Jump to content

2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. So I installed the Raptor FRRP 2 days ago and installed the BHAF today I love the turbo whistle. I built my own tapped banjo bolt but all my fuel psi gauges only go to 15 psi and this pump pegged them to the 6 O'clock postion with the engine not running. Man I have learned alot of stuff on here already. Tomorrow I'm cutting out the convertor and muffler and straight piping it with 3" (for now anyways). I bought a new single billet convertor from a local convertor builder. I also picked up a new input seal and a filter kit and 13 liters of ATF+4. When I have the trans out I want to adjust the bands and clean out the solonoids (or a least the governor solonoid) Does a…

      • Like
    • 4 replies
    • 1.2k views
  2. Started by jlwelding,

    Some of yall may remember me posting about my truck just not running right. Biggest thing was no HP and lugging when letting out the clutch. No codes no exact anything really, so one day I had my friend come over with his scanner. We ran through all history and codes(this has been done no telling how many times and never caught it) and injector function when we finally noticed the inj pump voltage was 11.2 and we both not knowing for sure but thought this should be at least 12 volt. So I call Moparman and he said to change out fuse for inj pump, and there it was voltage jumped 12.6 truck noticeable running better. So we ohm the fuse because it looked fine, 0.002 to 0.0…

    • 3 replies
    • 1.2k views
  3. Started by Leaky88,

    Need an ECM repaired. I looked at Pepsi's Chart. Think I will pass on Auto Computer Specialist. So moving down the list, has anyone dealt with dieselsystemservices? If so, I'd like to hear about it. Thanks. Leaky

  4. Started by GSP7,

    I had my truck parked for 7 days under the covered shelter. Haven't started or drove it in a week. Been Raining for a week and off work. I just noticed a little wet spot stain on the concrete inside the driver front wheel this morning. Turns out the power steering pump leaked a little out the cap like it was over filled but it hasnt been. Started the truck and backed straight back and then noticed no power steering and no power brakes. Stopped got out , checked the reservoir and had oil in it and as the truck idled for a few minutes I could see the oil inside the pump start flowing and pump working. Got back in the truck and the power…

    • 5 replies
    • 1.2k views
  5. I am finally getting around to doing the relay fix for my 98.5 dodge. Don't have trouble in the winter but do in the summer. In the center under the hood in a loom of wires in front of the firewall, is the hot wire going to the lift pump in these. If so it isn't yellow/white. I'm trying to find an easy place to cut it to run the wires to the relay. I can't get my fat arms and fingers to work right at the lift pump. I am still running the stock type pump, the wires at the pump are way to short. Thanks

    • 0 replies
    • 1.2k views
  6. Started by cowtipper,

    I installed a Valair 400 horse organic clutch four weeeks ago. Love the clutch, but one thing is it still will not engage smoothly. I never had to start out in first with the stocker. But now if i dont the engagement is rough. Maybe i just dont know how to use it. I dont know but ive tried everything . Different ammounts of throttle etc. once i get it rolling it goes ok. But starting in second is rough and reverse is worse. How much longer to break it in? Sometimes i swear something is going to tear out of it.

    • 5 replies
    • 1.2k views
  7. Started by WiscoRedkneck,

    Saturday we went to the city to handle a side job started the truck in the morning no issues besides a belt squeak, get downtown no problem shut down at 09:00 truck sat until 13:00 when the job was complete. We went to start up and truck was very weak but started volt meter on dash showed in range but on low side sitting on the line after 2-3 seconds it bumped to over 14. Get home no issues, at this point I'm not thinking alternator since it's showing its charging and made the trip home. The shortened long story on this truck is it doesn't have it's original cab or any original sheet metal for that matter it was apart for years, has a 1/2 ton body with a 3/4 to…

      • Like
    • 6 replies
    • 1.2k views
  8. There's a guy selling a VP44 pump tester on a local classified site. He says it eliminates the ECM and wiring and will run the engine from the tester. He's only asking $150 for it. I'm wondering if it may come in handy one day. Could even use it to run an engine on a test stand.

    • 2 replies
    • 1.2k views
  9. Started by KBecker443,

    I’ve recently noticed that when my truck is at WOT the truck will shut down and I will have to crack a few injector lines and bleed air out of the lines. Has anybody else had this issue? It happened last night after I installed new 275hp injectors and did one hard pull and it shut dow, I pulled over and knew what todo from previous incidents. Is it possible I’m out running my VP44? Or the fass150 titanium can’t keep up?

    • 5 replies
    • 1.2k views
  10. Does synthetic fluid last longer/result in less wear extending life of a 47re auto Trans with oversize cooler and valve body/tc upgrades. What brand is good

      • Thanks
      • Like
    • 11 replies
    • 1.2k views
  11. Started by 02DodgeCummins,

    Before I installed a used Quadzilla Adrenaline I could get boost at around 1500 to 1700 rpm is when you could really notice it. After install and using a stock race or tow tune I have nothing until I’m over 2200 rpm. I like to shift at 2k with my 6 speed. The IQuad app is showing no boost. My pillar gauge says it’s there. My question is do I have to adjust the tune and how would I go about doing so?

