2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

333K on truck, tyranny rebuilt by dodge at 70K; its starting to show its age. 1qt of fluid every 200 miles, shudders on the 2-3 up shift. I tow a 25' travel trailer and a 5 ton equipment trailer with mini excavator and a single car trailer with my RX2. Budget is the limiting factor, figure 3K max

I need to clean my connections in hopes of improved automatic transmission shifting. I am wondering about the use of dynalectric grease on connections followed by that red battery connection aerosol spray to keep connections sealed.

For a long time now I have been contemplating better filtration for my truck as it is still using the stock filter housing.....post assassin pump. I have been wanting to purchase a VP max 3 micron dual remote filter kit from vulcan to take care of this and keep the pump clean and debri free also. I just couldn't pull the trigger as it seemed something more important always required my attention. As I cruised through craigslist the other night I stumbled upon a fella selling a brand new setup still in the box and plastic wrap. He had purchased it for his common rail, but ended up buying a FASS after a lift pump failure. He no longer needed and the price was right..…

I could use some advice on storing my truck this winter. Unfortunately I have to store it outside in the Utah winter. I put a battery tender on the batteries and that has worked well in the past. The real question is the fuel. I have a 98Gal tank in the bed, which is out of the weather via an industrial topper. Should I fill up the tank? Should I burn out all the summer fuel and put in winterized fuel? Is there an additive I should put in the tank? What is the best way to take care of the fuel system while it sits in the winter? I don’t drive the truck in the winter because they use salt on the roads, and I want this truck to last until I am gone…..

So I was approached yesterday with a strange offer. A gentleman near my buddy's shop offered to trade me an 08 6.7 Mega cab for my truck. Straight up title for title. I thought he was full of it but today he did it again. So here I am asking myself really?? Are our trucks becoming that sought after? Talking to my buddy he says the guy is a builder, ie builds lots of cars from insurance yards to Craigslist.The truck has an H&S EGR delete and 4" exhaust with no cat. What do you think? I love my truck and all but

Looking for some opinions on what's the best setting to run on the Edge Comp while towing. I'll be pulling around 8,000lbs. Not towing I run 5x5.

Saturday had a little trouble getting the truck to start. Checked for codes with my handy dandy DRB3 and sure enough crank position sensor showed up . Ordered 1 and it will be in tommorow afternoon at the local dealer. Figured I was okay to run some errands with it today...not so much. Quit all together at a local muffler shop...grrrr. Figured might as well get it floated home, no problem. Home in the yard I do a bit of diagnosis and think it strange that I have 1 lb fuel pressure. So I use a piece of harness and jump the pump direct...no sound. Pull the pump and find the wires burnt right off at the pump. Must have chafed or something but I dont know why. Nothi…

I used the search function and didn't find much, and I read the thread that is just below this one, but didn't really find anything that was useful to my situation. I just bought and installed a TST PM3, replacing my edge comp. It came with the R45 remote, which shows boost and exhaust temp. The box will not fuel without a pyrometer reading, and I do am not going to remove my autometer gauge. I also plan on installing a Snow Performance MPG max kit this coming summer (Also requires an EGT Probe). What are your suggestions? 2 in the manifold 1 post turbo? All 3 in the manifold? If so where should I drill? Thanks for the help!

I have a 1998 qcsb 4x4 5 speed and I noticed a slight movement in the tach needle at all rpms. It has done it since I bought it back in april and was wondering if it might be a warning sign of a sensor on its way out. It only moves about the width of the needle and I cant feel and change in speed or engine noise. I am going on a 3 week trip at the end of the month and thought that I might bring a spare but I don't know if it would be, the crank or cam sensor. All of my other trucks seem to have a rock solid tach needle but this has me bugged.

