2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

The Problem: My head gasket seems to have sprung an external leak right under my thermostat. I've got a big trip coming up next month with a pregnant wife, a 4 year old, and a 7k trailer on mountain roads, so I've got to get this squared up, and done correctly (though not overkill). I'm very capable with a wrench, and have been through every facet of gassers over the last 20 years, so I'm not worried too much about tackling it (other than the 200lb weight of the head). As I move forward I have a couple of planning questions to ask. What tools will I need other than the basics (I've got a decently stocked roll away with the basics)? I don't mind spending up t…

I thought we could get a thread started over here where we could post pictures of our trucks for everyone to see. I know we can post them in the garage but I thought we could have a spot to throw up pictures so let's see them! Maybe if we get enough pictures being put up Mike will sticky it.

I replaced my turbo with this one. http://theturboplace.com/-S200GX-E-Dodge-Ram-Upgrade-Turbo--12769880001_p_290.html And replaced the manifold with a stock one. It had a crack in it at on the flange where the turbo mounts on. Now I'm getting a plume of white smoke upon acceleration. Have't tried driving it. The truck only has just over 100k miles on it. Fuel pressure is at 15 PSI at idle. Which is what it was before. I'm running Bosch RV 275 injectors which I put in in Oct 2018 I have no error codes. What should I look for next? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Have a late 02 ran 2500. Cummins automatic 4x4. Truck has a issue believed to be failed MAP sensor. Tried two different scan tools and neither connect to the Engine. I can communicate with PCM and watch data on the scanner. It wont let me communicate and watch data on the Engine side. I can check engine DTCs but once I hit DATA DISPLAY it says no communication. Have checked and all fuses, and wiring appears to be perfect based on a quick visual inspection. Have not pulled out the DMM yet to check. Engine starts, truck runs. OBDII has power. Anyone ran into this issue before?

1999 dodge 2500 Auto new batteries Grid heater deleted Everything else pretty much stock I replaced my alternator in preparation for getting my ECM rebuild. Installed my rebuilt alternator after they replaced the brushes, diodes and rectifier. Started the truck. No charge. Alternator got very hot. Went and got a brand new alternator.. Same thing.. I am looking for help!! Where to start trouble shooting. Hoping the PCM isn't fried too! I am headed to the store tomorrow to buy a new multimeter, mine broke recently, to check the green wire coming off the alternator. Im more worried there is a short somewhere in …

Where does the EJWA pick up the fuel temperature? I hadn't driven my truck for 2 days and went to start it up this morning. It was 32 degrees outside and the fuel temp was showing 41 degrees. After a few mins of idle and scraping the windows I started driving and the temp was showing 64 degrees. Is this read from the fuel in the VP44?

Is there an easy way to determine whether my 24v is included in the early model 24v engines where the dowel pin is an issue as referenced in the TDR article below: http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR57_KillerDowelPin.pdf

So i have a chance to pick up a s475 for a great price which may allow me to run compounds sooner than i thought. If i stick with the stock hx35 would the s475 be a good match or am i going to wish i went with something smaller? Anyway studs and injectors are getting installed this week but i have some turbo decisions to make. Option 1: Stick with the original plan and buy a s362 for now and compounds later down the road. ( if i go this route i would probably run a s472 as the larger turbo.) Option 2: Pick up the s475 and run it under the hx35 right away. Also does anyone know if the egt probe that comes with the Quadzilla i…

After I rebuilt my engine I lost the puke bottle and just left it off. I have what appears to be several little oil leaks under the engine and front axle and differential is wet also. Can the hose coming out of the crankcase be dripping enough that it blows everywhere and causes several leaks or could I have several leaks? Everything looks dry along the valve cover, head, and block.

Hey, guys. I've already converted my 12V truck to the 1-wire setup (technically, it's 2 wires, but w/e..) Started on the '01 today and realized quickly that the alternators are not the same LOL The internal regulator mod is pretty straight-forward, at least, on the dual-tab style alternators. But the plug-in connectors, the internals look way different. I've searched and searched to try and figure out where the field wire connectors inside the later style are, but to no avail. I only seem to find early 2G style, or or really old Mopar v-belt styles; neither do me any good.. Thoughts? I can grab a couple pics shortly.

Anyone happen to know what size plug and thread the fill plug on the NV4500 is?

