2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Iv posted this here before and never found the issue. It has gotten to the point they won’t stay on longer than 30 seconds and then flicker madly. All wiring looks good. Could it be a faulty headlight/fog light switch? Bulbs?

Took my truck for it's yearly MOT check today failed on drivers side upper and lower ball joint.... no problem got those drivers side wheel bearing ..... haven't got one, have a 2006 to 2008 but my guess is it will be different ?? Here in the UK a lot of replacement wheel bearings are just that... just the bearing and not the whole thing, we just press the 2 peices apart, remove the bearing and repress back together, is this possible on a 98 4wd with no front ABS, I have a good bearing company not to far from me so if it pressed apart and there's a number on the actual bearing it may be a go ?? Changing the bearing would be quicker than ordering the w…

This might be a silly question for all you dually owners, but I was helping my Son with his brakes today, and I`m curious .. Do the front wheels rotate out with one of the rear duals? They appear to be all identical rims, but the fronts have a chrome cover on the outer.. I`m just wondering if dually owners bother with tire rotation. P.S. Sorry I think I put this in the wrong sub forum

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,2,4-trimethylbenzene Systematic Name 1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene Benzene, 1,2,3-trimethyl-

What do you guys think...have Vulcan fuel pressure test gauge. It goes zero to 30 psi. I want to test my 5.4 gas fuel pump. Looking for 20 thru 40 psi. Will gauge break if it goes or (max) 30 psi or will gauge just top out. And I assume vulcans test gauge doesn't care if diesel or gas?

My push on tee fitting is leaking at the stem going to fuel gauge, very little but enough I should fix. Wrapped with Teflon tape maybe 4 or 5 wraps. Buy another fitting or is JB Weld alright to use in diesel fuel?

So I have been kicking tires lol, this is what I came up with. My truck has to have 3.55 gear ratio, at 65 its 1800 or so and sucks as a 1 ton tow rig. This tire comparison is a Firestone LT 235 85 r16 to LT235 75 r16 Tire 1 Tire 2 Diff Diameter 31.73 29,88 -6.19 with 9.25 same sidewall 7.86 6.94 -13.33 circumference 99.68 93.86 - 6.19 Revs/mile 635.65 …

OK, so I have my ideas about what this might be. Anxious to hear your thoughts.A few times now I have turned the key to start the truck and let go before the engine catches. So, I just twist the key for too short a time and the engine doesn't catch. Then I try again and it will crank and crank and now start for almost exactly an hour. Then it starts right up.There is an aftermarket alarm on the truck and I have no remote. Not sure if it ever had one. I cannot smell fuel in the tail pipe while cranking; so, no fuel is being delivered. When it does start, I will fire right up with just a small puff of black smoke at the tailpipe. So I don't think there is a ton of fuel flow…

Getting ready to purchase gauges.What is the typical factory boost pressure range? Trying to decide on a 10 - 30 psi guage or 10 - 50 psi.Also, I'm going to install an EGT guage as well. Were do most guys put the thermocouple probe? I'll probably drill a hole & tap 1/8 npt on the top of the exh manifold pre-turbo - that is right there before the flange where the manifold bolts up to the turbo. That's where I did it with great success in my isuzu NPR diesel.And for you guys who are going to warn me about metal drill/tap chips falling in and wrecking the turbo, don't worry as the best way is to drill and tap slowly while engine is idling. Thats right! Get up there a…

dont know the fella, but follow him on instagram and he posted this. some decent info if others didnt know, some i didnt know either. really hope is continues to how he put the VP44 24v in his 1st gen truck.