Starting to get a bad vibration in the seat and the floor that is really noticeable around 55-60 mph. Just had all 6 tires road force balanced yesterday and that didn't help. Which my buddy told me it wouldn't help. Hes saying ujoints. I tried moving the shaft around to see if I could see any slop anywhere but couldn't. Just did a complete brake job also. Could the drums be out of balance? How hard is it to change ujoints? Do you need special tools and presses? Carrier bearing bad? Shaft out of balance? Don't know where to start. Don't really want to start throwing money at it. Any way to tying to help pin point it

Just wondering how many are using them ? I used the Fleetguard 9009 on a N-14 and got oil changes out to 40,000 miles, I have been reading about the Fleetguard 9028 that will fit the 5.9 engine ,it was designed for Komatsu or Kubota Equipt. using the 5.9 Cummins. Seems that Baldwin and Donaldson both offer them . Cummins stratapore and stacked disk media was great in my N-14 , so any thoughts ?

So I came out to my truck this morning and saw a pretty good size puddle under it. Now my parking lot at our apartment complex just got re-sealed the day before, so I figured that helped with the size of the puddle but when I saw it running off I got worried. SO I babied it to work and parked in on a flat surface and waited. It took about 2 hours before it started dripping, at first I thought it was coolant but it wasn't, it was oil. I crawled under and I saw the oil dripping right from behind the harmonic balancer. I am assuming that it has to be either the front main seal or from the timing cover. I have never attempted a front main seal, so what do I need to loo…

Ok I go to tap my vp44 and the wire you are supposed to tap is missing the insulation and some of the wires are broke ? Can you replace the wire ?

Does anyone here know how to set up traction bars for towing? I know the axle moves backwards as weight is applied, so I'm curious if I should unhook the bars, load the trailer, then hook em back up and set the pre-load on them........ Any advice is appreciated!

I'm not good with wiring/volts etc. I'm trying to install a Timbo APPS and I can't seem to get things right. My battery tester works, but only has a range of 4v-19v (first picture) so it's out of range for the APPS. I just bought a another voltmeter and I can't even get it to read the battery volts...do I have things plugged in the right areas? According to the directions I should hvae the leads in the right areas and setting at 200 or 500 for the battery and I'm still getting nothing!

I have a scangage II that I use as a monitor and want it to display my oil pressure. Has anybody been able to get it to read the oil pressure from the pcm. I haven't been able to figure how to get my truck to show at the bottom of my posts so any help would be appreciated so here it is 1998.5 stock except BHAF , ISSPRO A pillar gauges , 4" exhaust , BD boost fooler waste gate line plugged

Here I'm going to try to go through everything I did to put an he351cw off of a 2005 CR Cummins onto my 2002 24valve Cummins. There may be some redundant pictures in here, so bear with me! I started by buying the parts I knew I would need. 2 turbo mounting studs from Cummins (I bought the stock length for an 05) These screwed into the bottom of the manifold. The other two were plenty long. 2 longer oil return tube mounting bolts 2 90degree exhaust elbows from Litz Auto (I think they measured 3x3 in length) 1 HE351cw wastegate plug from DAP.http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/he351%20solenoid%20cap%20tapped.htm T3 turbo manifold gasket. http://www.dieselauto…

I can find all the normal gaskets, turbo to manifold, oil out, oil in, boost out ect. The gasket I can not find for the hx35 is right next to the waste gate and before the cast elbow that attaches to the exhaust pipe. It has an irregular shape with 5 bolts. Exterior measurements of 6 X 4.5

I'm ordering a South Bend and thought it would be pertinent to know what you guys have had to do to change the clutch in my 5 speed. Any things I should watch out for or anything I need to get before I start. I'm assuming I'm going to need a tranny jack and in saying that, do I have to split the tranny and transfer case if I have a tranny jack? Thanks.

I dont want to railroad an awesome thread but I'd like to touch on the topic of fuel cooling via a fuel cooler of some sort. I just have this crazy premonition that there needs to be a fuel cooler on these trucks. Given what I recently experienced while towing a very large trailer in 100*+ weather uphill with the engine at 215*-220* and having the throttle do something unexpectedly weird, excessive fuel temps or just plain excessively hot PSG is becoming very likely the culprit of what happened. I'm going to be digging into this topic really heavily and searching for an optimal small radiator to mount somewhere under or in front of the truck. Possibly with a fan as…