2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ladies and gents, i need to ask if anyone has a RV275 injector in good working order new/used they want to sell or give away? I think #6 may have been damaged when the cylinder got too hot. Please let me know as soon as possible, pm me if you do. thank you all for your help! randy

So, went camping with son this weekend and his 98.5 had some problems we're trying to figure out. Went for a short drive and smelled smoke, turned off truck and looked under hood, alternator was smoking! Alternator was hot as hell! Fidled around a bit with the connector coming out of it and he thought they were possibly touching each other? One definitely was showing bare wire at connector. Any how, after messing with those wires he turned truck back on and alternator seemed operate at least cool to touch , problem is now no WTS lamp and grid heater not working. We did get it started in morning but below freezing and it wasn't happy! Didn't think about…

I started up my truck today, it's in a dead-cold been-parked state. I got a check engine light, the check gauges warning text light came on and immediately my temperature gauge pegged. The engine is cold! I check codes with the key turn method I get: P1693 followed by P0118. I pull more codes with my ODB2 reader and get P0118 & P0116 I tested the temperature sensor for ohms. Room temp, about 70 degrees, I get 8.6k ohms Cold water from the fridge I get 19.3k Boiling water I get 700 ohms It's doing something but not sure if it's doing that something right or not. I tested the connec…

Alright, guys so it is a long story but I just finished rebuilding the engine on my truck and got it in and am trying to get it started. It is a 01 with a 6spd. I have an airdog 150 installed as well and many other engine parts. I have been cranking and cracking injector lines and fuel will come out but it won't start. I did, however, hotwire the pump and got it to start and idle just fine as it should so I know my pump is good.. So, that narrows it down to something in the harness or CAN bus wiring. Dont know if maybe I have a bad ECM? I tested the pins on the ecm and all of my power and ground curcuits are good. Looking for some advice and further diagn…

Ok guys my truck has me stumped! Ill start from the begining and tell everything... My truck was doing the TC Lock and unlock at 45 MPH, after reading some stuff online I tried wiggling the black and white wire going from the battery to the alternator, stopped that problem I would just have to wiggle it every 3 weeks or so. The WTSL wasnt coming on either. So one morning(Months Later)I was leaving and my truck would idle fine but when I put it in gear I would have to push the throttle down like half way to get it to go, the truck felt like it had no power, it went to 3000 RPMs before it would shift, and when it did shift it felt like it was going to die. I pulled over lik…

Well i changed my output shaft seal on the NV5600 and when everything was bolted back up and fluid filled in the TC the TC doesnt wana shift out of 2wd. The shifter does not wana budge. Truck went into gear and had no issue there but cant engage 4x4 or put it in N. Did i do something wrong?? Please help me out.Thanks

I'm ready to install my Autometer Boost and Pyrometer Gages. I am concerned with the exhaust manifold drilling necessary to install the Pyrometer guage. The directions are all here and installation is no big deal but I do not trust myself with the drilling so I think it would be better to remove the exhaust manifold and have a Machine shop do the drilling and tapping of the threads, also I would know that there was no debris left to destroy the Turbo. So my question. Is there any gaskets other than the Exhaust Manifold and the Flange gasket seal and is it necessary to disconnect the Turbo from the exhaust down pipe? I know these are simple questions but I've never…

I'm ready to buy some injectors but I need a little help deciding. I've narrowed it down to RV275's or DAP 75hp aftermarket. I want to keep my cores. I really want the 75hp but worried about aftermarket bodies. Would like to hear some opinions.

Somone correct me if I am wrong!If my truck is running, and I supply power to the coil of my lift pump relay!Now I turn off the ignition will the engine stay running until I remove power from the lift pump relay?If nothing else stops the engine then that will allow it to run?