I have never had one die but here's whats happing. It shuts off just like you turned the key off and back on in a split second. It did it about 10 times in two miles. I have been hauling heavy off and on for about two weeks. I mean my foot in it climbing hills and such with about 29k combo weight. Another thing my boost will only climb to 21 and takes for ever to get there. EGTS wont get above 1000. Now the only thing I am running is the boost elbow that came with the old Edge EZ, you would think it would be better than that. I have just been driving like grand paw for the past year or so but am back to custom baling for the public. I didn't know it was so low on HP. This…

Truck revs up on its own only when under 1000 rpms. When at a stop sign or light it revs from about 800-850 but I think I’ve seen it spike as high as 1000. Code reader shows no codes but key trick shows apps voltage too high. Not sure if it’s the apps though because it’s a timbo and it’s worked great for a few months. And scanner shows throttle at 0% when it revs up.

friday of last week i drove home from Elizabeth city nc to hickory nc. the truck ran beautiful with no problems. ran it out of fuel the next day. reprimed everything no problem. checked all my fluid including oil sunday before leaving for columbia tn on monday. the truck ran flawlessly again. had my 5th wheel on, drove over the bluridge mountains no problems what so ever. stopped to buy fuel and noticed some oily residue on the landing gear and front of the rv. looked under the truck a i could see fluid on every thing, not dripping anywher but wet pretty much all over. opened the hood and all the resevoirs were full so i pulled the dipstick and i was growing oil. it appea…

Hey Gang... while I was out on my trip to Hot Springs campground with MoparMom the first night we stayed in Emmett, ID. The next morning got up and pick up our stuff in the RV and to go and leave. Jumped in the seat and got half a crank and dead. Popped the hood. Everything appears fine. MoparMom getting worried we are stuck in Emmett, ID. Like I told her don't even sweat it I've diagnosed this a million times. So... 1. Swap starter solenoid relay with trailer relay (Nothing) 2. Swap the Starter solenoid fuse with Engine Control fuse (Start) So I hopped back in the truck and start out and (Ding Ding Ding) and volts fell to zero, and few other gauges died.…

Well ever since I've starting to work with Lindy I've really taken interest in making my truck near perfect again. I'm actually chasing down all the little weeping leaks. Like I've known about a fuel leak for quite awhile in the back either #6 injector line or the return at the back of the head. So since I've been keeping the rig washed down it really showing up now. So now I pulled the valve cover snugged the return banjo. This really made the job easy to reach the banjo bolt. As a matter of fact the IAT sensor is a breeze to get at without the hoist ring and the valve cover. Then backed off and reseated the injector line. So later on I got to degrease the back of the en…

I noticed an oil leak that came from coolant overflow tank, mechanic says oil cooler ruptured and both systems are contaminated and I have "sludge" in both systems. How did my engine get torpedoed by a non maintenance part, I don't understand???!! Planning on getting my engine rebuilt and would appreciate any input on modifications for a VP 44/NV5600 truck engine rebuild. I'm adding Hamilton cam, harmonic balancer, Cold Case radiator, BHAF, FASS 165 heated, fire ring head, custom injectors Anyone used a DPS Turbonator VGT (s300 & s400)?? Seem very cool, but a king's ransom. Have: Intake manifold plate PDI exhaust manifold 3 piece…

I ran across this thread and thought I'd move it along through the forums. Seems someone has found a way around the problem of no more existing OEM engine fans. Anyone still struggling to look for one may find his information helpful. http://www.dieselforums.com/showthread.php?p=14561&posted=1#post14561

So I finally got around to installing the 103lb springs and pushrods which went well started truck with no problems and runs well. But after sitting over night had to turn over quite a bit to get it to fire off. I think I must have a leak somewhere between vp and injectors but I can't see one. I used all new o-rings from DAP and new copper washers I was a little hesitant about the washers though b/c new ones were 1.5mm and old were 2 mm but guys at DAP said it should be fine. Any ideas where to start?

I am looking to replace my stock fuel filter on my 98 dodge it developed a leak around the heater pigtail harness grommet and I am getting not much help from local dealer one mechanic told me to drill it out and plug it not sure if that's wise any guidance would be appreciated am leaning more towards aftermarket I am thinking suggestions please

okay first an update on the clutch ....so far so good ..no problems out of the new south bend ..other than it seems a little more nosy than the old clutch ...kinda chattering ......still hard to go into third unless its double clutched.......i also am wondering if any one has heard of exhaust brakes being hard on the engine?....i know they help save service brake ...but if they wear the engine unnecessarily it doesnt seem worth it to me...finally (sorry)...how difficult is a p7100 pump change i had the pump gave to me for free