So guys. Have loss of power steering fluid (none left) . So Im guessing I need to pull the vaccuum pump/PSP assy out and reseal etc. However when I was thinking about it - I realized I dont get how the whole system works ...... someone shed more light ? Some questions. 1) Most people replace for the oil leak that occurs for the oil feed line to the vacuum pump. I'm sure I probably have this also ..... but I'm talking about loss of PS fluid in resevoir. So ? Do the seal replacements generally take care of PS side leaks ? Dont want to pull the assay only to find PS leak is something else. 2) How does this tie into larger system…

Had a nasty belt squeal for a while. Kinda embarrassing to drive since it was louder than the engine itself. I could spray water on it and it would quiet down so I figured it's the belt. Bought the one in the picture from Rock Auto and the squeal is gone! Even the signature Cummins chirp on shutdown has gone away. Time will tell how it holds up. Just wanted to share for those fighting a squeal.

Looking at this problem appears to be a real pain to access in order to replace a simple gasket.I grew up doing my own repairs on gas engines, & don't know enough about diesels. I have learned from running out of fuel,how to bleed the system quickly. My main concern is do I have to remove the injection pump in order to do this, or is it possible to replace the gasket with the pump in place? Removing the pump scares me,because it went bad & was replaced 6 yrs.ago costing me $3,600 bucks! The shop replaced it but had to take it to a dodge dealer to time & calibrate it with the ecm,& that Cummins couldn't even do it cause Chrysler had changed the codes & …

I am the original owner of a 98.5 Dodge Cummins with 140,000 miles. Several months ago it started the 'gear hunt' symptoms. My local garage WAS a dodge dealer but lost the dealership back in the summer. They put a new APPS unit (from NAPA) on the truck but it did not solve the issue. I have the '1998-2002 Dodge 4th ger hunt fix" document from ATS Diesel; and a similar document from Sun Coast Diesel. Both of these documents focus on correcting potential grounding issues between the APPS and the ECM/PCM modules. After reading one of the threads here, I see that reprogramming fixed, at least one person's issue. I do not believe my truck has ever been reflashed or reprogramme…

Currently I have a mostly stock 2001 Dodge 2500 with an auto tranny (sadly). It has stock injectors (probably original) and a rebuilt hy35 turbo and 5 inch straight pipe exhaust. No stud, no major mods. Have a quadzilla tuner and running a pretty mild tune off it and im trying to go for lower egts. Eventually id like to make 350ish HP and thats about it. It tows regularly 3k to 14k constantly and and does pretty decent at it... Until egts start getting around 1200F. Im trying to find a common Proven setup that works for this application. I do plan on putting an exhaust brake on it at some point and would like to try to steer away from having 2 tur…

put new DAP injectors in last summer. Have been fighting High EGTs and black smoke since. Didn't think +50 injectors would cause this much trouble. MAP 48 when pulling hard. Is there ANYTHING in the VP44 that can make it overfuel with no codes?

Will get started on removing the drivelines today. Mopar I was looking at the manufacturers links on your web site and found Standard Transmission and Gear listed. Have you or anybody else here ever done business with them? Found a place out of Memphis called High Gear Transmission also. High Gear had this info THIS IS A STANDARD SHIFT TRANSMISSION, NV5600 6 SPEED, FOR THE DODGE 3500 SERIES DIESEL TRUCKS.WE HAVE THESE IN 2X4 AND 4X4. THESE UNITS ARE REBUILT, UPDATED AND DYNO TESTED. (MY DYNO TESTER COST $80,000. BEFORE YOU BUY A TRANSMISSION FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE, ASK IF THEY HAVE MADE THAT KIND OF INVESTMENT IN THEIR PRODUCTS.) ALL THIS MEANS THEY WILL WORK WELL FOR YO…

I own a 1998.5 24V 2500 long bed extra cab, with canopy. Pretty well stock powertrain. I installed a new HX35W turbo a couple of months ago. Currently running a Herko fuel lift pump that gives me18 psi at idle. Maintains 10 psi pulling a decent load up a hill. Today I installed an A-pillar gauge package. So far boost, lift pump pressure, and exhaust temp gauges are functioning. The transmission temp gauge, I'll hook up later. This January we purchased a 23 ft RV trailer. We've been getting it ready for camping season. Empty weight of the trailer is 4,950 lbs. Dual 3500 lb axles under it. I just installed new tires on the trailer and upsized them to a higher w…

Is there an overall consensus on tapping the vp? How does it affect longevity, etc.?