TannerSpangler1/?action=view&current=Cummins_ISB.mp4

So I've ordered new air horn gaskets from Geno's, didn't have them when installing the new vp44... I THINK I hear an air leak... would I get similar smoke if one of my inter-cooler boots was split?

I’ve been chasing issues with my VP for several months now. The truck would crank and run fine until it came up to operating temperature then would break up and most of the time shut off. so i but the bullet and ordered another VP from DAP. installed this VP along with new batteries and a fuel pressure gauge. I get the pump bleed and fired up. Runs good so while in the shop i was gonna swap out the dash. Got the new dash in and fired the truck up, after 5 seconds it shut off. Fired it up again and the same thing. Ran for 5 seconds and shut off. Third time it would not refire. So i contacted DAP and they said send it in and they would take a look at…

I had intermittent dead throttle which was getting worse. In Dec. I ordered a rebuilt vp44 from Midwest. Installed pump. Tried everything to get it to pump. Cranked for days with all injector lines cracked, 3 cracked, 1 cracked -- every configuration you could think of. Checked connections. Lots of fuel at input to pump. Running in-tank and stock pumps. Consulted here, justanswer, etc. Conclusion bad pump. Returned to Midwest and got replacement. Replacement no better. No fuel to output side of pump. Obviously nothing at injector lines. Lots of fuel at inlet. Nothing from return. Do I have really bad luck with pumps? And have gotten two bad rebuilt ones? …

I'm looking to add a 2wd low setup to my 2002 HO 6speed. From what I found so far there are 3 kits available, BD, Pacbrake, and Posi-Lok. Is there a preference of one over the others? is there anything else I missed? Two are vacuum based and the other is a mechanical setup. I want it for trailer maneuvering, taking some stress off the clutch.

Well I've been wanting to install a toggle switch to engage and disengage my CAD for a while now and finally took the time today to tackle the project. It will allow me to use the low range on my transfer case and remain in 2wd. It's very handy when moving trailers around in tight spaces like steep driveways and such in the mountains where I'm primarily working. I used a Clifford MJTV-5 pneumatic toggle switch and 1/4" air brake line. @TFaoro this should work for you as well so you can eng/disengage your CAD.

I need some experienced advice from you guys who live in weather that often gets snow/ice . I just had a new vp in and I installed a raptor 100 running around 18 ish psi....my truck is a 2wd...before I start getting too crazy with my effort to make the truck as reliable as possible and efficient I want to make sure that 2wd will not disappoint me in the long run... I have been off roading for 20 years, but not with such a long truck without 4wd...I am itching for a stick shift... I don't care about power as I care about reliability so the raptor is the only aftermarket part on the truck that would be considered a performance mod... I consider it a necessary to keep fuel s…

I just bought my truck a few months ago, this is my first diesel and I am very happy with it. I've been looking into getting the high idle and 3 cylinder high idle enabled on it and getting the fooler as I am tired of waiting for it to warm up. My concern is does the 3 cylinder high idle wear 3 cylinders more than the other 3? Does the firing order alternate when in 3 cylinder high idle? I just don't want to tear the engine up. I would think that if Cummins included this in the software that it would be ok to use, after all they are the experts.

So it finally got cold enough to kick on the 3 cylinder high idle. After it runs for about 5 minutes I noticed that it intermittently switches to 6 cylinder high idle. I've had high idle for 3 years and this has never happened. When it does it it only does it for a second or less then it goes right back to 3 cylinder. Once it starts it does it 5-10 times per minute. I have searched on many forums with no findings of similar symptoms. Wondering if anyone has any idea on possible causes or has seen any threads with info on the topic.I'm going to attach a data log from quadzilla. It happened multiple times here 3cylhi.csv Here's a video, can slightly hear it Hi.mp4

I’m thinking I’d like a lockup switch but I also want the option of having fully factory operation for when my wife or some other unsuspecting person drives my truck. I’m thinking factory/unlocked/locked. Is it possible? How would one go about wiring that up? Reason I want a switch is my triple disk converter seems to lockup to early for my engine. (All stock engine/tuning with exception to trans goodies from dynamic and the triple disk TC) It severely barks the turbo sometimes if I’m into the throttle enough or if I’m really light on the pedal it will actually lock and then immediately unlock almost as if it quickly realizes it’s too soon. This h…

My problem started out with the normal od lock and unlock issues. I cleaned all the grounds and tightened them and did the same with the battery terminal connections. That seemed to solve the problem for about a week and a half then it started again. I ended up replacing the APPS and that worked for all of three days. Recently I have replaced the alternator along with the brake light switch. Now when I drive it if I barely accelerate the rpms will shoot way up to 2500 or so. It will shift normal when doing this however it will usually start the od lock and unlock a few minutes later. it will lock and unlock several times before downshifting a gear and sometimes staying in…

Manufacturer recommends oil to be changed at the 7,500 mile interval along with other things. I've heard of people going to the full 7,500 and some won't even go past 3,000.I know it's a dumb question to be asking but, I can only come up with 2 conclusions to this.3,000 miles can be pretty costly but, increases engine life as it's being flushed out with new oil. I guess those who can afford will do this.7,500 will be more cost effective in the long run but, you have just doubled the contaminants introduced into the system by doing it at this time. We all know that oil serves us 4 purposes, and that is, seal, cool, lubricate, and clean. Only makes sense that all four of th…

I figured now would be a good time to change the fuel filters being its double the typical mileage. Stock is suppose to change out at 15,000 miles or every other oil change. Here is what the stock filter and the Donaldson P551315 looks like after 30,000 miles of fuel pumped through them.I must be getting clean fuel because I was totally expecting after 30,000 miles I would be look at a AirDog filter that was black and the stock filter about the color I see now. But I was shocked to see both rather light colored. Now I know to just use my fuel pressure gauge and look for the fuel pressure drop. Because both of these could of gone farther yet and still in good condition.

I changed them early at 30k miles. Yea I need to leave them in longer. I'm changing too early at 30k miles. Factory rate 15k miles is like fresh out the box yet. Running good ol' petroleum diesel. Mostly from Maverik Fuel Stations here on the west side.

I am about to rebuild my front end steering in my 01 dodge ram 2500 quad cab 5.9l 6cyl. and they asked if its a 3500 lb or 4500 lb front axle both show dana 60 which i have, so how do you tell which one is which?

Hey guys I got a few questions I just installed a compound turbo kit on my 2000 Cummins. My question is why does the small charger need to be set at 25 psi? The lowest I could get it with the Boost elbow is 32 psi when it starts to open, I don't think I can adjust the actuator because it does not have a nut on it. What would the harm be if I just left it at 32 psi? Thanks everybody

It was finally time for front rotors and pads so I went ahead and did the 3rd gen caliper brackets, rotors and pads. I've ordered the brake line kit @jlbayes suggested a Russell 694540 as well. All I can say is it's well worth doing! Thanks @trreed for the positive report back after doing the conversion and towing with them...and I "borrowed " your pad comparison picture from your thread.

Will a 3rd Gen steering gearbox bolt up to a 2nd Gen frame and will the lines be the same? I have a chance to buy one and was thinking of swapping mine out. Thanks!!!

This is part 1...... Next being adjustable track bar and traction bars both already on order. Before After Already did the 3rd gen brakes too.