  12. Started by elshadow001,

    Okay! as I was taking my nap today ( Yeah you will get to that point one day ) I was thinking about my post on the fender repair.One of the main things is because the fender is made of such cheap plastic -- I know most things seem to be that way now --- there is something that could be used to give more strength to the inside of a break.GOOP! Yup GOOP. If you haven't heard of it go buy a tube and make some expeirement with it.Example! A freind has a new nissan cube and he wanted to stick a GPS unit to his dash because the item that came with it would not stick to the plastic on his dash.So I mentioned GOOP and we got some. Man that stuff sticks to anything. I use it to a…

  13. Started by oldbeek,

    OK I am not a transmission mechanic. I was thinking of putting a TC lock up switch on my 2001 Dodge 47e ? trans to aid in down hill retard. Also thinking about moving an ex brake from my older dodge. Question: If the tc is in lock up, isn't it locked in all gears. Will it lock in 2nd if the speed is kept with in the 2nd gear range? 22 to 35mph? Also heard of hooking switch with a 33ohm, 1/2 watt resistor and leaving the relay in tact for near normal operation except hills. Input would really be appreciated.

    • 4 replies
    • 1.2k views
  14. Started by JPENNER79,

    Hello I’m wondering if you can help me out. I have a 2002 Dodge Cummins 24V. Cold start issue. I checked fuel pressure going into injection pump and I'm at 16psi. Wide open throttle it drops to 11psi. So all good there right. What the issue is at -10 celcius it won't start but if I plug in and leave over night it starts no problem. My intake heater is working as the intake elbow is really warm. So it's a cold thing. When I tried starting at -10c without being plugged in I cracked fuel lines at injectors and no fuel would come out. But... next day when I plugged in she started right up no issues. Seems like when the eng block is warm it seems to hold prime but when it's co…

    • 10 replies
    • 1.2k views
  15. Started by beee,

    I have a 98.5 24v cummins 5speed, It has a cracked block and a bad lift pump, probably bad IP, so I would like to do a 12v swap. To have a fully functioning truck, cruise, check engine light, stock gauges, etc what are my options? 1. I have read that I need a 98 pcm, but wouldn't there be more then one part number for 98 pcms? I could see there being different ones for: (auto/manual), (cruise/no cruise), (California, non cali emissions) (air conditioning/ or no a/c). Is there a part number list? Am I wrong is it much simpler? 2. What about a 97 pcm, would it not communicate with the other computers and instrument cluster? 3. Which harnesses do I need? I read I need fire…

    • 2 replies
    • 1.2k views
  16. Started by wil440,

    I've just come across a pair of exhaust brakes, just the actuators no controllers, from pictures and measurements they look to be 3 1/2" ID on a 4 1/2" V band both straight not angled Both are off of a Daf cf55 which has the 5.9 cummins fitted but the pre 24v, I'm assuming my downpipe is stock but have't measured it yet hope they are the correct size, bigger than stock I'll be ok, smaller than stock and I'll sell them on to the landrover/cummins conversion boys Whats the easiest way to operate one without spending huge amounts ?

  17. Started by Explosives87,

    I have the older style of high idle kit and the other day that I was diving and got a p0113 code. Pulled the code and found out that it was the IAT temp voltage was to high. I tired with two different code readers and couldn't clear the code. I pulled my high idle kit off and plugged the factory harness back into the sensor and was able to clear the code and have gotten the code back. Is there anyway that I would be able check to see if I have a short of some sort in my wiring or check the switches? Also from time to time I would select the 6 cylinder and then it would switch over to the 3 cylinder high idle with out me selecting it. Would like to have my high idle back u…

    • 4 replies
    • 1.2k views
  18. Started by Cummins2001,

    I was looking at getting an exhaust brake and was pretty disopointed at the cost to get one. Has anyone ever tried making a homemade one with success? I run a auto and I was thinking can I just use the pull cable style to engauge and disengauge the brake? Sceems like that would be eaiser if you remember to disengauge it. I have already got the TC lockup switch. If anyone has done this maby you could share your blue prints on how you did so and what parts you bought. Thanks Tim

    • 1 reply
    • 1.2k views
  19. Started by Rogan,

    So, we all know about the he351, s300, etc., for 'replacement/upgrade'.. But I have a friend here locally, that asked me if I'd like to buy his turbo. He was working on a project drift-car, but has not been able to move forward, and now needs a little cash for something.. He's got an Innovative Turbo Systems (ITS) GT72R-DBB (dual BB) Compressor Wheel: Aerospace aluminum material 72mm inducer Turbine Wheel: 713C inconel material 82mm exducer A/R Options: 1.10 T4 divided 4" V band, non-gated Whatcha think (JohnFAK, AH64, etc) and anyone else that would like to chime in…

    • 3 replies
    • 1.2k views
  20. Started by rburks,

    Whats the TORQUE SPEC for the 10mm sinle bolt that holds the rocker on the cradle???

      • Like
    • 1 reply
    • 1.2k views