Retracted question

I think I cleaned my cables for the last time, Its time to replace them all. So ive been looking into a set from custom cables, but for 300 bucks I think I could build my own for about 1/2 the cost. I was thinking about going with 2/0 size for both sides and using a good quality military style clamps, As far as the cable I don't know if I should spend the extra money and use marine grade cable or if welding cable/ automotive cable in the same size would be just as good. And is crimping the best way to fasten all this together rather than soldier,

so i went to the pawn shop earlier to sell some tool boxes, and i noticed my truck took a fraction of a second too long to crank...i thought no big deal...and then goin there(it's only a mile from my house) i felt what i thought may be the dreaded dead pedal...but in my case it was that it went back to idle with my foot on it....so anyway i ignored it.... i then left the pawn shop(with my toolboxes still) and drove at the most 2 miles and all of a sudden it starts missing and dies on me....i had to get pulled to a friend's house by a 6.7 too... so anyway...before the questions arise, i'm running an air tex stock replacement fuel pump, which works...but admitedly no fuel p…

Hey guys, need some help with and 01 2500 4x4 reg. cab 151000mi. my first problem is with the track bar. Bought a truck from an auction, had no track bar. On a budget so went to advance auto parts got an oe track bar, truck has a leveling kit on. Anyway the ball joint end that attaches at the frame doesn't seem to seat correctly its like there just not enough slack in the ball joint. Am I doing something wrong or am I fighting the leveling kit and need and adjustable track. Really thought its would work with just a leveling kit? Tryed everything I can think of it just will not seat correctly you can get the nut started but it dont lay flat if that makes sense. Second prob…

Need some help on locating a mass quanity of this plug, does anybody know where to find a supplier for it, it is the same as the map sensor on a 2002 dodge, im looking for the male version of it(same as sensor) here is a pic of the female end. http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSWf4nv7FA3qJoTLT2f9XO3HIcF6WZnPIdlwYEOPR3-CmSFFGrT

@IBMobile any chance you could give me a call when you have a few minutes to spare? If so please reply and I'll give you ny number. Thank you if you can, understand if you can not. Thanks, Greg

Hey everyone. I posted on Cumminsforum, but nobody like writing back. Hopefully, some more activity here.Anyway, my truck is making a new noise that is concerning me. As I'm driving, there is recently a lot of driveline whine which has gotten louder. Under power, it sounds like the rear. Just recently, there is a new addition to the party. When I let off the gas, and the engine is holding back from about 40-MPH to 10-MPH, there is a clicking noise that slows as the truck slows (remember, my transmission has a strong lockout). So, I thought U-joints, right? Well, I crawled under the truck and checked the front and rear u-joints and they seem fine. They are spicers after al…

Ok here it is y2k Cty auto with fass 95 at the tank stock filter setup. If I park it up hill I have to reprime it in the morning. If I clamp the fuel line On the inlet side of the fuel filter it start right up. I have a gauge line plumbed in where the supply line goes into The injection pump and I have checked this area back to the filter and sending unit new oem filter cap rechecked For seal no fuel leaks found anyplace back to the tank. Which side of the fuel filter should I be looking? Thanks for the help

I did something incredibly stupid... I attempted to disassemble my grid heater, like the actual unit itself. Upon doing so, I discovered that there is special washers used to keep it sealed. Note to self: do not disassemble grid heater unit itself. Now I need a new one. Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to un do what I've done. With that being said, does anyone have a nice used grid heater they would be willing to sell? Thank you.

Anyone tell me the best way to pull the Radiator out.... thought i saw a thread a while back and they removed the 3-bolts on the top post over the radiator, (the one bolted to the fenders) and lifted the hole thing out togrther.... I have got to remove the front cover because of oil leak... need to reseal w. gasket or silcone??? Richie ---------- Post added at 02:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ---------- Sorry, I guess the correct term is "FRONT TIMING COVER"

IS IT COMPLICATED JOB TO DROP VALVE BODY AND INSTALL 3-4 ACCUMULATOR I installed a new Goerend/ Dynotec Transmission last February as some of you may have noticed in my sig. It works Great except I've noticed that it shifts into 4th gear Hard. So i figured it was probably just settling in where it was new and may just need adjustment later on and i had gotten busy with business and other things so i just kinda put it off till later and see if it got better, i was running highway when i did drive it so no big deal, well lately I've been riding it around local and its become a PITA. So i Called Ken at DYNOTEC and asked him about it and he insured me it is an e…